Bed Liner Inside Car

Good question. I used undercoating in some areas of my floorboard...and planned on coating EVERYTHING the next time I have my interior stripped out. I wonder if bedliner would work better. All though I think it is very expensive.

I sprayed POR15 on the entire undercarraige of my 81 notchback...(Project 81 Hack Job.)

I also brushed it in the entire interior. I am talking, behind the dash, the underside of the cowl, the floor pans, front to back, the transmission tunnel, the rear seat floor pan, the inner quarter panels, the wheel wells, the trunk,....everything. I also bought some Cascade Audio Engineering sound deadener to put behind the dash, the floor, and everywhere else. My car is nice and quiet.

POR inside and out, FTW! Make sure you have a resperator...(not a dusk mask) a good resperator, and make sure you get long industrial strength rubber glove that go to your elbows. POR15 will not come off of your skin very easy. I scrubbed and scrubbed, used gas, laquer thinner....I mean nothing takes it off. Wear eye protection too. This stuff will irritate your eyes more than anything.

How is the Por15 stuff as far as taking chips? I had an idea of stripping my interior floor pan and just coating the whole thing in Por15 and leaving it that way (for a sort of road race inspired look). How well does it hold up to wear and tear and the occasional dropped wrench? Is this stuff "self leveling" paint...as in you can brush it on and it smooths out like it's been sprayed on?

I work at a jeep dealer and we see plenty of wranglers coming in with the carpet out and they use colored bed liner paint for thier floors and it works well for them so I am sure it would work for you under a carpet.

Make sure you use a catyalized bed liner

WhiteThunder said:

Fett, I would think it would work better than just undercoating, but I could be wrong. Yes it will be more expensive, but I think it would be worth it.

Thanks for the tips SVT. I have a dual canister respirator I used to use for airbrushing I can use as well as some elbow length chemical gloves as well. I plan to do exactly what you did, I'm coating EVERYTHING. I was hoping for a clear weekend so I could finish stripping the interior, but alas...rain. Do you have any pictures of yours before you installed everything?

Also, I believe I have some rust under the rear interior pieces, right next to the back seat. How well does por-15 do on rust, I'm afraid to pull everything apart and find a ton of cancer that I can't get to.

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POR15 holds extremely well to rust and regular painted metal surfaces. It doesn't stick to bare/clean metal too well, afterall, it is rust preventive and rust stopping paint. I had a couple rust spots on my floor as well. I just scuffed the rust and surrounding area with 80 grit, then sprayed or brushed the POR. I usually brushed the stuff. It doesn't go as far brushing, but the overspray from that stuff gets everywhere, and it even stuck to my contact lenses!!!!! I couldn't see when I was done.

Another spot to look for rust is inside the trunk, behind the wheel and in front of the bumper. I'm talking about the inside of the "outside" quarter skin...if you know what I mean. You will know what I am talking about when you take the carpet up. Put a flashlight in there and look around. I had some rust (minor), so I just scuffed it with 80 grit, then literally poured the POR15 down there, and brushed it all around. Works great.

Here is the underside of my car. I have a bad inside pic too. I also have a pic of the rear quarter areas outside....look in the trunk in this areas section.



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85_SS_302_Coupe said:

How is the Por15 stuff as far as taking chips? I had an idea of stripping my interior floor pan and just coating the whole thing in Por15 and leaving it that way (for a sort of road race inspired look). How well does it hold up to wear and tear and the occasional dropped wrench? Is this stuff "self leveling" paint...as in you can brush it on and it smooths out like it's been sprayed on?

Click to expand...

POR15 is excellent against chips. I hammered in a peice of floor pan to clear a fule line, and it didn't even chip off!! It will laugh at a dropped wrench. But it is all in how you prep it. While it can go over rust, you still need to clean the area of wax, silicone, grease, oil, and dirt. If you spray it, you are suppose to spray it thin, let it dry for 12-24 hours, then scuff and spray again. They recommend no more than two coats. The coats thicken up as they dry. Also...if you brush it, it smooths out pretty nice as long as you brush it good. Use a quality brush.

One more thing....it is not UV friendly. So if it is exposed to sunlight, it will fade...so don't plan on painting the outside of your car with it. (I know most wouldn't, but this has been asked before)