Big problem! Clutch or driveline, i dont even know

#22
I forget which forum it was in, but a guy had a problem with lost power while cruising, but idled great. It was a loose/bad connection on his coil. Maybe a possibility?

Don't forget air filter, it may look somewhat clean, but could cause a lack of air into the carb.
 
#24
scottthomp said:
yes i dont know much about carbs, but if there was water in the gas wouldnt it run bad all the time, not just when there is a load on it?

i was thinking about the fuel being bad but i have put about 12 gallons in it over the last 4 weeks.
Click to expand...
No, it would only run bad when the water ( which accumulates in the bowl bottom) gets pulled into the jets or accellerator pump inlet ( which is in the bottom of the bowl)
 
#26
I know exactly what you are talking about!!! My 66 and my friends 63 falcon with a toploader have done the exact same thing shortly after a rebuild. Its the clutch. In both our cars if you take of fast(almost burning out) like you said it will take off fine. But if you take off normal the whole car bucks like a wild mustang(pun intended :) ) and feels like the car is coming apart. We just kept taking off fast and after the clutch breaks in it went away. Cant explain it, but take your car out and keep taking off fast alot and see if you think it gets better. Let me know! Im very curious if you are experiancing the same thing.

Nobody else with a toploader has had this happen?
 
#28
I had a similar problem recently on my '65. It'd run ok for about a mile and then it would 'surge' and finally stop running. I'd wait 5-10 minutes and it'd go another mile. Replaced the fuel filter. No help. I thought it was the fuel pump so I replaced it with an electric. Same problem. Started to think it might be a carb problem. But it's a new Edelbrock!
I finally got so frustrated I replaced the fuel tank and sending unit. Needed it anyhow! I noticed there is a filter on the end of the sending unit. So I pulled out the sending unit on the old one and that filter on the end was clogged up.
Got the new tank in and it's run great ever since.
Drain your tank and pull the sending unit. My $$$ is on that!
Hope this helps.
 
#29
ok i will check that, thanks. only problem is i know i have fuel at the filter, i can see it, the filter is full and the pump is pumping. now my question is how much should it pump. i cranked for 3 to 4 seconds and got about a half a cup of gas. it would be a big help to know if that is good or not
 
#31
hey edmond is only 40 minutes or so and my stang is parked in storage on 51 west of stilly, what will it take, a case of beer, some money?? just kidding

i was thinking fuel pump but it seems to be one of those things that is either working or not working. but if there is a clog somewhere in the lines then it will work but not up to standards. i need to know what standard is
 
#32
If the car was sitting for a while before you got it running, I'd be suspicious of a plugged fuel pickup (inside the tank) or a blocked fuel line. The amount of crud that collects in these old fuel systems is pretty amazing (actually, what's amazing is how well they run even with all the crud, but there is a limit).

It takes time for your fuel pump to suck enough crud into the pickup and fuel line to cause a problem - that's why the first 400 miles may have been dandy and the last few the pits. Also -- try filling the fuel tank - if it's a blocked pickup in the tank, a full fuel tank can at least mask the symptoms for a while (until the fuel gets low again, anyway...).

If you've already replaced all this stuff (tank, pickup and lines) -- the advice is worth what you paid for it! :p If you haven't, I'd start looking hard.
 
#33
yes everything is new, but the motor was built about 3 years ago, and its initial run was then also, the carb could have dried out for a while.

i guess i will brake down and take the carb off and take it to somebody who knows what they are doing. then if that doesnt work i will trace the fuel back from there. and if that doesnt work ill start replacing everything.
 
#35
scottthomp said:
ok i will check that, thanks. only problem is i know i have fuel at the filter, i can see it, the filter is full and the pump is pumping. now my question is how much should it pump. i cranked for 3 to 4 seconds and got about a half a cup of gas. it would be a big help to know if that is good or not
Click to expand...

Hey~
I could also see that I had fuel in my inline filter. The car would idle fine, but under load it couldn't suck enough fuel to keep the motor running and would die. It was drivin me CRAZY!
If you've never had the sending unit out of the tank........pull it and clean the filter on the 'pickup'. Since you've got it out.....replace the sending unit. I don't think it was very expensive.
 
#36
Scott, you may have fuel in your fuel filter; but is it enough? When you're running the engine up "no-load" (not pulling the car around, just revving the motor out of gear), you've got enough fuel delivery; but when you're driving along going through the gears; then engine uses a lot more fuel, probably more than it can feed itself in this condition.

-That's pretty simple, I know; but I haven't seen it actually mentioned in this thread! You'd be surprised how easily the simplest stuff can get past somebody when they're frustrated.-

I'd bet a couple of bucks that the clutch/tranny isn't even close to the issue. Pickup filter, fuel pump diaphragm, maybe a vacuum leak. How long did this car sit around -collecting crud in the tank (and carb float bowl) and dry-rotting its rubber components- before you got it?
EDIT: Oh, duh! I just went back and read your posts. 6-year restoration. :doh:
Sounds like I was luckier than somebody for once.....When I bought my F100 lots of years ago; it had been sitting in the southern Arizona (Tucson) desert for two years, only was started once in all that time. I got an entire 10-1/2 months use out of it before all the 'hidden" rubber drivetrain components (fuel pump, carb seals, distributor vacuum solenoid, valve stem seals, oil pan and valve cover gaskets, C6 tranny gaskets and modulator, axle seals) completely gave out and it could hardly move out of the puddles of it's own fluids! :rolleyes: First thing I would do would be to pull the dipstick and give it the old "sniff test" - see if it smells more like gasoline than oil. But then, the fuel pump was the first thing I changed on that truck.
 
#37
OK I unhooked the gas line again at the carb and even when i was just pinching the clamp gas started spraying out of the line. So i know i have good pressure to the carb and everything is working there. but it still doesnt run right.

i pulled a plug to look at it and it was a dull black color with a tiny buildup around the bottom ring. It didnt smell like gas. would it do this if running rich?

so i tried to take the holley 4160 carb apart. i took off the 4 bolts in the front 4 corners trying to take that whole front part off. When i took off the bottom bolts gas poured out of the holes. but i couldnt get it off. how do i get in there?

still revs great to 4000 rpm in neutral, but stumbles in gear. i cant figure it out.
 
#38
User Name said:
I know exactly what you are talking about!!! My 66 and my friends 63 falcon with a toploader have done the exact same thing shortly after a rebuild. Its the clutch. In both our cars if you take of fast(almost burning out) like you said it will take off fine. But if you take off normal the whole car bucks like a wild mustang(pun intended :) ) and feels like the car is coming apart. We just kept taking off fast and after the clutch breaks in it went away. Cant explain it, but take your car out and keep taking off fast alot and see if you think it gets better. Let me know! Im very curious if you are experiancing the same thing.

Nobody else with a toploader has had this happen?
Click to expand...


I've had that happen, but I didn't lose any power after the clutch engages. I think scott's issue is he can rev the engine in neutral but can't get most of the power while in gear. The bucking part is stumping me, maybe grease/oil on the flywheel as stated before, but that should decrease with usage, and he did state that it ran good for the first 400 miles. I had a throw out bearing fail in less than a year, but that doesn't sound like his problem. I once had a car that could rev like crazy but couldn't build any speed, in that case, it was the wrong size crank bearings, too sloppy. I dunno, good luck.
 
#40
I dont know if this will help, but think outside the box for a little bit. There may be other things that you are not thinking off. I had a strange, jumpy power issue once. Car would buck and surge power/no power/power when taking off. Turned out to be a broken motor mount and it was lifting and dropping one side of the motor. Also had another problem one time where it would vibrate really bad, grab odd at the clutch, sometimes better, sometimes worse.....that time the transmission had loosen up from the bellhousing and was thus mating the clutch and flywheel inaccurately.

Good luck and keep searchin!
 
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