Cam install this Sat., have questions.
- Thread starter 9 Deuce GT
- Start date
NO!! you do NOT need to loosen all of the oil pan bolts, and doing so will probally cause it too leak. you only need to remove the bolts under the timing cover, and on the sides, leave all the others alone. the are like two different size pan bolts going through each side under the cover through the pan if I remember, and a few others, but I wouldn't touch any of the other bolts.
DemonMustang
Founding Member
i can't remember but i don't even think you need to touch any of the oil pan bolts. But if you do just the first ones on each side.
Stang8URMPRT
Active Member
You have to remove 4 oil pan to timign cover bolts. the first two on each side on the front of the oil pan. If memory serves me correct, 2 are 1/2 inch and 2 are 3/8ths... You will see they go into the timing cover, and not the block. Make sure you use thread lock on the cam bolt when you reinstall it... If not, you could have it come loose on you, like it did me, and destroy the motor 
Other then that, it's straight forward. If you haven't thought about it.. replace the timing chain.. If not the whole set, atleast the chain if it has slack in it.
Nick
Other then that, it's straight forward. If you haven't thought about it.. replace the timing chain.. If not the whole set, atleast the chain if it has slack in it. Nick
Stang8URMPRT said:You have to remove 4 oil pan to timign cover bolts. the first two on each side on the front of the oil pan. If memory serves me correct, 2 are 1/2 inch and 2 are 3/8ths... You will see they go into the timing cover, and not the block. Make sure you use thread lock on the cam bolt when you reinstall it... If not, you could have it come loose on you, like it did me, and destroy the motor
Nick
Those socket sizes are correct
, just remember to clean all the gasket surfaces clean, I would suggest buying the front cover set with the new front oil seal. Tq everything to spec, and when you reinstall the lifters make sure the oil holes face up towards the head. Put a little blue Loctite on the cam retainer bolts, the cam bolt, and the lifter spyder hold down. Put assembly lube on the cam generously (you'll need to remove or drop the rad out of your way, along with the A/C condesor) use a cam holding tool or a long bolt as a handle to make removal and installation of the cam easier.
fords2fast4u
Founding Member
hey, I'm putting in a TFS stage one this weekend too, but it looks like they already answered your questions.... but I'd be interested to see what your power numbers were for that setup, as its simular to mine (with the exception of the heads)
darthcual
Member
I recently put an E303 in mine and i only loosend the bolt on the timing chain and after words i had two leaks so there might be so truth to that loosening the oil pan bolts. I fixed one leak at the front seal but i still have a leak from the oil pan to timing cover gasket. Be sure not to get in a hurry and you should be fine. Also be sure to follow the de-torquing specs for your lower manifold and then re torque it correctly. You dont wanna bend that thing.
Good Luck
DC
Good Luck
DC
Stang8URMPRT
Active Member
9 Deuce GT said:
Yep, it can be a pain... You need to make sure the front rubber oil pan seal does not squirt in the oil pan, or out the front.. You will know if it does, cause it will go in real easy... I like to use some 3M Weatherstripping glue on that front oil pan seal to keep it in place, so it doesn't move when installing it. Also, make sure you use a good bead of RTV Silicone on where the small oil pan gaskets meet the rest of the oil pan, and where the small oil pan gaskets meet the front rubber pan seal.. That should keep any leaks from occuring. Also, make sure to lube up the front main seal with oil before installing it.. This will keep it from being started "dry" and tearing the seal up. Good luck!
Nick
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