Buffer Pads / Cloths

DocG

5th graders > me. They're not bant
Sep 25, 2005
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Cincinnati area
Planning to detail my stang soon, and won't bother asking about polishes/waxes, but do need some advice on buffer pads and clothes to use. I have a pretty generic 8" random buffer. I will probably do a 3-step process from Meguiars (clearcoat cleaner, wax, polish)...and of course start with the clay bar. What type of buffer pad (material) do you guys recommend for each step? Also, do you guys usually wipe the product on with an applicator pad or something, then buff it out, or do you buff it on and off? If you buff on/off, do you switch out pads each time? Also, what types of cloths do you use for the small spots, etc.? I usually get good results on other cars, but want to do the best on my stang!

Thanks!
 
I would be careful with the generic buffers, they can cause more work then they relieve. They dont have enough torque or speed to really work the cleaners into the paint / clearcoat. Most of the buffers (Generic) only get up to about 1500 to 2000rpm while the PC polishers will start at about 200 and work up to 6000rpm.

Using it to apply and remove waxes or sealants is fine, but I really would not use it to apply the paint cleaner.

A Dual Action polisher such as the Porter Cable PC7224 or PC7336 would be a great one to use. It can give you the same results that a $400.00 rotary will with a lot less risk to paint damage.

Normally the pads will sepend upon the paint condition. Lots of swirls / scratches / spider webs in the clear or staining will usually call for a medium to light cutting pad. Work the area well until the cleaner is worked into the paint. It can take several passes to get it how you like it.

A polishing / buffing pad for the sealants and a final / finish pad for the toppers.