Autocrossing my 95 GT convertible

[Warhorse Racing]

I know that Ford makes a variety of rear bars. If only because some guy named "Warhorse Racing" talks about them on his excellent YouTube videos.
There is no sleeve. There isn't one included with the bar. The end-link is only bushings, bolt, nut, and washers, (and I added the spring).
And, I do realize it would not allow compression if there was a sleeve.

Thank you for the kind words about my channel.
I suspect, like most of the autocrossers I know, you will end up with a collection of OEM sway bars. If you don't have a local source for them, MPS Auto Salvage in GA used to have lots of them.
Interestingly enough, the Steeda 1STA used to come with the sleeves and springs (some people didn't even get the springs in their boxes). I've had several people ask me if the spring and sleeve both need to be in place, so I always mention that the sleeve isn't needed.
I appreciate all the pics you (and others) have posted. I'm really looking forward to seeing how this setup performs.

 

[Bullitt347]

Huge handicap trying to use a convertible. Chassis is weak, car is heavy, and in a class that does not allow much in the way of mods, I hope you are in it for the fun of it, because you can't make the car competitive compared to a hardtop.

 

[Warhorse Racing]

Huge handicap trying to use a convertible. Chassis is weak, car is heavy, and in a class that does not allow much in the way of mods, I hope you are in it for the fun of it, because you can't make the car competitive compared to a hardtop.

The rules in Street Touring allow for mods that will add strength to the chassis. Will it be as rigid as a coupe? No. But, with the right mods, the right adjustments, and good driving skills, there's no reason a convertible Mustang can't be competitive. When I first moved into CAM, I was told a convertible Mustang would never be competitive. Now, some of the fastest cars in CAM-T at my local events are convertible SN95 Mustangs.

This video might help people who have questions about autocrossing a convertible:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVUPEwMlrVA&t

 

[General karthief]

Highjack alert.........
There was a mention of different size rear sway bars for 79-04(?) Stangs, is there a list of sizes that fit our fox cars?

 

[Bill95]

The rules in Street Touring allow for mods that will add strength to the chassis. Will it be as rigid as a coupe? No. But, with the right mods, the right adjustments, and good driving skills, there's no reason a convertible Mustang can't be competitive. When I first moved into CAM, I was told a convertible Mustang would never be competitive. Now, some of the fastest cars in CAM-T at my local events are convertible SN95 Mustangs.

This video might help people who have questions about autocrossing a convertible:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVUPEwMlrVA&t

I'm still confirming this, but I'm confident there is a Ford Technical Service Bulletin that allows factory weld-in subframe connectors for SN95 convertibles. My car has them and is noticeably stiffer because of them. The TSB does not apply to hardtops.
I'm not really expecting to be competitive (hoping maybe, but not expecting). But, if I'm not competitive, I doubt it will be because I'm in a convertible.

 

[Warhorse Racing]

Highjack alert.........
There was a mention of different size rear sway bars for 79-04(?) Stangs, is there a list of sizes that fit our fox cars?

LMR has a list of OEM sway bar sizes here: https://lmr.com/products/Mustang-Sway-Bar-Size-Guide

Aftermarket rear bars that mount in the stock location tend to be 24mm or 25mm.

Any 79-04 solid rear axle Mustang rear sway bar will fit on a Fox. The size of the rear sway bar you want to use will depend on the other suspension mods you've made to the car and your ability to adjust the suspension to compensate for the larger rear bar. 79-04 Mustangs all came from the factory with a tendency to understeer. Adding a larger rear sway bar will help get the car neutral.

 

[Bill95]

LMR has a list of OEM sway bar sizes here: https://lmr.com/products/Mustang-Sway-Bar-Size-Guide

Aftermarket rear bars that mount in the stock location tend to be 24mm or 25mm.

Any 79-04 solid rear axle Mustang rear sway bar will fit on a Fox. The size of the rear sway bar you want to use will depend on the other suspension mods you've made to the car and your ability to adjust the suspension to compensate for the larger rear bar. 79-04 Mustangs all came from the factory with a tendency to understeer. Adding a larger rear sway bar will help get the car neutral.

While I do feel hijacked, it just led to another good link from Warhorse...

 

[7991LXnSHO]

We’ll While I do feel hijacked, it just led to another good link from Warhorse...

This is info we’ll need anyway. At least it was not about Taco Bell.

 

[General karthief]

This is info we’ll need anyway. At least it was not about Taco Bell.

Spaghetti taco bell

 

[Bill95]

Spaghetti taco bell

Do you guys have a lot of problems with Taco Bell comments? I won't even ask about the spaghetti.
I do appreciate all of the help. Hopefully I'll get this all together for the next autocross season.
And, after the suspension is sorted out, it will likely be a mild 331 with GT40 3 bar heads, and/or a mild built 4R70W. Depending on whether the engine or trans gives out first.
So, more to come...

 

[revhead347]

This is a new bushing link @revhead347 (Kurt) sent. The part number for the updated bushing (and I’m not sure how much of the link kit) is MasterPro K5342 Stabilizer Link. If I have to trim, the pic Bill posted will help.

Just to be clear on that, I didn't actually replace the whole link end. The rubber parts and or washers were either missing or in rough shape. The bolts, and springs are original ones that came with the Steeda kit. I bought that link kit just to get the rubber bushings and washers out of the kit to put on the original Steeda link bolts. It's far cheaper to buy a link kit than to buy the rubber parts separately.

Kurt

 

[Bill95]

Just to be clear on that, I didn't actually replace the whole link end. The rubber parts and or washers were either missing or in rough shape. The bolts, and springs are original ones that came with the Steeda kit. I bought that link kit just to get the rubber bushings and washers out of the kit to put on the original Steeda link bolts. It's far cheaper to buy a link kit than to buy the rubber parts separately.

Kurt

Sounds smart. I was in the opposite situation. Good nuts, bushings, springs, and washers (though I did buy four washers because two of the four on each link were a little smaller diameter for some reason and, more than anything serious, it just bothered my OCD), but in reality I just needed longer bolts. If the picture I saw was correct, the washers you got are also purpose shaped end-link washers, which I think is good. Between Steeda and my local Lowes, mine are just flat washers. But, they'll work.

 

[revhead347]

Sounds smart. I was in the opposite situation. Good nuts, bushings, springs, and washers (though I did buy four washers because two of the four on each link were a little smaller diameter for some reason and, more than anything serious, it just bothered my OCD), but in reality I just needed longer bolts. If the picture I saw was correct, the washers you got are also purpose shaped end-link washers, which I think is good. Between Steeda and my local Lowes, mine are just flat washers. But, they'll work.

Regular washers are probably ok. They are no where near as thick or rigid than the ones that come with link end kits. For what it's worth, I just went into O'Reilly's and they were able to search sway bar links from the screen, and they had pictures of all the kits available with dimensions. I just picked the cheapest one they had in the store, because all I wanted was the washers and the rubber bushings.

Kurt

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Regular washers are probably ok. They are no where near as thick or rigid than the ones that come with link end kits. For what it's worth, I just went into O'Reilly's and they were able to search sway bar links from the screen, and they had pictures of all the kits available with dimensions. I just picked the cheapest one they had in the store, because all I wanted was the washers and the rubber bushings.

Kurt

The bushings in the kit are not the standard rubber ones. I am hoping poly is best for this application. It sure was on the front of my A body and front of the Mustang.

 

[revhead347]

The bushings in the kit are not the standard rubber ones. I am hoping poly is best for this application. It sure was on the front of my A body and front of the Mustang.

I'm not quite sure what you are saying there. The Steeda and Adco bars both use rubber bushings, not eurethane.

Kurt

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I'm not quite sure what you are saying there. The Steeda and Adco bars both use rubber bushings, not eurethane.

Kurt

I’ve had sets of rubber end link bushings fall apart under street use. The poly ones have not, and have not added NHV, especially compared to missing rubber ones.

 

[Bill95]

Regular washers are probably ok. They are no where near as thick or rigid than the ones that come with link end kits. For what it's worth, I just went into O'Reilly's and they were able to search sway bar links from the screen, and they had pictures of all the kits available with dimensions. I just picked the cheapest one they had in the store, because all I wanted was the washers and the rubber bushings.

Kurt

I made sure to select Grade 8 washers. I did it because of how thick and substantial they were. Again, I think you did a smart thing with the kit, and the thick, bushing shaped washers you got are excellent, But, Like I said, I only really needed bolts. The 40 cent washers were above and beyond.

 

[revhead347]

I’ve had sets of rubber end link bushings fall apart under street use. The poly ones have not, and have not added NHV, especially compared to missing rubber ones.

Never had any of these rubber ones fall apart on this particular bar. There probably isn't anywhere near as much load on them as a regular sway bar. I lost them long before they fell apart.

Kurt

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Never had any of these rubber ones fall apart on this particular bar. There probably isn't anywhere near as much load on them as a regular sway bar. I lost them long before they fell apart.

Kurt

If it works well, I am going to be looking for the same type of thing for my A body. That car handles so much better with front and rear ADDCO bars, but even with station wagon 15” rims, it will still plow the sidewalls when pushed hard.