Anyone with upgraded front and stock rear brakes?

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Jun 14, 2004
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Acworth, GA
I have Aerospace front brakes, and stock rear brakes on my car with a manual master cylinder. My rear brakes are not working as well as they should. I talked to Aerospace, and they want me to spend $700 for a new rear brake kit at the expense of my ABS and parking brake. They are also simultaneously telling me that the rear brakes aren't important, which discredits their opinion suggesting that I need to upgrade them. Anyone else have a similiar problem? Has anyone been able to fix this with a brake proportioning valve, or have any other suggestions?

Kurt
 
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I have the '98 Cobra 13" front brake kit with stock brakes at the rear and the stock MC. No problems whatsoever and the Cobra front brakes are light years ahead of the stockers.
I think Aerospace are telling you a load of BS. It sounds to me like you need more bias towards the rear brakes and a proportioning valve should achieve that. If you still have the stocker, maybe replacing it with the Cobra unit would work.
 
Actually, I removed the stock proportioning valve. Suposedly the master cylinder is self proportioning, which I don't agree with. It's the same master cylinder that they use on a Mustang with drum brakes, and drum brakes take almost no fluid at all to actuate.

I have to disagree about the Cobra brakes. I'm not a fan. The front calipers are hard to change pads on, and there are no lubricated sliders. It's also still a floating caliper. The Cobra brake system is actually less advanced than the GT brakes.

Kurt
 
When I had my Mercury Sable and was running 13" cobras in the front and a 11.6" vented setup in the rear versus my old 10.9' non-vented. It worked really well and flawlessly. Although, I wanted some more braking power in the rear. I used a Bias Plug -- Sold at SHOSource.com. It would basically add more pressure to the rear brakes. Now beware, changing the proportioning of the pressure can cause you to skid in panic stop events. I would ONLY recommend this modification to a vehicle equipped with a minimum of ABS in case of a wheel lock up stop.
 
When I had my Mercury Sable and was running 13" cobras in the front and a 11.6" vented setup in the rear versus my old 10.9' non-vented. It worked really well and flawlessly. Although, I wanted some more braking power in the rear. I used a Bias Plug -- Sold at SHOSource.com. It would basically add more pressure to the rear brakes. Now beware, changing the proportioning of the pressure can cause you to skid in panic stop events. I would ONLY recommend this modification to a vehicle equipped with a minimum of ABS in case of a wheel lock up stop.

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. My car has ABS, so that should help. I'm thinking of getting this proportioning valve. It's about the 5th item down.

http://www.aerospacecomponents.com/...ent&view=category&layout=blog&id=23&Itemid=63

Kurt
 
I was also considering an adjustable prop valve to put more bias to the rear. I'm still running stock gear on all 4 corners, with new disks and pads on the rear. I'm really disappointed with the ineffectiveness of the rear brakes, but I don't see a need to upgrade to better braking hardware, since it doesn't seem that the stock gear is actually getting used much! That led me to the idea of an adjustable prop valve, so I can dial in the rear bias that I want.

I'll probably add that in the spring, when I upgrade the front brakes (they need replacing anyway).

Sounds like Aerospace is pumping air up your skirt about the rear kit, IMHO.
 
IMG_4324.jpg


mounted in an ash try location of a probe we did.
 
How do you go about setting these kurt?

Not really sure. I bet I could find instructions on the internet. I'm actually going to put it off for now. I scuffed the rear pads like the guy at Aerospace said, and it started working a lot better. The guy operating the dyno just wasn't used to manual brakes I guess.

Kurt