Can TPS cause random cutting out? Need advice

[281pony]

i had this problem before, and replacing my fuel pump fixed it. now it is back. my fuel pump doesnt even have 1k miles so im wondering if it can be the TPS somehow?

it starts out in fourth gear at 1500 rpm's. your going along, and it cuts out really quick. best way to describe other then that is like letting off the pedal real quick. it is now doing it in all gears, at all rpm's.

i ran the codes and im only getting two. one for tps circuit failure, and one for secondary fuel pump circuit failure. right after putting in the new pump it still had that error, so im leaning more towards this tps code.

anyone have a suggestion? should i replace the entire tps? or should i try a fuel pump relay? doesnt make sense how it just cuts out real quick like that and its the exact same thing a new fuel pump fixed.

 

[HISSIN50]

i would check the TPS voltage out. you have ground, 5 volt ref and the return (TPS is like a rheostat).
look for <0.99 volts closed throttle. then look for a nice sweep as you open the throttle (it will go close to 5 volts at WOT). be sure there are no dips or deadspots.
if you dont get all the readings to check out, dont forget the wiring to the TPS - might be an open wire.

good luck.

 

[281pony]

tps voltage seemed to be ok, never did it opening the throttle. dont have another person to push the pedal. neither do i have enough hands to hold it checking for voltage and opening the butterfly.

it says my tps circuit is what confuses me. i had a TPS code before, it was related to the voltage and it went away when i adjusted it. it is still fine, just the "circuit" now. so im thinking of just getting a new tps all together?

im also building my new motor, so im going to get a 50 gph inline pump instead of intank so hopefully that fixes it. for now though, it would be nice if just a tps would fix it.

 

[HISSIN50]

ok, gotcha. alligator clips or dental instruments (the dental picks) work well for acting as hands for you while testing this stuff. use aligator clips to hold the probes to the pick (some use safety pins too).
also, an analog VOM is best for watching the trend of the rheostat.

since you have an issue at part throttle (not idle) i would do more testing, myself (even if just to know it is not at fault). it would save you some money.

what was the code again (i cant remember and am too lazy to look)?

good luck.

 

[281pony]

lol i forgot the codes myself. ill go run them real quick

 

[281pony]

hmm ok.. now were back to 23, 67 and 95.

23- tps signal out of range
67 is neutral driveswitch. no biggie, since its in gear.
95- fuel pump secondary circuit fault

 

[281pony]

the code i was getting was 63.

63- throttle position circuit fault. below minimum voltage.

so 63 has disappeared on its own over the past couple days, and now come back to tps voltage? wtf.

 

[GREYFOX4INCH]

Did You Check The Modual On The Distributor? If It Is Bad Or Loose It Can Cause Spark To Be Cut Off. It Could Be For Split Seconds Or For Hours. Mine Was Loose Due To A Stripped Screw Hole On The Distributor. And Was Cutting Out Randomly Like A Missfire. Then It Started To Die For Minutes At A Time. Also If The Modual Is Old Heat Could Cause The Circuts Inside To Expand And Loose Connection For Periods Of Time As Well. $50 To Replace. Alittle Steep In My Opinion
Thats My Best Guess

 

[BlackGT89]

I believe most autoparts stores can check the TFI module for you. But if you haven't put one on in a while it's pretty good insurance to change it out.

Otherwise, you might want to check all your grounds and wiring connections that might be bad and cause the computer to throw those codes.