Car Left Me Stranded... UGH! HELP!!!

3 Shy of a full deck is normal.

You could try the jumper idea. Pin 13 is the primary ignition feed for the coils of the active relays - pay real attention to that pin.

you think its possible the heater core sprayed some coolant on the ignition switch?

Make sure you have enough room to hook that wire back up. lol.

Maybe You can test the CCRM if its grounded?

#11 is the load-side feed from the battery to the FP relay's common terminal.
The power from this wire (the yellow one at CCRM Pin 11) connects to CCRM Pin 5 when Pin 13 has 12 volts and Pin 18 shows continuity to ground.


It looks like the CCRM Pin 5 wire has a short or there is a short in that part of the circuit. With the yellow wire disconnected, Wire 11 never sees 12 volts so it won't blow your fuse. If the issue was with Pin 5/the yellow wire, it would blow immediately because it flows constant battery power. Pin 5 only gets hot when 11 and 13 have juice and 18 is grounded.

Have you been in the driver kick panel or rocker panel area (along the door sill)? Those are semi-common spots to have a short develop because the wires end up exposed after work is done and there is bare metal down there.

Anyhow, If pressed for time you might end up simply running a new wire from the output of the CCRM (Pin 5) to the back of the car. Dont forget to keep the inertia switch in-series so it's still functional.

Adam95GT said:

but i disconnected pin 5 and i still blow a fuse so how can the short be on the pin 5 wire??? but this short is definatly some where on 11 13 or 18 correct???

As soon as i jump the yellow wire in that connector accross the fuse blows out... my ignition has to be in the on position.... should i cut 13 or 18 and see if this stops the problem

ive been on the driver side kick pannel all is well

Click to expand...

When I refer to stuff below, assume the ignition switch is on:

Ok, I didnt understand before. So with everything connected normally except for Pin 5 (power to the fuel pump), the fuse still blows, right? As you noted, this would tend to rule out the wire to the pump.

The weird thing is that the yellow wire (11) should be hot at all times (so we know it's good except from your cut to where it connects inside the CCRM). So with it cut and everything else connected normally, the fuse is ok, right? The relay coil should still energize so that should rule out Pin 13's wire being at fault. I dont think this is the case though (see further down).

When 11 is cut, 5 is dead no matter what.

So it would seem that the short has to be in the relay itself - either the coil is broken (it happens). This would cause the fuse to blow when 13 sees power. Or there is a short on the load side of the relay (I've not seen that before, which certainly isnt to say it cannot happen).

If you run a jumper from 5 to 11 (on the body side of the cuts - you're trying to bypass the CCRM for this test), the fuse should not pop if our hypothesis is correct. Your fuel pump will come on. EDIT: the key doesnt even need to be on for this.

If this works and the fuse doesnt blow, I'd ensure the red/lt grn wire (13) doesnt have a short. If you have already cut this wire, run a new jumper wire to the CCRM side of the cut and see what happens. You could literally run fused-battery power to the CCRM side of 13, or even use a fused jumper from 11 to 13 (since 11 should be hot at all times).

It's lookin more and more like a bad relay in the CCRM because of the nice array of tests you've done Adam. I have the feeling the relay took a crap and is shorting out inside the CCRM. You test everything else deductively (as you have) and that's what's left.

If you have to, you can simply use a stand-alone SPST (or SPDT) relay to bypass the CCRM's FP relay. I HATE to recommend this because most aftermarket relays dont have a long lifespan and if the relay fails, as you know, the car stalls. I'm very worried about this from a safety perspective. But it should temporarily work.

Is it possible you got one or more wires pinched causing damage
when you had the tank down

Grady

I made an edit into a new post.

Yes they do go bad. This is why I have an extra one just in case.