I tried to clearance the banjo bolt, but I'm afraid to go any further. I can still crack it loose, but if I take anymore off, I don't think I'll be able to service the brakes... It's very, very close but still contacting wheel.
Black Jack: Weld Draglites. I guess I'm hosed
- Thread starter FastDriver
- Start date
Post in thread 'Black Jack: Weld Draglites. I guess I'm hosed' https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/884727/post-9385485
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The link does not describe the rotor diameter used. Is it a stock SN95 or something else?
When I was building my car I went with a 11.23" rear rotor and my stock 15" rims would just rub on the caliper so I went with a set of 16" wheels.
When I was building my car I went with a 11.23" rear rotor and my stock 15" rims would just rub on the caliper so I went with a set of 16" wheels.
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With the rear Cobra rotors being 11.65" in diameter and the V6/GT rear rotors being 10.5" you could swap to the V6/GT rear brake setup and they would clear no problem. About the best you can do with the V6/GT rear rotors is to get the drilled and vented ones as there are not vented units that I am aware of.
This is the reason I am running non Cobra brake set up, with 15", plus lighter.
As for rear suspension bushings. I split a set at the track years ago. I switched to TeamZ solid set up. If you are launching hard with higher HP I feel solid is the only logical long term solution.
As for rear suspension bushings. I split a set at the track years ago. I switched to TeamZ solid set up. If you are launching hard with higher HP I feel solid is the only logical long term solution.
