Benefits of my 1.7 r/r?

[95Vert]

I'm seriosly considering removing them. WHY? Cause they make noise and I'm worried about it. As the engine revs, the louder it gets. I mean, it's not crazy loud and you can't hear them with the hood latched, but if the hood is up, you can really hear them. My question is, what am I gaining from them, do I even really need them or will my car perform the same with the stockers? What do the 1.7s do for my car besides make me nervous.

PS, I re-torqued them down to 22lbs, and installed new lifters and the noise is still there.

 

[95strokerPSU]

Which ones do you have? I have the Crane/Cobra 1.7's and they don't make any noise. Are u still using stock valve covers?

 

[95Vert]

Those are the ones I have. And yes, I have the stock covers. But they don't hit tho. Well, at least I don't think so.

 

[sick_azz_cobra]

sounds like they hit, i have the same ones but i have the higher trick flow covers they do not make any noise.

 

[95Vert]

thanks for the advice but I don't think the v/c are my problem. I say this because when I had just installed the lifters along with re-torquing the rockers, the noise was reduced. But after several miles, it came back.

 

[sonicblue87lx]

thanks for the advice but I don't think the v/c are my problem. I say this because when I had just installed the lifters along with re-torquing the rockers, the noise was reduced. But after several miles, it came back.

When I had mine they made some noise. I hated it. I went back to 1.6 also since my Lock on my valve spring mushroomed out and i almost droped a valve.

 

[95Vert]

See, I'm worried about things like that happening to mine. But yet, what is the benefit of running the 1.7s? Should I just take them off and make some money?

 

[urban96]

how old are your lifters? it could be time for some new ones

my 1.7's arent noisy (maybe the exhause just covers up the sound)
i have some alum fox vc's covering my rockers

 

[1TallMF]

I heard the 1.7's made little to no difference in terms of power on stock E7's

 

[95Vert]

I have the gt-40 heads and my lifters are brand new, maybe 800 miles on them. I switched out the valve springs, lifters, and rockers. I didn't switch out the rods, tho. Is that an option? My current rods are picking up oil and lubricating the rockers. I know cause I took the v/c off and started the car and i hey picked up oil fine.

 

[8950HO]

Did you set the preload properly on them,between 1/2-3/4 of a turn after zero lash with the lifter off the cam lobe?

I have those Crane 1.7`s and they are quieter than the stock junk.

 

[95Vert]

No sir, I didn't do that. Don't I need to have the car running for that, or how does that work?

 

[m72steeda]

Stock heads

Can I use the 1.7 on the stock heads and pistons? Is there any valve clearance problems?

 

[black94gt50]

Have you converted your head over to studs or are the rockers pedestal mount. When i had 1.7 pedestal mounted roller rockers on mine i had to order some comp cams pushrods, because the stock pushrods were just a tad bit too short.

 

[8950HO]

No sir, I didn't do that. Don't I need to have the car running for that, or how does that work?

Crane should have instructions on their site for setting up those rockers.(do you not have the instructions?).
It`s a procedure that takes some experience.I don`t feel like typing it out.

You can`t just bolt down pedestal mount rockers blindly without checking and setting the proper preload on the lifters.This is Not the way to do it.

 

[Methodical]

No sir, I didn't do that. Don't I need to have the car running for that, or how does that work?

That's most likely your problem. You need to set preload.

Here you go:

HYDRAULIC LIFTER/VALVE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.

2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rockerarm.

3. To adjust, back off the intake rockerarm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.

4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rockerarm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rockerarm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rockerarm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rockerarm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.

There may be some initial valvetrain noise when the engine is first fired up but once oil pressure has stabilized and the engine heats up, it should quiet right down to a normal level.

Remember that some racier camshafts will have a mechanical sound to them and will not be a silent as factory units.

Another for Ped's...This is from Hardcore.com
Spin motor with a wratchet on the crank .
Watch the valves , and remember this rule " As exhaust starts to open - adjust intake . Just After intake closes - adjust exhaust "
Now When you get a rocker ready to adjust , loosen the bolt up about 2 turns .
Now hold the pushrod lightly and spin the pushrod with 2 fingers , while you tighten the bolt up .

* dont push down hard on the wrench while doing this , the socket will hit the rocker and fool you into thinking its snug before it really is *

When you feel a slight drag on the pushrod as you spin it , stop tightening bolt .
Now , let go of the rod , and count how many turns of the bolt it takes to tighten it down.
Im gonna guess some will only take 1/4 turn to tighten . Thats not enough pre-load . A good 3/4 turn is good .
If you have one that tightens up at 1 1/4 turn < too much > , and one thats at 1/4 turn , take that rocker and rod , and swap them as a set . See if that cures the both of them . Sometimes you get lucky .

After you are all done , and have ones that still take more than 1 turn to tighten down , add a shim .

Or get custom pushrods .<?***:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><O></O>
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[Methodical]

Benefits is you .030" more lift than with a 1.6rr.

 

[final5-0]

Two main Q's you seem to be concerned about, as I see it

POWER

Its not like you can expect a BIG gain

5 to 10 and most likely ......... closer to 5 than 10 rwhp

NOISE

Hey even stock Cobras make more noise than stock GT's

It is not uncommon to hear different noise levels from the valve trains between all Stangs, whether they be GT or Cobra.

however

For the most part ................

Roller Rockers make more noise than the OEM stamped steel rockers.

Peds are such a Bleepin hassle with thier mickey mouse shims or different length required pr's to get things back in the correct range of pre load

I just hate them Bleepin things

You are just gonna have to get the preload in the proper range for the MOST Quiet
but
most likely not ... as quiet ... as oem operation.

A bunch of for such a tiny gain ... if you ask me

Grady

 

[95Vert]

Have you converted your head over to studs or are the rockers pedestal mount. When i had 1.7 pedestal mounted roller rockers on mine i had to order some comp cams pushrods, because the stock pushrods were just a tad bit too short.

I was told the same thing but I don't know which ones to get, do you have a part number.