Help!!! Today I decided to clean the cobb webs out of the car and took a little spin. Well, needless to say, I stopped at a gas station and the car would not start after that. I ended up having to push start it. Got is back home, and tried to figure this out. But I don't know **** about the electrical system. My father and buddy were there to help me. We took a test light to the starter selinoid. There is power at the selinoid, but there is no power coming from the ingition switch. How is the ignition switch tied into the sytem? My understanding is that the started switch goes into the neutral saftey switch, and from there to the selinoid. Can anyone school me on this please?
Car won't start!
- Thread starter 9 Deuce GT
- Start date
There's a diagram showing where verything goes. Tmoss made the diagram and Stang&2Birds is the website host. Pretty much, that's the picture jrichker would post when he see's this...I just happened to see it first.
There's a little "screw" type of connection at the top of the starter solonoid/relay w/ a little red wire on it...that's what tells the relay to engage when you turn the key. I suppose you tested it for 12v w/ a voltmeter when you turned the key. If it's not getting 12v, then you are correct, the clutch interlock switch is next when working backwards.
Are you sure the starter solonoid/relay (same thing) is good? You can test it by first putting the car in neutral and put the emergency brake on. Even chocking the wheels w/ a brick or something would not be a bad idea. Then, you can take a screwdriver and touch both posts on the relay w/ it. Be careful for sparks. Once you touch them, the starter should turn over. If it does, the relay is good; if not, the relay is probably bad.
If the relay is good, I'd probably use the voltmeter and check 12v before and after the clutch interlock switch when turning the key w/ the clutch pressed in.
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We took a jumper wire and went from the battery to the starter power wire and the car started. So then we took a test light to the red wire with grey tracer coming the the wire harness to the small screw type post on the solonoid. There is no power coming from there with the key on. We then tried the neutral saftey switch. Ther is no power from either side of the switch. Where is the next spot to check? This may be a dumb question, but where is the connector in the picture above?
I was looking through the Haynes manual I have, and I believe the ignition switch is in the steering colunm. Is this correct? Is it possible for the switch to be bad and still hear the fuel pump kick on when the key is turned to the on position? Also the dash lights still light up. What is the best way to test to see if the switch is bad?
Can the switch be boughten at the local parts store?
Can the switch be boughten at the local parts store?
The ignition switch is a frequent failure item on 87-93 Mustangs. The auto parts store will have them for $12-$15.
There is a Ford recall for a free replacement, but you have to drive the car there and let them replace it. They will not give you the part. If they install it, they are relieved of any legal problems that might arise because of the failure of the old switch.
There is a Ford recall for a free replacement, but you have to drive the car there and let them replace it. They will not give you the part. If they install it, they are relieved of any legal problems that might arise because of the failure of the old switch.
Well, I think I may have found the problem. We tried to find where the test light would pick up power and where it would not. I ended up tearing the dash/column apart to get a look at the ignition switch. I intenionally did not mention that the car had a Viper alarm, as to try to learn the Ford ignition system through the help of you guy's. I was afraid that the first thing everyone suspected would be the alarm and the ****ty craftsmanship that the installer used. And let me tell you, it is ****ty. It's a good thing that the alarm was installed during the previous owners time, because if I had this thing put on, I would find the guy who did it and strangle him.
Anyway, I thank you guys for the help. By first learning the basics of the Ford system, I was able to trace the problem. The ingition switch has a white with pink wire going into the connector. The alarm installer snipped this wire and many others to tie in the alarm computer (or whatever it's called) and a cheesy relay. They are 2 seperate pieces and it created even more crappy wire work by the genious installer. Needless to say, the relay is bad. I tried bypassing the relay just to see if it would start, and it did. So I bought a new relay for $12, and will rewire the alarm and put it back together this week.
Again thanks for all of your help, it is greatly appreciated.
Anyway, I thank you guys for the help. By first learning the basics of the Ford system, I was able to trace the problem. The ingition switch has a white with pink wire going into the connector. The alarm installer snipped this wire and many others to tie in the alarm computer (or whatever it's called) and a cheesy relay. They are 2 seperate pieces and it created even more crappy wire work by the genious installer. Needless to say, the relay is bad. I tried bypassing the relay just to see if it would start, and it did. So I bought a new relay for $12, and will rewire the alarm and put it back together this week.
Again thanks for all of your help, it is greatly appreciated.
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