Aftermarket fog lights and fuse question

criticman

Member
Sep 7, 2003
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Rome, GA
I installed aftermarket fog lights yesterday - very happy.

One issue though. The switch calls for running a wire to the fuse for the parking lights. This is fuse "4" on the car and I tried putting the wire to both sides of the fuse. Same issue - the switch light (red/green for on/off) stays on even with the parking lights off (not to mention keys out of car).

So, is there something I am missing? I assumed the fuse would be "switched" in that it wouldn't continuously send power to the fog light switch unless the parking lights were on. Any help would be appreciated.
 
You would want to tap into the parking light's brown wire under the dash (use your meter - there are a couple brown wires). Or tap into it at the headlight switch, etc.

I chose to have mine be key-on hot only. You can use an Key-on hot source or trigger (if using a relay, which I highly recommend).

Good luck.
 
This is one of my first electrical endeavors....

What would qualify as a "key on hot source" ? Finding that would also be great for redoing the hardwiring of my radar detector. Right now it is into the vanity mirror light, but I would love it to go on and off with the turn of the keys instead.

Thanks.
 
criticman said:
Yeah, that's what I figured. So in other words, splicing to something like the A/C power switch, the radio, etc...those would be Key On Hot? If so, what is the easiest to splice into.


Under the dash at the steering column there are two wires you can use. Just make sure to use a fuse, and you will be safe.

Red with a green stripe - Works with key on this is you vehicle ignition wire. It can take a pretty good load. 20+ amps if I am not mistaken.

gray with a yellow stripe - this is your accessory wire. Also only works with the key on. I don't know how a fox key cylinder works. If you can turn your key back to activate accessories, it would be this wire. If you can't, either will do.

They should be found running along the steering column. They will be right next to each other along with a yellow wire, and a red/blue or white/pink wire.

Hope thats what you needed.
 
Shane is right. The wires you desire are bigger AWG than about anything else under the column. On my 88, the ignition wires (key-on hot) were right at the bottom of the cluster of wires in the harness at the bottom of the column. Dont quote me, but the one I used was like 10 gauge and stood out amongst numerically-larger-gauge wires.

One really needs to use a meter and consider the circuit being used. If it were me, I would use a relay (sorry if I missed whether you were using one or not). Otherwise, you can overload an existing circuit with 15 amp+ fog lights pretty easy. The relay sources power from the battery and then the wire you tap into as a key-on source only has to supply enough juice to energize the relay's coil (typical SPDT relay uses like under 200 mA as I recall [Shane will know for sure!]).

If you used your factory fog light harness (all foxes should have fog light wiring even if they did not have factory fogs, a la LX's or notches). If you did that, you can even grab the stock fog light feed (it is in the driver side engine harness which goes down past the solenoid and under the battery tray) and have your relay right there. Weatherproof the relay and connections. Your wiring connections will be VERY easily done at that location.

If you are using a relay, you can really choose almost anything you want that is key-on hot. Otherwise, pick your circuit VERY carefully.

Good luck.
 
EDIT: I didn't use the stock wiring (I do realize even though is an LX it it there as on a GT) because it would require buying the lights, the in car headlight/foglight switch from a GT, plus upgraded wiring and fuses to correct the fuse blowing issue with the stock foglight/headlight issue that I have seen documented several places, including this forum. I got these lights for $45 shipped on eBay with all wiring from a reputable seller - way less than new GT lights and the other necessary components.​

Here is a general wiring setup:

Each fog light has a ground to the chasis and a power wire.
The power wires go to a relay.
Relay goes several places:
-Ground
-Battery positive (fuse between battery and the relay)
-The on/off switch in the car
The on/off switch in the car goes several places:
-Chasis ground
-To the relay
-Power wire (solely for lighting a red and green LED light in the switch - VERY low power consumption) - instructions said to go to the parking light fuse - but as discussed, that is an "always on" fuse.

So as far as using a relay and having a fuse on the high power drawing source (the lights), I have that covered. I guess I will now just use the wires you guys mentioned under the dash (probably the ignition wire) to run the yellow wire to. If not, I may just run it to the radio power wire as I have been back in there several times before.

Thanks for the help.
 
Thanks for all that. It makes more sense now.

Your relay will also have an output to the lights.

You can use just about anything you want to power the switch since you have the relay. Pick a Key-on hot wire of your choice (the relay draw and switch's light should draw about nada).

If you want to run the lights so they function like the parking lights do, you can use the parking light terminal on the back of the headlight switch as a source (Be sure to use a meter or test light, since the dimmer wire will act the same, except that your test light will dim when you probe the dimmer wire and run the dimmer down).

You can grab half the fuses in the fuse box for a key-on hot feed though (HVAC motor, wipers, etc are often key-on hot only). That is a real easy way to source power and the fuse box is likely in the vicinity of your switch (perhaps, maybe. LOL).

Good luck.
 
GOOD CALL JT - I just assumed all fog light kits came with a relay, and he was looking for a ignition only input.(thats what I get for assuming ehh)

And yes, either one of those wires will work just fine if you are looking for an input for a relay. They will bith still allow for ignition only operation.

Hope all goes well..........
 
Gotta love the forums....

Yeah, I should've posted the in depth info in the original post. Sorry. I think I will do the suggested method of using the fuse box that has a Key On setup such as the wipers or HVAC as mentioned. I think I may just go do that now in fact...darkness and rain don't stop me...nor does that "Severe Weather Alert" that just popped up in the lower right hand corner.

Thanks.
 
AWESOME!

Well, with the rain drizzling down on my leg, I got up under the dash once again. I was aiming for fuse 9, 6, or 11. I was unable to pry them out by hand, so I turned to fuse 13 (5 amp instrument illumination). Now the fog lights switch only works when either parking lights or headlights/brights are on - just as it should be. This also means the switch is only illuminated when the lights are on.

THANKS for the help guys! Time to dry off and get some sleep.
 
Nice work! I offer one word of caution. Fuse 13 is the dimmer fuse. If you put a test light on it and run the dimmer up and down, the test light will dim.

When it is dry out and light, you might want to choose to use another fuse. You can use a plastic fuse puller (parts store; comes with some packs of fuses) or even wrap a pair of small needlenose plier's jaws in electrical tape and use that for pulling the fuse.
Of your choices listed, fuse 9 would be my choice.

Sorry for that. But I figured it was worth pointing out. Pat yourself on the back for a good install. :nice: