Average Milage from a Stock Water Pump?

[Stroked91]

What's everyone getting for milage from their stock water pumps? I've got 108,500 and think it's seen its last day. I've got a an aluminum 2-core (Fluidyne), a new 180º thermostat, and a new heavy duty fan clutch but, it still seems to get warm once getting off the freeway.
Is it finally time to change it out?

 

[HISSIN50]

give more info on what you are doing when it runs warm, what temps it is running at that point and what kind of gauge you are using.

when you get off the highway, does that mean you are idling in bad traffic or driving along at 50 mph on surface streets, etc?

good luck.

 

[Stroked91]

HISSIN50,

Normal city driving 35 - 45 mph. Stock temp gauge (don't have the money for aftermarket at the moment). Today it got as high as the "L" in normal in bad city traffic while in line getting into a car show.

Sean

 

[Michael Yount]

Water pumps rarely 'go bad' with the symptom being that the car overheats. What almost always fails is the shaft seal allowing a big leak out the shaft of the pump. Chances are really good that if it's not leaking, there is nothing wrong with your pump.

If you're sure your gauge is accurate (stock one's don't have a lot of credibility) then overheating is likely either radiator being clogged up internally (happens over time) or fan not moving enough air across it. Fan issues usually show up with overheating in traffic that cools off once you're moving. Radiator issues usually show up with overheating the harder/faster you drive the car.

 

[Stroked91]

I guess I'll have to check out the fan a little more thouroughly although, it's a new fan as well. Maybe it's just not cooling suffiently? The car doesn't leak a drop of anything. The fan clutch went out on it about 6 months ago so, I replaced it with the heavy duty police version. Don't drive the car mutch but it hasn't had an overheating issues since the fan clutch replacement. Maybe something is going on?
It's a 331 stroker (Brothers Performance) just turned 3,200 miles.
Vortech V-2 SQ has a about 1,000 miles on it.
Vortech Aftercooler.

 

[HISSIN50]

what Michael said is right on.

so you run alright (temp wise) on the freeway, but not at 35-45 mph? that is a little funky (the latter should flow enough air to not need a fan). now if there is some stop and go between burst of 35-45, i would be lookin into the fan/fan clutch.

fan clutches lose a few hundred RPM a year. and if one notes silicone fluid leaking out of it, it might be time for a swap. there is a bi-metallic spring inside the clutch which allows the silicone access to an orifice - but if there is not enough silicone, the clutch's viscous coupling cant work correctly.

good luck.

 

[Stroked91]

It's almost acting like the fan clutch again but, I know its new and it's Ford not some aftermarket cheapie? Sorry, Yes, it's stop and go traffic lights and such then it cools down when I start to move again.

 

[Michael Yount]

.....time for an electric.....

www.dccontrol.com

 

[HISSIN50]

gotcha - i forgot to re-read some of the particulars about the fan clutch. how is the resistance of the fan when spun by hand with the car off, both with a hot and cold motor? that is a highly subjective test, so i often dont even post about it. but there should be some difference.

i would also really want a decent gauge. even a 10 dollar parts store gauge sittin on the seat for a couple days will give you a benchmark as to what is goin on.

though i think you would see issues at all ranges, another thing to check perhaps is the rad cap. if the spring got weak, you might be running a little hot (diminished boiling point. each PSI raises the boiling point ~ 3*F [depends on the mixture, etc, but that is close].

good luck with it bud.

 

[Stroked91]

Thanks Michael & HISSIN. I'll check these things out. Maybe the fan clutch is bad again? Yes, Michael I've been thinking about going electric as well, I've had my eye on the BlackMagic dual to give me a little more clearance since I'm supercharged. Thanks for your suggestions. Sometimes it's hard to see the forest through the trees!

Sean

 

[gregpro50]

I got 99,890 miles off the stock one before it had to be replaced. The only reason why is because the gasket was leaking.

 

[Michael Yount]

stroked - check out SPAL's fully shrouded dual 11" unit --- MUCH better quality than the black tragic duo.....

www.spal-usa.com

 

[racerraj]

I didn't have good luck with that "police fan clutch". I finally went to a taurus fan with the dcc controller. That and a Mr Gasket thermostat solved all my problems.

 

[87gtconv]

First off let me second the problems with stock guages, they are really not accurate. My 160* thermo opens wide at what the gauage calls about 140* even though it checks out spot on my stove top with food thermometer. First few hot days and I am running no more than 160* on the gauage which is about the max for winter driving too. I love my 160* thermo even though some here told me it was nothing but trouble. In So Cal if works good in winter for me.

 

[HISSIN50]

even though it checks out spot on my stove top with food thermometer. .

i have mentioned to folks in here to use one too (i do), but i say that it is no longer fit for human consumption. does the turkey taste just a little sweeter than before? J/K.

Seriously folks (im sure this does not apply to 87GTconv - he is a smart guy and I am just kiddin with him), dont think that the better-half wont know or care - once you use the thermometer for something in the shop, go buy a new one for the Mrs. Wally mart sells them for like a buck.

 

[Stroked91]

Well, the problem is back

First of all I know I need to get a real temp gauge. With that said, I just installed twin 11" fans yesterday and everything was working fine (in the driveway). I let it run for a half an hour in the garage last night and it stayed real cool. Today I took the rad cap off to top it off and let it run for 20 mins with no problems. I went to my friends muffler shop to have him weld in a bung (10 miles away) and came back home and the gauge went up to 3/4 so I pulled into the driveway and turned it off. I have the fans wired hot and they stayed on for 3-1/2 minutes until I finally I adjusted the controller to the second to the last setting before they'd turn off.

Any suggestions? I still suspect the stock water pump (w/ 108K on it).

Mods:
New Girdled 331 Stroker w/3,200 miles on it (Brothers Performance)
New V2-SQ w/ 2.96 10 rib pulley (about 1,500 miles on it)
New Vortech Power Cooler
New Vortech FMU w/4-1 gain
New Andersen Power Pipe
Pro M 77mm MAF
New FMS Timing Chain
New FMS Hardened Pushrods
New FMS E-303 Cam
New 1.7 Crane Golds
New FMS roller lifters
New AFR 185's
GT 40 Upper
GT 40 Lower Ported / matched
New 42 lb. Bosch injectors
BBK 70mm Throttle Body
New 180º Thermostat
New Fluidyne Alum. Two Core
New Flex-A-Lite (FLX-210) Dual 11"
New Radiator Cap

I should probably have a HI Flow water pump but you know how it goes when you're on a budget. You save, and wait, you buy, and wait, get anxious and finally can't take it anymore and figure on what you can do w/out to get it on the road.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Stang8URMPRT]

Like what was said, the water pump usually leaks when it goes bad. SOMETIMES the impellar shaft will break and cause no water flow and no leak, but it would overheat very very fast. My stock gauge went out on my 90, and it read just like yours does. Get a 10 dollar Sunpro Water temp gauge from Autozone or Advanced check the temp before you go spending money, and a lot of time replacing a good water pump. Just my .02.

Nick

 

[HISSIN50]

agreed with Nick all the way.

good luck.

 

[Stroked91]

I'll get one tomorrow. God, I hope it's that simple. It would be really nice just to have bad readings and not to have tear into anything

 

[mjbtv]

As a general rule water pumps should be replaced at 65,000 miles.