audio dang burnit!!!

[JD1964]

That sub is a dual voice coil and the original is not. Also some of those all in one's use really low impedance subs that run at 1 or 2 ohms. With that sub being a DVC it can be wired for 2 ohms so it might work. I would put a DVM on the factory sub and see if you can get a idea of the nominal resistance before buying a sub.

Thanks, you edumacated me good!

 

[JD1964]

Can the same amp drive either a 2ohm or a 4ohm speaker provided the speaker and amp are matched in power output and power handling capacity?

For instance, if an amp can deliver 500w at 2ohm, the same amp can deliver 250w at 4ohm? Can this amp be matched with either 2ohm or 4ohm speaker, provided the speaker has the capacity?

 

[a91what]

Yes.

 

[JD1964]

So how much cushion is good? Lets say 250rms at 4ohms is the amp output. What would be a safe 4ohm speaker max rms? 300w?

 

[Hoytster]

Does this look right? 2.6 ohm. I guess this makes it a 2ohm?

You can't really measure impedance properly without an audio impedance meter (or signal generator). Impedance in a speaker is a result of an AC signal at certain frequencies, most multimeters are DC resistance. Is that the older infinity basslink that has the 10" passive radiator?

 

[Hoytster]

Reason I ask is that particular sub box the mounting depth is fairly shallow and the box volume is low so you will want to match it with a sub that's designed for a smaller enclosure with a shallow mounting depth.

Also, frequency response of a sub is directly related to box design and volume. As you see from the specs, the original Infinities frequency response was down to 50hz. This is somewhat directly related to the box size and design. Those things sounded good though when working IMO, had nice tight bass for such a compact unit.

 

[JD1964]

Is that the older infinity basslink that has the 10" passive radiator?

Yes it's the original version, and it does sound fantastic when working correct. Especially in the back of the hatch. I'm not sure is it would be powerful enough to be closed in the trunk, but in the interior space of the hatchback, awesome!

 

[JD1964]

Help me pic a good 10" sub box. I suppose vented is what I want right? It's a Rockford Fostgate P1S2-10 speaker

 

[Hoytster]

If your happy with the low end performance and volume of the basslink, I would look at the newer Basslink DC as it would be an exact sonic replacement. Those units are also very efficient with the passive radiator, so they really make the best of the 200watt rms they put out.

Alternatively, you could use a replacement driver out of a newer unit (or source an old nos driver) to replace yours since the enclosures are vary similar between the old and new unit. Not sure where you can source one of the top of my head, but I have a feeling any Harmon authorized dealer could get one. My company is an authorized dealer, but I'm on vacation this week.

Concerning the Rockford fosgate your looking at, since it's sounds like you like tighter bass I'd stick to a sealed enclosure with a bit more wattage on the amp side.

This box is nice for the price:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2018_Single-10-Sealed-MDF-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Belva-MDFS10.html

I'd try to find an amp between 300-400 watt rms to drive it (with an integrated sub-sonic filter).

If your looking for your bass to hit more and be a little louder at that wattage, this is a decent ported enclosure for that sub. A little on the smaller side, but within specs. I'd run this with a 300 watt rms or less amp with an integrated sub-sonic filter.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32005_Atrend-10SQV.html

 

[Hoytster]

I know these are a little more than that Rockford, but I'll be honest, I'm not a Rockford fan and have found these speakers to be great for what they cost. Rockford's are muddy imo, alot like kickers are nowadays (I used to exclusively run kickers for spl)
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45524_Alpine-Type-R-SWR-10D2.html

I've installed a couple of those for buddies (and is what I have in my truck) and they've all been happy. Put them in a .75-.85 cu/ft sealed enclosure and give them 600-1000 rms @1 ohm of quality wattage and they just sound excellent. Don't get me wrong, you can get better, but it costs. These are the best sub $200 sub out there imo. Though the Dayton reference does come close.

 

[a91what]

oh good choice, I ran alpine type r for many years before switching to the JVC arsenal in a large sealed box.

 

[JD1964]

Thanks for the tips. I'm gonna hang with the Rockford Fostgate Punch 10 as I already have it and don't want to hassle with the return and marginal loss thereof. I also have a matching Rockford Fostgate amp on the way. This one >> Amazon product ASIN B00BF6HX8UView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HX8U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I think I'll use the vented enclosure that you recommended Hoytster. Thanks

As for the Basslink, that is still in play. I'll be replacing the blown speaker with this one from JBL as it dimensionally fits the Basslink enclosure. >>
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109ST...lLwnawT8khHxcMXIFPO2Uv-aH97lzyqgaAsjMEALw_wcB The Basslink will be repaired and put back in the 92 LX.

I actually stole a powered Rockville sub from my 93 LX vert at put it in the 96 Vette. The Rockford Fostgate pieces will go in the trunk of the 93 LX vert.

 

[JD1964]

Upon further testing I think the Basslink might be done for good. I hooked other speakers to it and the amp is putting out but at really low power. Is it possible that the speaker blew first, then that problem stressed the amp and screwed it up too? I know damn well the speaker was blown because you could feel it seize and crumble when you moved the cone in and out.

 

[Hoytster]

It's possible if the subwoofer coils burnt and shorted, which would cause the amp to see a short under load. Usually the protection circuitry protects the amps when this happens. And usually if it does happen, it kills the amp entirely so there would be no sound output.

What speakers are you using to test the amp? Impedance and efficiency of the test speakers could drastically effect the output of that amp and enclosure. Those infinity basslinks are very efficient.

 

[JD1964]

Im not sure about the efficiency of the old Basslink speaker but it is a 4ohm according to the manufacture spec. I am testing with P1S2 which is a 2ohm 250w RMS max. > https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p1s2-10/

So correct me if I'm wrong but the 200w RMS at 4ohm amp in the Basslink enclosure should be more than enough for the P1S2 2ohm. The speaker cone moves plenty but the volume is just really low.

Maybe it's because the P1S2 speaker being tested is not in an enclosure? Would that drastically change its audible signal?

 

[a91what]

yes that will affect the output substantially

 

[JD1964]

yes that will affect the output substantially

Yeah, I’m a stubborn dingbat sometimes

 

[JD1964]

Rockford recommends these specifics for an enclosure for their P1S2-10" https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p1s2-10/

The vent in the box is a 3" diameter cylinder. I see the boxes on the market have a long slot as a vent instead. Is this slotted design an improvement? Am I ok with ignoring the Rockford recommended vent and going with the slotted type?

 

[JD1964]

I'm actually seriously considering this truck type box. I like the low profile. This will sit nice and low just behind back seat in the hatch area. The extra width also gives a nice mounting surface for the amp. Then the whole thing can be taken out easily and even swapped between vehicles. Check out the reviews. People seem to like it for a moderately powered single 10".

Amazon product ASIN B00NG38QW2View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NG38QW2/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

 

[Hoytster]

yes that will affect the output substantially

Agreed. A properly sized/designed cabinet effects output tremendously. Unless the sub is designed to "free-air", they usually don't sound like anything outside of a cabinet.