Buying a 5.8 swapped Stang, anything I should be aware of?

I've been shopping for a mustang for the last few months, waiting for the right opportunity.

A '94 GT just came up that has a 351W stroked to 427, but no records of the build.

I know it would be impossible to tell if it's a real 427 without taking the motor apart, but I still want to check this car out.

What should I be looking for so that I can verify it's a 5.8 and not a 5.0? I've seen plenty of 5.0 engines in my life, but what are some standout differences I can use to ensure it has a 351?
 
  • Sponsors (?)


The width of the engine, the distance between the intake manifold bolts measured across the lifter valley is wider on a 351W.
 
I checked out the car last night and was very into it. The owner is having it detailed, replacing a torn bushing on one of the A arms and getting the car "smogged." The plan is to meet back up on Wednesday after everything is ready and make a deal.

This will be the first Mustang I've ever owned, is there anything I should be on the lookout for or double check for before pulling the trigger?

Car has a 351w swap supposedly stroked to 427 (no paperwork to verify), T56 transmission,
D&D front K member and tubular A arms,
Maximum MotorSports front coil overs with adjustable Koni shocks, power rack and pinion, adjustable caster and camber plates and subframe connectors.

Everything was installed 7 years ago.
 
...This will be the first Mustang I've ever owned, is there anything I should be on the lookout for or double check for before pulling the trigger?...
Everything. Your brief description indicates some quality components. Highly modified cars need an expert to see the car in person & drive it.
The best you can do here is provide lots of pictures.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
I'm suspicious when people claim stroked/poked or punched out engine specs without paperwork. Sometimes even with paperwork. No way to verify without a teardown even with paperwork.
Just say'n.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
It does sound like a quality build.
You should be able to physically tell it's a 351.
The heads and intake will probably give you a better idea of whether it's really a stroked engine.
Without the paperwork you can't ever be sure, but if you go there and it has stock 351 heads on it, assume it's not a 427.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
He's owned the car for 3 years and put 20k miles on it. It was originally built 4 years prior to him buying it and sat outside the whole time, not being driven at all.

He's put it up for sale a few times during the time he's owned it, I think the ad was first made when he initially bought the car, which is why it states that it's still under the 1000 mile break in period, which it's not.
 
It does look like a decent car.
Although 580hp is a bold claim (even at the crank), that would mean it has about 500rwhp all motor.
Possible? I'd say so.
Likely? I think i'd need proof.
Strap a whipple on it and you will be at 727hp? Quite a specific on the output, huh.
Um, it's a pushrod engine and while I've heard a whipple can be done, I've yet to ever see it.
Very street friendly? With that intake and 500rwhp all motor. Doubt it.
It really only takes a few words to spook me when speaking about of the purchase of a highly modified car and i'm spooked at 12 grand.
Did someone invest 40 grand? Probably.

If you like the 94/95 cars, i'd spend that money on a cobra.
They can be had pretty cheap and if you decide to move on, you can get all your money back.

For your first mustang, this car could be a dream or a nightmare.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
It does look like a decent car.
Although 580hp is a bold claim (even at the crank), that would mean it has about 500rwhp all motor.
Possible? I'd say so.
Likely? I think i'd need proof.
Strap a whipple on it and you will be at 727hp? Quite a specific on the output, huh.
Um, it's a pushrod engine and while I've heard a whipple can be done, I've yet to ever see it.
Very street friendly? With that intake and 500rwhp all motor. Doubt it.
It really only takes a few words to spook me when speaking about of the purchase of a highly modified car and i'm spooked at 12 grand.
Did someone invest 40 grand? Probably.

If you like the 94/95 cars, i'd spend that money on a cobra.
They can be had pretty cheap and if you decide to move on, you can get all your money back.

For your first mustang, this car could be a dream or a nightmare.

I agree with you 100% in regards to the hp and torque claims, especially with no dyno sheets.

The main thing that appeals to me is that it already has a motor swap, which is the direction I'd like to go if I were to buy a 5.0 or 4.6 Mustang. I feel like the price of the car is what I'd spend doing a 351w swap alone in a vehicle that didn't have one.

I guess the biggest question is how reliable it'll be since it's used versus if I bought a car and did a swap myself, which also sounds like it could be a huge pain in the ass and lots of $$$
 
All the stuff that has been done to it and only 12k makes me suspect.

I'm not so sure about that.
Even if that car is 100% legit and properly working, I still wouldn't pay 12 for it.
It's a 94/95, while I have nothing against them, 12k is pretty good money for that model.
Consider that at 20-25k you could buy a NA Saleen s351 or a 95 cobra R.
Or even move up to a 03/04 cobra for just a few more thousand more than that 12k.

Not many cars are worth dumping money into, but some are worse than others...
 
I find it odd he says you can put a whipple on it, when they don’t make a whipple that’ll fit a pushrod ford.

All time easiest way to tell if it’s a 9.5 deck is to look at where the distributor goes into the block. If it’s damn near flush with the China wall, it’s an 8.2. If it’s a good bit lower, it’s a 9.5 deck.

0A40F9B4-829B-4698-8483-446EFB37E065.jpeg
E4363841-44CA-4FEE-BAD3-55C4E27CAA35.jpeg

Top is 8.2, bottom 9.5. It it’s not a 5.8 deck then you can pretty much discount the entire description as bs.

If it’s true though, it’s a lot of car for the money. Would cost you a helluva lot more to do yourself.
 
  • Like
  • Useful
Reactions: 1 users
Go for a ride, see how it feels. If it does everything it’s supposed to, I’d scoop it up. It has a lot of money tied up into it (if you can verify the parts visually), especially if it’s freshly painted as well. Good 94-95 cars are getting rarer.
 
  • Agree
Reactions: 1 user
I find it odd he says you can put a whipple on it, when they don’t make a whipple that’ll fit a pushrod ford.

All time easiest way to tell if it’s a 9.5 deck is to look at where the distributor goes into the block. If it’s damn near flush with the China wall, it’s an 8.2. If it’s a good bit lower, it’s a 9.5 deck.

0A40F9B4-829B-4698-8483-446EFB37E065.jpeg
E4363841-44CA-4FEE-BAD3-55C4E27CAA35.jpeg

Top is 8.2, bottom 9.5. It it’s not a 5.8 deck then you can pretty much discount the entire description as bs.

If it’s true though, it’s a lot of car for the money. Would cost you a helluva lot more to do yourself.

Sorry I'm not familiar with what an 8.2 deck or 9.5 deck are. Can you please explain what this is