Black Jack: Working up to slicks
- Thread starter FastDriver
- Start date
Send that ecu to the ECUExchange
www.theecuexchange.com
They will get it fixed up and better than buy'n one off 'the market' that may have problems.
Home - ECU Exchange
ECU Exchange specializes in the re-manufacturing and repair of engine control modules.
www.theecuexchange.com
The ECU relay is located right about the ECM. There is nothing inside the ECU itself that would click so it could be the ECU relay opening and closing that is making that sound.
The coil for the relay is fed from the ignition, but bounces around a bit on the wiring. This is the '88 EVTM but i think it's the same other than wire colors. This may point back to a failing ignition switch. Wire 16 off the ignition switch, through the fuse link by the wiper motor and on to the coil/tfi and then connection J to the EEC relay
Replaced the ignition switch early on with all the electrical gremlins the car had, but I think I have another one on the shelf and don't mind swapping again. As far as the EEC relay goes... great... I'll look for it.
Tried swapping the ignition switch again. Swapped the A9L, tested the MSD 6AL. Used a spark tester and watched plenty of spark during cranking. Put all parts I replaced back in, including the old dizzy. I don't want to complicate further diagnostics by having multiple changes at once. Couldn't get to the EEC relay, yet. I guess that's next, followed by using the no-start checklist, and then setting it on fire... lol
Check the fuel pump switch back by the tail lights behind the rear trim, I forget the name but it's the rollover sensor/safety switch.
Ahhhh,
I know this,it's called......it's called............it's right on the tip of my tongue
the inertia switch
Yup, that's it
EEC relay also powers the fuel pump relay. SO if you lose the ECU relay it kills the pump momentarily as well.
Maybe I should just start working through the no-start diagnostic checklist. If it's not the relay or maybe the 10-pin connectors, I'm out of ideas.
It is hard to figure out what's left that I haven't addressed but at least the relay, as you suggested, plausibly connects the cutting out and no-crank problem with the light load ticking/clicking I started hearing in the month or so before.
It is hard to figure out what's left that I haven't addressed but at least the relay, as you suggested, plausibly connects the cutting out and no-crank problem with the light load ticking/clicking I started hearing in the month or so before.
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Found a spare EEC relay on the wiring harness that used to be on the blue '93. Swapped it in. No dice! Cleaning 10-pin connectors next.
Can you confirm that the relay "clicks" when you turn the key to on?
edit: nevermind. If the fuel pump is priming correctly, it's being fed from the relay so it's working
edit: nevermind. If the fuel pump is priming correctly, it's being fed from the relay so it's working
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Step 1 of the no-start checklist and I've already found the problem. The spark I was getting was intermittent while cranking it over until I bypassed the MSD box. Now, I either need to trace the wiring to the MSD box and find the issue, or just permanently bypass and remove the 6AL.
I need to put this somewhere that I can just press a button and it will paste into every Accel/MSD thread on the interwebz.
*Mumbles some
about having a nickel...*
Yeah... It was pretty tricky, because it sparked fine the several times I tested it. This is my first time with an MSD Box issue across all of my cars, and this particular box has been doing well in the car since I bought it in 2014. I'm wondering if the recent wire tuck had something to do with it, but it's probably just the box. I will likely remove it completely tomorrow after a little more testing. With some luck, the box was also the ticking sound, even though it's mounted so far forward in the engine bay.
I dont know if the name Tony Reiners is familiar to anyone, but he's somewhat well known for his wizardry with a stock block 351. He was making in the neighborhood of 900whp with a stock TFI system and no booster box. I'm pretty resolute in my beliefs that they aren't needed in most applications and Ill do whatever I can to avoid them. Just another piece to strand you.
Welp, it was indeed the box. I extended & connected the stock ignition coil wiring from the fender, and it cranked and ran long enough for me to set timing.... maybe a full minute, which it has not done since the car left me stranded. So, I'm pretty sure it's good to go, now. I'll probably button it up on the first available day after xmas... Monday, maybe...
So, what do you boys do for timing retard and a spark limiter on nitrous systems? Is there any other option than a tuner/stand-alone? I think I'll end up putting another box back in the car for those capabilities, but it's not going to be a 6AL.
So, what do you boys do for timing retard and a spark limiter on nitrous systems? Is there any other option than a tuner/stand-alone? I think I'll end up putting another box back in the car for those capabilities, but it's not going to be a 6AL.
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My suggestion would be to dump the EEC and move to the MSPNP or something similar. I’m headed that direction this spring when they get the sequential injection unit on the market. There is a forum on here for tuning this unit and a couple guys that really know their stuff and are always willing to help.
Yeah, I have 2 foxes with stand-alones. I'm probably not headed that direction with this car. The other cars get fairly open budgets, but I don't need a 3rd. Trying to keep this one under control.
Does the MS actually limit spark? My Stand alones do not. They, like the stock computer, limit fuel.
Does the MS actually limit spark? My Stand alones do not. They, like the stock computer, limit fuel.
