I just put new calipers and rotors and pads on my rear wheels. They are stock replacements, just the normal stuff. When we took the old ones off, I did not plug up the brake line to prevent air from getting in. (I'll remember to read first before dismantling from now on) Now I can't get my brakes to bleed. To make matters worse, when I disconnected the e-brake cables from the calipers, I think something went wrong. I released one side with the e-brake on and then realized I should probably put it down. So I did, and took the other side off. When I hooked up my e-brake cables (I literally held that spring contraption with a prybar as far as it would go while my brother pulled the cable into its slot) I went to test it by pulling it up inside the car and it won't budge. It is stuck down. Now my brakes won't bleed, my e-brake won't budge, and my car is stuck on jack-stands until I figure this out. Please someone point me in the right direction. I am novice at this stuff and trying to save as much money as I can.(not very good for a sports car owner) Any tips on how to do this at home would be the best. I really didn't think this would be too hard, but its proving to be harder than swaping my clutch. Thanks in advance! Tswen.
BRAKE PROBLEM--HELP PLEASE!!
- Thread starter x_raiderx_x
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shallowreef
New Member
Wish i could help but i can't. Just keep this fresh under new posts and someone will see it and help you out.
Sorry and good luck!!
Sorry and good luck!!
I'm assuming you twisted the pistons in with the rear caliper tool first, right?
Right now, I would leave the parking brake cable disconnected. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is full, and put the cap on. Have someone pump up the brakes, and hold pressure on the pedal, while you loosen the right rear bleeder screw. Keep doing that until you get bubble-free fluid coming out, while keeping an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. Once that wheel is done, do the left wheel. Do the right front next, then the left. Make sure that reservoir never gets sucked dry. When you get all the air out, and good pressure back in the pedal, then mess with the parking brake. There's a way to release the tension on the cable from inside, but I don't remember how to do that right now. When I do, I'll post it up. Good luck, and keep that brake fluid off of the paint!
Right now, I would leave the parking brake cable disconnected. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is full, and put the cap on. Have someone pump up the brakes, and hold pressure on the pedal, while you loosen the right rear bleeder screw. Keep doing that until you get bubble-free fluid coming out, while keeping an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. Once that wheel is done, do the left wheel. Do the right front next, then the left. Make sure that reservoir never gets sucked dry. When you get all the air out, and good pressure back in the pedal, then mess with the parking brake. There's a way to release the tension on the cable from inside, but I don't remember how to do that right now. When I do, I'll post it up. Good luck, and keep that brake fluid off of the paint!
trailblazr81
Member
If you get air into the ABS, or touch the parking brake while it is disconnected from caliper you are SOL. These usually result in a trip to a shop/garage. Tho I was able to swap calipers without plugging lines, bleed and be good. I got a $30 one man bleeder from auto parts store, its a little sealed plastic bottle with a hand vacuum pump and some cear rubber hose. Works like a champ when bleeding brakes.
Thanks guys. I do appreciate the help. However, I have been puming the brake and trying to bleed it but it seems like nothing happens. My brake pedal is aloose as my clutch pedal. no pressure builds up. My old caliper's piston was stuck out. I tried to force it out with air, wd-40, and I tried to compress it with a c-clamp, but nothing worked. I got a relacement for both sides since the book recommened it if one breaks.
No, I did not do anything to the calipers that I received em, I mounted them on the brackets and put the pads in, then attached it to the rotor and tightened it on. Then I pushed a pry bar as hard as I could into that little spring thing and my brother pulled the e-brake cable into the catch. I've heard there is a circular looking thing that the e-brake cable wraps up around and that you can stick something in it to get some extra tension. Could that be the problem with my ebrake? If so, where the hell is it? I'm looking under my car and I don't see it anywhere like it looks in my haynes. (go figure)
No, I did not do anything to the calipers that I received em, I mounted them on the brackets and put the pads in, then attached it to the rotor and tightened it on. Then I pushed a pry bar as hard as I could into that little spring thing and my brother pulled the e-brake cable into the catch. I've heard there is a circular looking thing that the e-brake cable wraps up around and that you can stick something in it to get some extra tension. Could that be the problem with my ebrake? If so, where the hell is it? I'm looking under my car and I don't see it anywhere like it looks in my haynes. (go figure)
I am doubtful that you got air in the ABS module as it is pretty far from the rear brakes.
The clock spring tensioner for the e-brake is in the center console I believe (the thing pictured in the Haynes manua)l.
I would try this:
-make sure ALL BLEEDER VALVES ARE CLOSED
-start bleeding on the right rear (passenger side)
-if you are having trouble with timing the brake presses to the opening of the bleeder use a speed bleeder or some other one man method
-next bleed the left rear (drivers side)
-next bleed the right front
-next bleed the left front
-do not let the resevior run empty
-if the resevior has already run empty have the car moved to a repair shop on a flat bed and repaired by a professional as there IS air in the ABS module
The clock spring tensioner for the e-brake is in the center console I believe (the thing pictured in the Haynes manua)l.
I would try this:
-make sure ALL BLEEDER VALVES ARE CLOSED
-start bleeding on the right rear (passenger side)
-if you are having trouble with timing the brake presses to the opening of the bleeder use a speed bleeder or some other one man method
-next bleed the left rear (drivers side)
-next bleed the right front
-next bleed the left front
-do not let the resevior run empty
-if the resevior has already run empty have the car moved to a repair shop on a flat bed and repaired by a professional as there IS air in the ABS module
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