I would certainly give that a try. Just remember that you need to stay out of the range where boost starts to come up.Thank you for all the information. Would it be worth a shot of taking the tuning chip out the ecu to see if that works?
You are all over the field and out of order on this one. It is unlikely sparking to ground would hurt the coil or computer. But no spark will cause a no start condition. (Are you pranking us?).
1. Did you check to see if there is spark like someone asked? 2. Have you inspected the wires for melted spots, cracks or other defects?
One at a time, so they do not get mixed up, remove and visually inspect each wire. While it is off, touch the leads of your multimeter set to resistance/ ohms to the brass contacts of the spark plug wire. Make sure it has continuity. An old spec was 5k ohms per foot for resistor wires. Make sure no wire is horribly out of spec to the set. Use dielectric grease on the boots to help waterproof and make sure they come apart easier next time. Coat the inside of each boot with the special grease with a Q tip.
After they are all checked and any bad ones are replaced, check for spark. If you are not brave enough to use insulated pliers to hold a wire near the terminal, there are cheap spark visualizers at the parts store.
Trying to pull codes now but it seems that someone might have unplugged the light for the check engine light. I'm trying to figure that out nowAlso, the relay for the EEC is for the computer. The relay for the fuel pump is a different item and in a different place.
So what did the codes say??
Trying to pull codes now but it seems that someone might have unplugged the light for the check engine light. I'm trying to figure that out now
I am officially lost here. Throw me a map or something
Do you have spark
Did you use a noid light to see if your injectors are firing
- from the coill wire to the cap
- from the cap to the spark plug
What is your plug gap
Are all of your wires working and in the proper firing order
Is the distributor phased properly
???
OK don't see how that happened.
You don't need to use the dash CEL. 87-88's didnt have a CEL. Follow Jrichker's instructions on how to check codes with the test light,
@jrichker how to pull codes
I read through his post on how to pull codes. In it I read to start the engine of course mine won't. So do I do just turn the key forward to get codes?
You can run KOEO- key on engine off and KOER- key on engine running codes. The KOEO can be run without the engine running. This will give you "stored" codes.
Ok. I'll give that a try. I was speaking to the previous owner a few moments ago just asking about what happened again. He said he was cruising at around 50 mph and all of a sudden the car backfired and turned off.
Idk if that means anything or leads to anything
And you left that out until post #54 because?
If you really believe that he was just "cruising along" at 50mph in a blown car and all of sudden the car backfired for no reason, I've got some swamp land down here in the Everglades I'll sell you dirt cheap.
What did the prior owner due to get it fixed and running or is this now YOUR problem?
So to answer my question- this is now your problem Backfire = lean condition or timing is off. Both not good with a blown motor. The motor not running after a backfire could be a mechanical failure glown intake/head gasket, fried EEC, bad distributor, and about a dozen other things Welcome to the Easter Egg hunt..
I would start with running the codes.
Then I would check the oil and coolant for signs of cross contamination, pull the spark plugs and run a compression test. Experienced guys right reading this know where this may be heading.
On the back on the engine the "salt and pepper connectors". The white plug has a orange wire that's connected to it but not connected at the other end. Any idea where that wire goes or what it's for?
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