Cam Change = Firing Order Change= Injector Change

Your whole situating sucks man !!! I feel your pain.

If I were you I'd change the MAF to match the 42lb injectors first. That needs to be done anyway so no loss there. I'd then replace the TFI with a known good one. Then as a last resort I'd change the ECM with a known good one.

I have an a9m but I'm not 100% that I want to sell it. I also have an OTC breakout box that helps check the computer and the harness pin outs and sensor outputs for our eecIV systems

You're in PA correct ?
 
I'm not saying the setup is correct but keep in mind I took out 42# injectors and it was running good, doesn't make sense that it would run this way because I reduced the injector size. If I unplug the MAF the engine almost dies.
I can actually pull 3 plug wires off and not hear much of a difference in the engine.
While doing some more testing this morning I pulled the #1 & 2 injector connector and the engine didn't change much at all.
I scrapped the melted dist. cap off the old dist. and found the ford ID# and it matches the new one, they are the same.
I also noticed that it's using gas at a very fast rate, almost 5 gallons in 2 trips around the block and maybe and hour of idling.
It has to be running very rich, it burns your eyes and there is a slight bit of blue smoke out the exhaust, not oil burning.
I'm thinking that some of the injectors are possibly staying on all the time and pumping a lot of gas through the motor. Could this be possible? Would this cause the plug to be all black and sooty?
And before you ask, I checked and there isn't any gas in the oil.
I opened up the ecu to take a look inside and there is no visible sign of problem.
So I'm throwing up the white flag, I have a couple friends who run there own auto shops and I'm going to get one of them to take a look at it.
Does it make sense that you have the wrong MAF for your injectors?

It is just fine to go looking for other things that may be wrong. But, that car will never run right with the MAF injector setup you have right now.

Just want to make sure that makes sense... It's real easy to get distracted in these threads....
 
Have you used the noid light thing yet? That will show you if the injector is getting a pulse signal or steady power that will hold the injector open,
Yea, I agree with getting a second pair of eyes on this dilemma.
 
Your whole situating sucks man !!! I feel your pain.

If I were you I'd change the MAF to match the 42lb injectors first. That needs to be done anyway so no loss there. I'd then replace the TFI with a known good one. Then as a last resort I'd change the ECM with a known good one.

I have an a9m but I'm not 100% that I want to sell it. I also have an OTC breakout box that helps check the computer and the harness pin outs and sensor outputs for our eecIV systems

You're in PA correct ?
What is all this concern about MAF, I'm confused. It now has a Ford E9ZF-12B579-AA MAF sensor I can't find the specs on it but it worked good with the 42# injectors before the fire. I don't see why it shouldn't work ok with the 24#. It might not be perfect but I don't think it would cause this type of problem.
What MAF should I have?
This OTC box, does it test the ecu free of the car.
Thanks for chiming in.
And yes I live near Gettysburg, Pa.
 
Have you used the noid light thing yet? That will show you if the injector is getting a pulse signal or steady power that will hold the injector open,
Yea, I agree with getting a second pair of eyes on this dilemma.
No, haven't checked on that yet. truth is I can only reach 3 injectors without removing the upper intake and then I can't run the motor anyway so I'm not sure it will tell me anything.
I saw a utube video where they used a 12v test light on the injector and it just flickered a little, when I tried it, it just stayed on. ??
 
Snap a pic when you get a chance
You are getting a constant power feed to the injector, I think you said you have a jy distributor? Maybe a pip problem, looking at the checklist jrichker provides shows the black (pepper) 10 pin connector is for the injectors, look at 5a in the list and check for a problem, I'm thinking you have a bad pip in that distributor if I understand how it works correctly.
You only need to check one injector connection with the noid light I think. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong
 
The MAF should be calibrated for the size injectors that you have in the car. The previous 42lb ones would call for a 42lb calibrated MAF....the 24lb in now call for a 24lb calibrated MAF. I have ran 24lb injectors on a stock computer and MAF but it ran pig rich at idle and driving. You could see the black smoke and it would burn your eyes right out of your head. I couldn't imagine running 42lb injectors on a stock computer and MAF.

This is what you need...
Screenshot_2017-07-08-21-31-44.webp


I believe the injectors are triggered on the ground side so they have constant hot with ignition on.

I'm in southern Maryland about 2hrs south and to the east of Washington DC. That's about 4 hours from you. The next few weeks are rely busy for me. I won't be able to do anything until August but I want to help you out.

Its got to be something simple. If you can remove the computer cover and take a picture we may be able to identify a burned trace on the board. Typically, if the harness shorts out it will burn the ground circuit in the ECU....but the car would not start at all....and the fuel pump would not prime.

It got to be something very simple. If the PO had those 42lb injector in there an working there's only one other way to do it and that's with a chip installed in the computer...it usually sticks in the computer box.
 
I was thinking that it was a ground signal that triggered the injector, so he should have constant voltage on one side of injection plug? He will do the noid light test when his friend comes over I'm sure.
 
To reiterate what 90sickfox stated...

The MAF ecu injector combo has to be right. If any one of these is changed, it will affect the others. Remove the housing and look for markings on the underside. Was the a tuning chip in the ecu?


As of right now, your MAF, ecu, injector combo is messed up.
It is wrong, and the car will never run right the way it is. Fix it!!! Then you can look for other issues

I would not do anything but bench test the Ignition module until the MAF setup is right.

Injectors have constant (+), and are triggered on the neg side.
 
To reiterate what 90sickfox stated...

The MAF ecu injector combo has to be right. If any one of these is changed, it will affect the others. Remove the housing and look for markings on the underside. Was the a tuning chip in the ecu?


As of right now, your MAF, ecu, injector combo is messed up.
It is wrong, and the car will never run right the way it is. Fix it!!! Then you can look for other issues

I would not do anything but bench test the Ignition module until the MAF setup is right.

Injectors have constant (+), and are triggered on the neg side.
I've been trying to fix it but I'm not going to just throw parts at it till something works.
So I opened up the ecu and didn't see anything obvious, there was no tuning chip attached.
Can the MAF settings be changed somehow in the ecu or do I have to get another MAF?
Can some one find the specs on the one I have. E9ZF-12B579-AA MAF sensor?
Yes the injectors have a constant 12v supply and if you put a test light on the neg. side the light will come on but when the ecu makes the circuit the test light should go out or flicker as it alternates on and off.
Stock maf housing or aftermarket?
where can I find the jy mod section you spoke about, is it here on this site?
 
Getting the right MAF isn't throwing parts at it hoping to get lucky...

It is a known issue.

Options
Swap out MAF for one calibrated for 24's.
Put the 42's back on, whatever the setup was that last ran well.
Put a tuner in the ecu and run current hardware.
Put 19's and junk yard MAF on the car.

You are pissing in the wind until you fix this.

Good luck,
 
Post pics of your current MAF top bottom front and back
Close ups of any markings
Here is what I'm running. Is a maf tunable, can it be recalibrated?
Apparently no one can tell me what the specs are of this maf?
 

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That maf should have a changeable sample tube. It is a C&L maf, I have one on my car but that one looks old style. You can get a sample tube for 24's or do this which I think is a better idea:

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. Youshould be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
You will need to adapt the 4 bolt flange, I have seen a couple that were cut off, just google maf adapter,
 
According to the e9zf part of the part number that MAF is for a stock mustang 5.0 with 19lb injectors. A stock MAF can't be tuned. The only way the stock ECU can be tuned is with an external chip that connects into the computer. There are a few different ones....
mustang-tuner-chip.webp
maxresdefault.webp


Without the MAF or chip the car won't run right.

If it ran with 42lb and the computer that's in it then it should run if everything that was in it was put back on.