Attempting to pull lower intake. Need help, pics included.

InMyPrimeSVT

Founding Member

Jul 31, 2001

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Cincinnati

Nov 13, 2005

#1

• Nov 13, 2005

• #1

I was pulling my lower intake off today so I can send it off to be ported by Tmoss. I was able to get the upper intake pulled off, the valve covers, and I'm stuck on where the lower is separated from the valve springs. The lifters and valve springs dont need to be removed do they? I just cant seem to find the separation.

 

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stang8urimport

Autozone Junkie

Founding Member

Jun 21, 2002

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Daytona Beach, FL

Nov 13, 2005

#2

• Nov 13, 2005

• #2

ehhhhhh.... The lifters/pushrods have nothing to do with the intake manifold. Grab that sucker and pull it off. It's probably just stuck on from years of being on. I usually just grab it by the thermostat housing.

 

stang8urimport

Autozone Junkie

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Jun 21, 2002

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Nov 13, 2005

#3

• Nov 13, 2005

• #3

Oh yeah... You're gunna need to pull that dist.

 

B

blue87lx

New Member

Apr 23, 2005

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Nov 13, 2005

#4

• Nov 13, 2005

• #4

you gotta disconnect the injectors by either pulling them out from the manifold or by disconnecting the fuel lines from the rail. then i believe theres 12 bolts holding the intake onto the heads. they are all right along the edge of the manifold. i cant remember offhand if you have to remove the distributer to get it off but if you do make sure you mark it.

 

InMyPrimeSVT

Founding Member

Jul 31, 2001

869

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Cincinnati

Nov 13, 2005

#5

• Nov 13, 2005

• #5

yeah, i pulled all the injectors off, pulled the bolts all out, and I dont think the distributer is connected. It's in my barn right now, most likely will get yanked next weekend.

 

legalize420

Active Member

May 21, 2005

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South Florida

Nov 13, 2005

#6

• Nov 13, 2005

• #6

12 bolts, no need to remove the valve cover

 

legalize420

Active Member

May 21, 2005

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South Florida

Nov 13, 2005

#7

• Nov 13, 2005

• #7

you did drain the coolant right?

 

DMAN302

My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.

Nov 8, 2003

2,120

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windsor, Canada

Nov 13, 2005

#8

• Nov 13, 2005

• #8

yup coolant out..unlpug the injectors asd ACT sensor, 12 bolts and the distributor.

 

InMyPrimeSVT

Founding Member

Jul 31, 2001

869

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Cincinnati

Nov 13, 2005

#9

• Nov 13, 2005

• #9

Cool, thanks for the help. Yeah, pulled the injectors as well as the ACT sensor and the 12 bolts. Will pull distributer next weekend. Thanks for the help guys.

The only reason I pulled the valve covers is so I can chrome them while I'm in there.

 

trents99

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Jun 28, 2002

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Hampton, GA

Nov 14, 2005

#10

• Nov 14, 2005

• #10

short block of 2x4 and a small mallet will help get the lower off. It's probably stuck on there pretty good.

 

Zero_chance

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May 29, 2001

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Maricopa, AZ

Nov 14, 2005

#11

• Nov 14, 2005

• #11

Theres indentations for you to put a prybar between the lower and the heads.

 

InMyPrimeSVT

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Jul 31, 2001

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Cincinnati

Nov 14, 2005

#12

• Nov 14, 2005

• #12

What's the best way for me to drain my coolant before pulling the lower? I already disconnected the top radiator hose.

 

trents99

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Jun 28, 2002

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Hampton, GA

Nov 14, 2005

#13

• Nov 14, 2005

• #13

Stock radiator? Standing in front of the car it's on the passenger side bottom corner.

Also it's a good idea that once you get everything back together to change the oil before starting it back up. Water/anti-freeze will more than likely find it's way into the pan.

 

timewarped1972

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Jun 17, 2004

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mesa, az

Nov 14, 2005

#14

• Nov 14, 2005

• #14

the right way is i think theres a drain plug on the block somewhere but.....if you drain the radiator or pull the bottom hose that will help.......there's still gonna be some water in there and you wont know it till you pull the manifold....which, i've done it that way before and gotten water in there and just made sure to change the oil before i started it again.....i guess theres a neat trick of sucking the water out of an engine with a shop vac to but i'm not sure how thats done....
you don't have to pull the distributor to get the manifold off, but it does give you more room to work, especially when re installing it and dealing with the front seal/gasket area.....

 

InMyPrimeSVT

Founding Member

Jul 31, 2001

869

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Cincinnati

Nov 14, 2005

#15

• Nov 14, 2005

• #15

Ok, I'll just undo the bottom hose and let it run.

I suppose I will take the distributor cap off, I ordered an MSD cap any way. Good time to switch it out.

 

InMyPrimeSVT

Founding Member

Jul 31, 2001

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Cincinnati

Nov 14, 2005

#16

• Nov 14, 2005

• #16

Why do an oil change before starting it up?

 

DMAN302

My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.

Nov 8, 2003

2,120

2

59

windsor, Canada

Nov 14, 2005

#17

• Nov 14, 2005

• #17

Coolant will make it's way into the engine and down into the pan...yeah even if you drain it some coolant will make it's way down. The coolant does not mix well with the oil and can definately create problems for the internals in terms of proper lubrication. You MUST change the oil after an intake change.

 

InMyPrimeSVT

Founding Member

Jul 31, 2001

869

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Cincinnati

Nov 14, 2005

#18

• Nov 14, 2005

• #18

Ok cool no prob. I just changed the oil and the filter 2 weeks ago. Cool to keep the current filter?

 

timewarped1972

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Jun 17, 2004

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mesa, az

Nov 14, 2005

#19

• Nov 14, 2005

• #19

yes as long as you do NOT start it untill you change the oil.......the water will run into the lifter area, down the drain back holes and into the pan.so technically it wont get into the filter.......if alot of water gets in there you may wanna change the oil and filter again after its up and back together just to make sure cuz it don't take much water to turn your oil into baby poo in a hurry.......

 

InMyPrimeSVT

Founding Member

Jul 31, 2001

869

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Cincinnati

Nov 14, 2005

#20

• Nov 14, 2005

• #20

Ok, I will NOT start it up until the oil is drained and replaced.