Electrical Alternator (91 Mustang GT & 89 Lincoln Mark VII)

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Jhp84

Member
Mar 2, 2019
69
11
18
california
The verdict is in....the Mustang did NOT pass emissions.

Told the idle was borderline high, just under 1,000 RPM. And, the NOx levels were too high.

Below are the readings for the different test points:
At 15 mph, it measured 1348 RPM. Emission levels were
--HC (PPM) : Actual 40 (max allowed 85)
--CO (%) : Actual 0.01 (max allowed 0.54)
--NO (PPM) : Actual 838 (max allowed 629)


At 25 mph, it measured 1158 RPM. Emission levels were
--HC (PPM) : Actual 30 (max allowed 67)
--CO (%) : Actual 0.01 (max allowed 0.45)
--NO (PPM) : Actual 785 (max allowed 686)

So, it looks like it failed because NOx were too high and the idle rpm were accelerated.
The technician suggested I look into vacuum leaks to lower the idle RPM, or possibly retarding the timing.

Looks like we have bit more reading to do to figure out the issue here.

Jhp & son (slightly disappointed)
 

Mustang5L5

Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
31,002
7,360
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Massachusetts
Drop idle via the "baseline idle reset procedure" should be easy fix.

As for high nox, could be a few things. Verify the egr function. Set baseline timing to 10 degrees. Could also be bad/aged o2 sensors. Might be worth a pair of new motorcraft sensors.
 

Jhp84

Member
Mar 2, 2019
69
11
18
california
Drop idle via the "baseline idle reset procedure" should be easy fix.

As for high nox, could be a few things. Verify the egr function. Set baseline timing to 10 degrees. Could also be bad/aged o2 sensors. Might be worth a pair of new motorcraft sensors.
Finally got some time to get back to working on the car. Changed the O2 sensors, and did a homemade smoke test to see where the vacuum leaks were coming from. Turned out that the gasket between the EGR spacer and throttle body was faulty. Went ahead and replaced the gasket, and followed recommended procedure for the base idle reset. Car is running like a charm. Will take it Monday to get it smogged again.

Also, decided to do something about the damaged radiator support, especially since it seems that the passenger front side is pushed in a tad. Went to the junkyard to see what we could find. Came across a 93 five-oh and removed the apron and support. Took a while because the sawzall broke down and we scavenged for anything to keep on the job (see picture). Passerbys were a tad shocked, but my son was determined to bring it home. Glad he didn't give, even after a long while.

Now we need to figure how best to proceed. After the car passes smog, we will likely remove the fenders and see if the lower frame is straight enough to use as is or if we need to replace. If the former, we may end up removing the spot welds on the car (and replacement piece) and drop in the aprons and radiator support and weld together. If it is damaged, we will need to figure out where we cut the frame to attach the replacement.

Either one will likely take us a bit of time. Any suggestions?

Jhp & son
 

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Jhp84

Member
Mar 2, 2019
69
11
18
california
The verdict is in....the Mustang did NOT pass emissions.

Told the idle was borderline high, just under 1,000 RPM. And, the NOx levels were too high.

Below are the readings for the different test points:
At 15 mph, it measured 1348 RPM. Emission levels were
--HC (PPM) : Actual 40 (max allowed 85)
--CO (%) : Actual 0.01 (max allowed 0.54)
--NO (PPM) : Actual 838 (max allowed 629)


At 25 mph, it measured 1158 RPM. Emission levels were
--HC (PPM) : Actual 30 (max allowed 67)
--CO (%) : Actual 0.01 (max allowed 0.45)
--NO (PPM) : Actual 785 (max allowed 686)

So, it looks like it failed because NOx were too high and the idle rpm were accelerated.
The technician suggested I look into vacuum leaks to lower the idle RPM, or possibly retarding the timing.

Looks like we have bit more reading to do to figure out the issue here.

Jhp & son (slightly disappointed)
Drop idle via the "baseline idle reset procedure" should be easy fix.

As for high nox, could be a few things. Verify the egr function. Set baseline timing to 10 degrees. Could also be bad/aged o2 sensors. Might be worth a pair of new motorcraft sensors.
You guys are brilliant and your advice stellar. My son and I followed the recommendations and got results.

Car passed smog test yesterday. Here are the numbers from the test:

At 15 mph, it measured 1323 RPM. NOx emission levels (PPM) :
Actual 484 (max allowed 629)

At 25 mph, it measured 1129 RPM. NOx emission levels (PPM) :
Actual 391 (max allowed 686)

I will try to post a picture of the project car shortly. Need to track down the passenger window switch so we can open the windows. It gets hot inside with the windows up.
 

Jhp84

Member
Mar 2, 2019
69
11
18
california
Motorcraft sw7062 is the part number for a window switch.

Don't bother with the aftermarkets...they suck.
Well, we tracked the problem to the power window motor. The brushes have fallen off the copper wires. I have searched far and wide for replacement brushes. Only ones I can find are attached to the copper wire on the bottom. However, the ones on the motor were attached on the side. The spring was underneath the brush, and the copper wire was connected perpendicular to the travel of the brush.

Anyone have a recommendation for a source for brushes? If so, would you know the dimensions?

Tempted to modify the brush in the picture so that the copper lead is coming to the side, but this would result in a small brush height (which would mean short life-span) for the brushes. I know they are carbon and can be shaved down.

Is there a preferred method for connecting the copper lead to the carbon brush? I don't know if a soldering iron would get hot enough to heat up the carbon to bind with the solder.

Thx, Jhp & son
 

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