I am going to do the 3g swap on my 1991 5.0. I have read that people reuse the black and orange wires on the 3g Alt. I have also read that people say do not use them because it could cause a fire or other damage. Has anyone had a fire or know of an alternative route to bypass these wires and put all new wires on it. Can I put a fuse on the black and orange wires to keep it from causing a fire? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks
Anyone with problems doing the 3G swap with stock wiring?
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The stock wires are rated for about 60 amps of continuous current. A 3G utilized under a full electrical load will make those wires poop themselves. And the stock fusible links are not guaranteed to melt before the wires themselves catch on fire. Not good.
The solution is to run a new charge cable - most use 4 AWG. And because this is ample, there's no need to keep the stock wires connected at the alternator side - they'd be redundant and also a point of risk.
If not wanting to make a charge cable, see Fordfuelinjection's selection of cable and modified regulator plugs (04 Sleeper can provide first hand experience about using those products).
To make your own cable, Jrichker has a parts list that works very well. Anthony (Glowstang) has also posted detailed info about making a charge cable (he might have done his with all locally sourced parts, if that helps).
If you want a short but very accurate synopsis of the retrofit, See Jrichker's:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showpost.php?p=5241158&postcount=9
Of course, there are a zillion write-ups out there - all tailored a little bit for personal preference. Joe really hit things nicely and in a real understandable way, I think.
Good luck.
The solution is to run a new charge cable - most use 4 AWG. And because this is ample, there's no need to keep the stock wires connected at the alternator side - they'd be redundant and also a point of risk.
If not wanting to make a charge cable, see Fordfuelinjection's selection of cable and modified regulator plugs (04 Sleeper can provide first hand experience about using those products).
To make your own cable, Jrichker has a parts list that works very well. Anthony (Glowstang) has also posted detailed info about making a charge cable (he might have done his with all locally sourced parts, if that helps).
If you want a short but very accurate synopsis of the retrofit, See Jrichker's:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showpost.php?p=5241158&postcount=9
Of course, there are a zillion write-ups out there - all tailored a little bit for personal preference. Joe really hit things nicely and in a real understandable way, I think.
Good luck.
Wiring
His article says do not use the two black and orang wires. Other articles say to use them. Why would you need them? Do they serve a purpose? My main concern is engine fires. So acording to the above article, do not use the black and orange wires. Just use the white and black and the plug for the 3g. Is this correct? Thanks Travis
His article says do not use the two black and orang wires. Other articles say to use them. Why would you need them? Do they serve a purpose? My main concern is engine fires. So acording to the above article, do not use the black and orange wires. Just use the white and black and the plug for the 3g. Is this correct? Thanks Travis
You got it - do not use those two stock charge wires at the alternator side of things. I have to think that some articles say it's okay to keep them because it was easy, and you DO have to keep them connected at the starter solenoid (or pull the sense-wire out of the stock harness so you can remove the stock charge cables altogether). It's generally easier to leave the stock cables attached to the solenoid and just insulate the other (alternator) end of those wires since they're still quite hot.
From the OEM connector with the two charge wires in it, you use the stator wire, like you said. It's that simple.
Back to the stock charge wires: If someone left them connected (along with a new 4 AWG cable), and something happened to the 4 AWG cable (a terminal at the fuse comes loose, etc etc), all the current will try to go through the stock charge cables. If the fusible links don't blow, that's a fire. But if those stock charge cables are not connected (as Joe wrote), then If something happens to the 4 AWG cable, the alternator's charge simply cant make it to the battery. Much less chance of a fire.
That's my take anyhow, and why I wired mine as I did.
Good luck bud.
From the OEM connector with the two charge wires in it, you use the stator wire, like you said. It's that simple.
Back to the stock charge wires: If someone left them connected (along with a new 4 AWG cable), and something happened to the 4 AWG cable (a terminal at the fuse comes loose, etc etc), all the current will try to go through the stock charge cables. If the fusible links don't blow, that's a fire. But if those stock charge cables are not connected (as Joe wrote), then If something happens to the 4 AWG cable, the alternator's charge simply cant make it to the battery. Much less chance of a fire.
That's my take anyhow, and why I wired mine as I did.
Good luck bud.
tbovee
Member
at the top under "useful technical threads" theres also a good write up on the conversion. Don't forget to upgrade a ground from the block to the frame.
DucatiRdr
New Member
I bought my 3G alternator from PA Performance along with a charge wire kit and the instructions to the alternator say to re-use the OEM charge wires. PA goes as far as to provide crimp terminals to allow use of the OEM wires on the 3G alternator in addition to their upgrade wire.
Of course, I have little knowledge of the actual limitations of these things but would guess PA does and wouldn't make their recommendations blindly - you know, with the pool of liability lawyers always circling and all...
Of course, I have little knowledge of the actual limitations of these things but would guess PA does and wouldn't make their recommendations blindly - you know, with the pool of liability lawyers always circling and all...
Follow HISSIN50's advice and you will save yourself a lot of grief. Don't ponder is the moon really round, do the wires have a possibility of catching fire, just do it. You'll be glad you did.
Electrical ignorance is rampant in the automotive world. That goes for a lot of bolt on companies, and car magazines as well as hobbyists. Electrical fires tend to be very messy and expensive. An electrical fire next to the pressurized fuel injector lines is especially scary. If the 4 gauge power feed line fails, the 130 amps will fry the 60 amp feed wires faster than you can say jack rabbit. Want to bet that the fuse links will open up before any damage is done? I don't, and I have spent a lot of time wiring everything from aircraft to automobiles to computer installations.
Electrical ignorance is rampant in the automotive world. That goes for a lot of bolt on companies, and car magazines as well as hobbyists. Electrical fires tend to be very messy and expensive. An electrical fire next to the pressurized fuel injector lines is especially scary. If the 4 gauge power feed line fails, the 130 amps will fry the 60 amp feed wires faster than you can say jack rabbit. Want to bet that the fuse links will open up before any damage is done? I don't, and I have spent a lot of time wiring everything from aircraft to automobiles to computer installations.
bigcahoona
Member
I installed a PA 3G 95 amp with the kit. How safe is that compared to a 130 amp upgrade ? I kept the stock wiring and installed the kit. Had it that way all summer.
Should I rewire it ?
Should I rewire it ?
Snikt89GT
New Member
I would. I have the same kit and I used the 4ga wire in addition to the stock wiring per the instructions.
I'd agree with Snikt.
See the opening line of Post 2. I'm fairly confident that my calculation was right in the ballpark (of accuracy).
bigcahoona
Member
I guess what i'm trying to find out is since i bought the 4g wire upgrade kit (with the fuse in it) from PA and i have that installed, should i go back to the alternator and disconnect the black/orange wires and cap them off and leave the others connect the way they are and i'm set. Or should i start this all over again. I will install a 4g ground from the block. That sounds good. Sorry to seem so dumb about this but i'm all hooked up already. Thank's
Smokin's got ya. For simplicity, I'd just disco' the two blk/or wires at the alt's charge stud and insulate the wires properly; find an out of the way home for them.
I twisted the black/orange wires together and put a marette (sp?)on them and then taped that back up into the harness so it is there out of the way and hidden, but not connected to anything. Everything else you have is fine except you need to upgrade to a 4ga or bigger ground. The electrical system can only flow as much as the weakest link will allow, and the stock firewall strap wont allow anywhere near what your 4ga +power cable will so you wont be getting full performance out of your alternator. Keep the ground strap and add the 4ga. You can never have too many grounds.
Hi, you can buy a 3G upgrade kit. Instructions, all the parts: Alternator, fuse, fuse holder, all required wiring. THe hole works. Tells you how to grind the Alt bracket. Or you can do what im doing and you can purchase a 6G upgrade. Its like the 3G only better. And its alot easyer to install. It doesn't require grinding of the alt bracket. It just slides right in, and the new wiring and fuse and your done. Very simple and better then the 3G. What do you plan on running? sound system, electric fans, underdrive pulleys?
Ive been running the 6G for a little over 2 years now. 130A, its a great alternator.
A quick question for ya, I bought mine off of ebay, and if it ever went south I dont know where to get a replacement. What Vehicles come with the 6G with the clocking of the housing that our cars need? Or is there a place that actually sells them?
Jaswir
Member
the owner before me did the swap and just used the stock wires on 3G alt 130amps... i drove the car for a year before i noticed it... lets just say the wires were melted pretty bad! i got lucky!
i wish i would of checked earlyer! i do not recommand running stock wires! spend the 25 bucks on a 4ga power wire and fuse!
i wish i would of checked earlyer! i do not recommand running stock wires! spend the 25 bucks on a 4ga power wire and fuse!
Hey smokin91', 1991's rock dont they? ha. But about your question. I've researched all about he 6G upgrade and i have mine purchased and im hoping it'll be here before xmas so i can install it before i gotta go back to work. But assuming your alt **** out on yah. Which if you dont have a knock off they shouldn't, but you never know. You could pick one of on ebay for about a $100.00. But originally fords latest 6G alternators came on 1998 and up. They run cooler and weigh less then the 3G. So you could probably buy one from Ford. Or a junk yard. I personally only buy Ford Parts. No auto zone parts. Remember, anything cheap is cheaply made. Hope i helped yah out, let me know if you got any questions.
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