Anyone with Mech. Gauges under the Radio or in a clock pod?

[mytight95]

Well hello all. lol

Ok here is the deal, i have mech. water temp, and mech oil pressure gauges, however the lines, and the sender for the water temp, arent long enough to go around the fender through the door area etc....(would only make it to pillar) So my question is this. Whoever who has put mech. gauges in either the clock pod or a pod under the radio, where did you run the sender and pressure line through?



I think i am gonna take a unibit, drill a hole in the firewall tomm. beside where the throttle cable comes through so that i can feed the lines through there and still have enough slack to put them where i want them. I have a panel that was made to go under the radio...and that is where I WANT them. so anyone who can help with this would be greatly appreciated.


any other solutions are welcome....



thanks

Jason

 

[blk9450]

thats probably the best idea

 

[RIO5.0]

Uni-Bit sounds best...I ran my water thru the clutch grommet and had plenty of excess line and that was from the steering column pod...
The oil has like 6' of line so that shouldn't be an issue...if your running the line in the kit that is...???

 

[mytight95]

yup just as everything came....i hadn't thought about the clutch grommet, i will check that out...... Andy you really oughta see a set of those heads in person...

It is almost all the way back together...


jason

 

[RIO5.0]

No I don't wanna see those heads... I'm saving for a bike dammnit....

I have the money to do a nice set of Alums and custom cam....Its burning a freakin hole in my pockets...

Check out that grommet...You may be surprised on how much lenght you have on the thermo-coupler for the water...I have a good 18" extra tucked around to hide it...

 

[a_k]

Yeah I have a mechanical water and oil then a voltmeter and I ran both lines through the rubber grommet already there to the bottom right of the master cylinder if I remember right and everything reached no prob./ and just cause i had a pic.

 

[mytight95]

No I don't wanna see those heads... I'm saving for a bike dammnit....

I have the money to do a nice set of Alums and custom cam....Its burning a freakin hole in my pockets...

Check out that grommet...You may be surprised on how much lenght you have on the thermo-coupler for the water...I have a good 18" extra tucked around to hide it...

when i took them to the machine shop just for a double check.....lol the guy said, the deck on these things are overkill, i don't think they could be warped if you wanted them to be....lol

yeah the cam will go in the new 306.....that'll be in the car before next spring.... one step at a time, that way i don't have to rack up credit card bills...... took me 6 months to stick back enough for the heads...I will check out that grommet.... would keep me from having to drill a hole in the firewall.

 

[mytight95]

Yeah I have a mechanical water and oil then a voltmeter and I ran both lines through the rubber grommet already there to the bottom right of the master cylinder if I remember right and everything reached no prob./ and just cause i had a pic.
]

yeah i am gonna give that a look over tomm.... it also helps that i can locate the sensor for the water temp in the rear of the intake, and leave th factory sensor in the front. that'll give me another foot.....


thanks for the help guys..


jason

 

[HISSIN50]

Jason, I dont know how your heads flow, but if the coolant delivery is like it is on stock heads and intake, the rear port isnt terribly accurate.

I had a 6' capillary tube and barely made it to the bottom pillar gauge pod (from the stock sender location). I feel your pain.

Good luck bud.

 

[mytight95]

well i hadn't thought of that.... dammmmit I keep hitting walls instead of getting around them....lol

i will do what i can tommorrow.. And yes i believe it is a 6' one.... but it should be more of a direct shot from the grommets there or a new hole than to a pillar pod right? i am not sure of this, but i mocked it up running it there by going to the fender and up the doorsil etc. and it would just barely fit if i decide to do that...


jason

 

[HISSIN50]

well i hadn't thought of that.... dammmmit I keep hitting walls instead of getting around them....lol

i will do what i can tommorrow.. And yes i believe it is a 6' one.... but it should be more of a direct shot from the grommets there or a new hole than to a pillar pod right? i am not sure of this, but i mocked it up running it there by going to the fender and up the doorsil etc. and it would just barely fit if i decide to do that...


jason

Like I said, I dont know how your set up is - that info about the rear port was just generic E7 and HO lower intake info.

I also used the clutch hole and still barely made it to the pod, but I had to snake the line to the hood release (basically), then up behind the weatherstripping, and up into the pillar. I got it all ran and was an RCH short to reaching the stock location on the lower intake (I originally had my temp gauge in the middle pod. At the lower pod, it made it). I learned from this to use a piece of string or thin gauge (like 18 AWG) electrical wire, cut to the same length as the capillary tube, as a test line of sorts. I run that wire to my two end points and see how it works. It's easier than snaking cap tubing all over everywhere.

As I try to visualize the routing, it does seem like the radio is a shorter shot. Seems to me that it dont matter what I think (though I think you will be fine) since Andy and AK said it is good to go.

FWIW, I put the stock sender in the t-stat and that worked fine (the stock sender location is the best, so I put the good gauge there).

 

[mytight95]

In the edelbrock that rear port is blocked off by a plug, seems that the temp would be consistent everywhere in the coolant, i mean it still will transfer heat equally right?

I don't know any of the above for certain, this is all hypothetical.......lmao

jason