Car Left Me Stranded... UGH! HELP!!!

#21
Heater core went so we by passed it... Um.... Headlights... but i already checked there for pinched wires... shocks and struts awhile back and my fuel pump....i unbolted and lifted up my upper intake to check the injectors... one was missing a little plastic but it wasnt touching anything... the rest were covered and looking fine... the EEC fuse only blows in the on position if the ignition switch fuses are inplace...

Ive had the fuel take down and the pump out the wires were still in great shape.. i tore out my center consul to find a mess of chopped wires... all stereo.... and i found a whole wireing harness that had been cut... along with a few crimped wires going to the ignition switch... i think this is all from an aftermarket alarm system that was installed b4 i bought the car... we pulled the ignition switch thingy out from under the dash... and checked for continuity like the hanyes manual says.... but its missing cont between the p1-p2 poles in the off position it looks like... but i dont think this is the problem.... ill take my camera over and take some pictures... i think ive gotten close... because yesterday it would at least start and cut out on bumps... now its just popping fuses when the key is turned to on...:bang: :mad:
 
#23
Un plugged the CCRM the wires look fine... the fuse blows as soon as i plug it back in... Is there anyway to jump the power and the ground to the CCRM and use a jumper wire to see what pops the fuse then follow that wire??? also does the connector soposed to have every pin mine looks like its 3 shy of a full set... does anyone know what pins are the ground and power....
 
#24
This is what ive gotten done... i think ive tracked down the wire... with the CCRM plugged in... and the connecter under the CAI unplugged the fuse stays fine.... I started jumping pins from the one connector to the other untill i found a wire that blew a fuse... It was a thick yellow wire that we traced with a tone device over to the EEC fuse... we clipped the tone device on the other side of the wire and traced it to #11 on the CCRM which if i read the diagram correctly goes to the fuelpump relay in the CCRM.... I spent some time looking at the diagram... Then realized that if i cut the #5 wire on the CCRM... For the fuel pump relay and the fuse still blew.... It has to be in the computer or before it..... SO we cut the #5 wire and there is still a short... Could my CCRM just be bad... or does this yellow fellow have a hole in it somewhere im not seeing????:shrug:
 
#25
3 Shy of a full deck is normal.

You could try the jumper idea. Pin 13 is the primary ignition feed for the coils of the active relays - pay real attention to that pin.
 
#28
no the ignition switch is good im pretty sure it was clean when i took it out... i think it has something to do with this yellow wire.... cause as soon as it is hooked up... the fuse pops...

when the ccrm is connected and this is unplugged the fuse dosent blow:
DSC00441.webp


DSC00442.webp


this runs through the top loom under the battery and EEC fuse
DSC00443.webp


And in the other direction in to the CCRM... wire #11 and from the diagram... it goes to the fuel pump relay... i cut wire #5 which goes to the fuel pump realy and the fuse still pops:
DSC00444.webp
 
#33
#11 is the load-side feed from the battery to the FP relay's common terminal.
The power from this wire (the yellow one at CCRM Pin 11) connects to CCRM Pin 5 when Pin 13 has 12 volts and Pin 18 shows continuity to ground.


It looks like the CCRM Pin 5 wire has a short or there is a short in that part of the circuit. With the yellow wire disconnected, Wire 11 never sees 12 volts so it won't blow your fuse. If the issue was with Pin 5/the yellow wire, it would blow immediately because it flows constant battery power. Pin 5 only gets hot when 11 and 13 have juice and 18 is grounded.

Have you been in the driver kick panel or rocker panel area (along the door sill)? Those are semi-common spots to have a short develop because the wires end up exposed after work is done and there is bare metal down there.

Anyhow, If pressed for time you might end up simply running a new wire from the output of the CCRM (Pin 5) to the back of the car. Dont forget to keep the inertia switch in-series so it's still functional.
 
#34
but i disconnected pin 5 and i still blow a fuse so how can the short be on the pin 5 wire??? but this short is definatly some where on 11 13 or 18 correct???

As soon as i jump the yellow wire in that connector accross the fuse blows out... my ignition has to be in the on position.... should i cut 13 or 18 and see if this stops the problem

ive been on the driver side kick pannel all is well
 
#35
Adam95GT said:
but i disconnected pin 5 and i still blow a fuse so how can the short be on the pin 5 wire??? but this short is definatly some where on 11 13 or 18 correct???

As soon as i jump the yellow wire in that connector accross the fuse blows out... my ignition has to be in the on position.... should i cut 13 or 18 and see if this stops the problem

ive been on the driver side kick pannel all is well
Click to expand...

When I refer to stuff below, assume the ignition switch is on:

Ok, I didnt understand before. So with everything connected normally except for Pin 5 (power to the fuel pump), the fuse still blows, right? As you noted, this would tend to rule out the wire to the pump.

The weird thing is that the yellow wire (11) should be hot at all times (so we know it's good except from your cut to where it connects inside the CCRM). So with it cut and everything else connected normally, the fuse is ok, right? The relay coil should still energize so that should rule out Pin 13's wire being at fault. I dont think this is the case though (see further down).

When 11 is cut, 5 is dead no matter what.

So it would seem that the short has to be in the relay itself - either the coil is broken (it happens). This would cause the fuse to blow when 13 sees power. Or there is a short on the load side of the relay (I've not seen that before, which certainly isnt to say it cannot happen).

If you run a jumper from 5 to 11 (on the body side of the cuts - you're trying to bypass the CCRM for this test), the fuse should not pop if our hypothesis is correct. Your fuel pump will come on. EDIT: the key doesnt even need to be on for this.

If this works and the fuse doesnt blow, I'd ensure the red/lt grn wire (13) doesnt have a short. If you have already cut this wire, run a new jumper wire to the CCRM side of the cut and see what happens. You could literally run fused-battery power to the CCRM side of 13, or even use a fused jumper from 11 to 13 (since 11 should be hot at all times).

It's lookin more and more like a bad relay in the CCRM because of the nice array of tests you've done Adam. I have the feeling the relay took a crap and is shorting out inside the CCRM. You test everything else deductively (as you have) and that's what's left.

If you have to, you can simply use a stand-alone SPST (or SPDT) relay to bypass the CCRM's FP relay. I HATE to recommend this because most aftermarket relays dont have a long lifespan and if the relay fails, as you know, the car stalls. I'm very worried about this from a safety perspective. But it should temporarily work.
 
#39
Grady i checked all that yesterday... i had the tank down and pump out... and checked all the wires they are all good... i think it is the relay... because when i hit a bump my rpms would drop and then the engine would kick back over... sounds like a fuel problem to me... so i know its something with this circuit... im gonna jump it today... and start looking for a new CCRM to test... thanks guys... keep the ideas comming
 
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