Are the GT40s worth it?

I guess it could be said that you can gasket match both the intake and heads to the same gasket before hand but... It is super critical at that point that you make sure everything lines up. The heads, gaskets and intake, perfectly upon assembly. Since you've machined all of the ports to a universal size there is probably very little room for error in the port alignments. But due to the way FI manifolds are designed you're going to need an inspection scope to do it.

The reason you can't just bolt it down and go with gasket matching is simple. Although all of the metal parts involved are designed to the same specs there will always be small differences due to things like core shift and manufacturing tolerances. No 2 blocks, heads or intakes are exactly the same. It's the same reason everybody here screams that you must check clearances when you put a new cam in. Intake runners are no different. The alignments vary from engine to engine.

There is also a certain amount of play when you bolt the intake down. There are no alignment dowels for the intake like there are for the heads. The manifold can rock asmall amount from side to side and forward and backward. Add in the differences in intake gasket thicknesses and you can easily imagine where the ports probably won't even come close to lining up perfectly when you bolt that intake down.

Even with an inspection scope the issues aren't over. You may need to try a different gasket to raise or drop the intake a bit. You may need to mill the intake. You may find that the block is a little off and one head is a little out of line. At that point you'd be screwed into doing a proper port alignment.

The alternative is just to make sure the intake ports are smaller than the head ports. That way unless there is a gross misalignment you know that there won't be any head port material hanging down into the flow of air. You also want to make sure you use a larger gasket port too so even if it moves around during the bolt down it won't block the ports.
 
So, you're saying forget the gasket altogether. What's most important is simply making sure that the intake ports match the head ports...period...gotcha.

No! The most important thing is to make sure the intake flow doesn't hit a lip when it transitions from the intake to the head. Unless you use an inspection scope there is no way to insure this when you gasket match the ports. You want the intake ports smaller than the head ports.
 
Use this site. It has good info on porting gt40p heads. This is the guide I used. I didnt really go as indepth as this guy did, but like I said before I just grinded down the valve guides and unshrouded the intake valve a little. I spent most of my time in the exhaust side though.
Intake:Ford GT40P Intake Port
Exhaust:Porting GT40P Exhaust Port

This is the part I focused on when doing my heads. Its not the best job in the world but I just tried to smooth everything out, I didnt hog anything out, I didnt gasket match, I didnt touch the intake port, and I barely touched the actual size exhaust port opening.

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what I did

I got the manifold, and the heads from the explorer.

I got the cleaned(cooked, blasted, rocked)

I got bigger valves(2.02, 1.60)

KEEP THE ROCKERS!! the explorer rockers are 1.6, instead of the stock 1.58

we swapped out the springs for sbc, dual springs, we had to modify the heads, theres a pic on there

resurfaced the heads

drilled into ONE exhaust port for the thermactor air(smog pump) the the CA mustangs had

I had to tap the #5 runner for the ACT sensor

I also had to tap the back part of the lower intake manifold because of the coolant line that goes throught the throttle body.

the heads and manifold alone turned my otherwise stock automatic into a 13.2 on the quarter


http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r303/keepinitril/gt40p heads/