If it was me, using a stock block, I'd go with some TW heads that I'd do my own cartridge roll blend and polish on the ports and add some Comp behive springs+Ti retainers, a 230/240 duration cam, and a Systemax or Victor intake depending on the compression that I end up using, 85mm MAF, 75mm TB, and 30lb injectors since I'd be shooting for over 400 HP. I'd also spend a few hundred extra bucks to get the entire rotating assembly internally balanced so I can zing it up to 7000 without any worries. This is pretty much what I'm planning on after I get outa the U and get a real job so I've done a little research
nope, dart block probably a sportsman...i dont need a friggin eagle. and i want great low end torque. as well as 0.k.-good high end.
i want to get AS MUCH POWER AS POSSIBLE w/o a power adder.
it'll probable just go to about 5,000 to 6,000 rpms because of my aod (which im going to build up).
also i want to maybe later in its lifetime add a dry nitrous. so hook me up with some info please
AFR 185 if emissions legal, AFR 205 if not, Edelbrock RPM II, OTS Comp Cams XE274HR or custom grind, and 30lb injectors. Run 4.30 gears and a 3000-3500 stall and shift at 6200. This is what I think would get "as much power as possible" with OTS parts for a quarter mile oriented car.
Canfield heads - full port job. Either spyder or vic efi intake. 42lb inj, 90mm lightning mas, 90mm tbody. Cam would have to be custom solid flat tappet.
well if you are planning to use a dart block you can get the one with the
4.125 bore witch if i remember right comes out to be a 347 while still having the 331 rod ratio.
well if you are planning to use a dart block you can get the one with the
4.125 bore witch if i remember right comes out to be a 347 while still having the 331 rod ratio.
seriously?
because that pwns, does dart even sell 331 blocks because they do have a 302 block that has an optional bore of 4.125....so what is that? a 347 or 331?