Carbed 5.0

madmike1157,

There's no point in getting defensive. If you feel safe using that part, go for it. If someone asks for advice/opinions, they won't always be the "YEAH DUDE GO FOR IT!" variety.

Like i said...i installed one, and i saw nothing but sketchy fuel pressure readings, and it can only be hooked up one way so it's not like it wasn't installed correctly. I was even tempted to install a secondary regulator after the bypass regulator...but i just didn't feel safe doing it.

Oh, and Webers aren't that hard to tune...they make tools to dial them in and you go in a sequence.

85_SS_302_Coupe said:

madmike1157,

Oh, and Webers aren't that hard to tune...they make tools to dial them in and you go in a sequence.

Click to expand...

All the the tool does is to help syncronize the throttle opening. The rest of the tune is done by ear and observation. Sync the throttle opening on 4 sets of throttle butterflies and the rest of the settings 8 times, and even if it is a simple process, it represents a lot of work and time.

85_SS_302_Coupe said:

madmike1157,

There's no point in getting defensive. If you feel safe using that part, go for it. If someone asks for advice/opinions, they won't always be the "YEAH DUDE GO FOR IT!" variety.

Like i said...i installed one, and i saw nothing but sketchy fuel pressure readings, and it can only be hooked up one way so it's not like it wasn't installed correctly. I was even tempted to install a secondary regulator after the bypass regulator...but i just didn't feel safe doing it.

Oh, and Webers aren't that hard to tune...they make tools to dial them in and you go in a sequence.

Click to expand...

For the record; I'm not getting defensive. You advised the guy against using a FP regulator that you had problems with. You may have had a defective unit, (it wouldn't be the first time one product was simply defective and not typical of the entire offering of that product) But,...you didn't replace it, instead you did whatever else and are now dogging that model as crap.
a $90.00 potential fire hazard is about how you worded it.
Return regulators are pretty simple. I'm sure you know that there is a spring that the PUMP pressure has to overcome once the regulator is set. The fact that it is a return regulator, is pretty much keeping that problem in check. The same principle that works w/o incident on the stock EFI engine.
If you had one that allowed pressure to surge +- 6-7 PSI then I too would've been justifiably concerned as well. But I'm the guy that will not just throw away something if it doesn't work w/o checking to make sure it, or something else is the problem,.. call the guy that made it,... determine if I got a bad unit, replace it w/ the same, AND if it's still junk,....dog that product for what it is.
A conventional, non-return regulator might be a different situation since it basically is a fixed restriction and does allow FP to spike when flow stops.
Most return regulators don't have the range to restrict EFI pressures down to carb pressures, but for the ones that are built specifically for it....well, here's a problem,...There's a possible fix.

I believe you advised the guy to replace the tank. As the right way to do it, I agreed w/ you.
But there is almost always more than one way to do something,other "fixes" that aren't going to compromise the safety of the driver.

W/ regard to the Webers, I understand there are tools and a methodology to setting/tuning them. I'd have no problem with it.Have looked into it a few times, but the price always keeps killing me. But where the last few threads have had issues where a carb or adding multiple carbs was the question, almost every other reply has been about how much tuning is required to make it work.... how unreliable a carb is, how antiquated a carb is... on that note, the Webers are sombodys' wake up screaming nightmare.

Back to the original point, I swapped my 93 to carb the right way. I did it because I had severe damage to the efi harness that resulted in my having to track down a new setup. Expensive. Im not driving the car daily anymore so I built a new 331, topped it with edelbrock heads, gold comp rockers, . 500" cam, and am edelbrock carb. I did have to completely repair and modify my chassis harness including ignition switch and clutch switch to get it to work. Works great, fires right up. I used a blue holley pump and regulator, ditched the efi pump, but retained the hanger so I could pull the gas from there with gravity feed. Last was an msd dizzy for carb with proper gear for hydraulic cam, and an msd 6al to handle spark, no duraspark for me thanks

Not a lazy guy at all, and I am more than capable of working efi mustangs, been doing it since 90. I just had too many melted wires, damaged connectors, etc to go repair.