- Mar 2, 2015
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You got nothing with starter fluid....and I see the noid light is firing. That means the injectors are getting power....( likely not computer )... The fuel system has correct pressure ( likely not fuel ). The addition of starter fluid will start the car or pop through the intake or exhaust if timing is a little off. Timing would have to be way off or spark would have to be weak or missing.
Take the coil plug wire loose from the distributor and stick a screw driver in the end. Lay it in a way that barely touches some metal on the engine. When you crank the car it should be a bright blue white spark. Not orange or yellow.
Also, if you haven't check your engine grounds. Should be a battery wire running from the block at the timing cover or power steering bracket. It should run to the drivers side sway bar mount below the battery...and up to the battery. There should be a mesh wire strap from the rear top of intake to the firewall by where the speedometer or clutch cable goes through. ( green screw ).
Those grounds can cause types of issues like that. Make sure the computer ground is clean and tight ( black wire screwed between battery and starter solenoid ).
A vehicle needs air, fuel, spark, time, and compression to start. Compression won't come and go....neither will timing.
It sounds like something spark related. The coil, coil wire, TFI ( already replaced ) or pick up in distributor ( already replaced ? ). The pickup inside the distributor calls for the distributor to be removed and taken apart. The gear will have to be removed and the shaft of the distributor pulled out to access the pick up for replacement. The pickup controls the timing of the injectors. The starter fluid nullifies that being an issue. It would fire up with addition of starter fluid. If the distributor is loose it can cause issues with starting because timing could move. This isn't likely in your situation because it happened and then fixed itself and drove normal. Once the timing moves it doesn't move back car would run different.
If the spout is pulled out the car will start at mechanical timing....bypassing any set timing in chip. The other cause could be that it's trying to start pig rich. That would be verified by wet spark plugs. At that point the plugs are fouled with fuel and need to be cleaned off and dried. If its rich starting fluid would not start it either in some cases.
Take the coil plug wire loose from the distributor and stick a screw driver in the end. Lay it in a way that barely touches some metal on the engine. When you crank the car it should be a bright blue white spark. Not orange or yellow.
Also, if you haven't check your engine grounds. Should be a battery wire running from the block at the timing cover or power steering bracket. It should run to the drivers side sway bar mount below the battery...and up to the battery. There should be a mesh wire strap from the rear top of intake to the firewall by where the speedometer or clutch cable goes through. ( green screw ).
Those grounds can cause types of issues like that. Make sure the computer ground is clean and tight ( black wire screwed between battery and starter solenoid ).
A vehicle needs air, fuel, spark, time, and compression to start. Compression won't come and go....neither will timing.
It sounds like something spark related. The coil, coil wire, TFI ( already replaced ) or pick up in distributor ( already replaced ? ). The pickup inside the distributor calls for the distributor to be removed and taken apart. The gear will have to be removed and the shaft of the distributor pulled out to access the pick up for replacement. The pickup controls the timing of the injectors. The starter fluid nullifies that being an issue. It would fire up with addition of starter fluid. If the distributor is loose it can cause issues with starting because timing could move. This isn't likely in your situation because it happened and then fixed itself and drove normal. Once the timing moves it doesn't move back car would run different.
If the spout is pulled out the car will start at mechanical timing....bypassing any set timing in chip. The other cause could be that it's trying to start pig rich. That would be verified by wet spark plugs. At that point the plugs are fouled with fuel and need to be cleaned off and dried. If its rich starting fluid would not start it either in some cases.
it’s gonna crank I know bc it’s all clear. Had an extra cap/rotor as well tfi he brought with him, said let me try and fire it up and got damn it she cranks up! Turned it off let it sit for a few minutes while we laugh on the fact that THIS JUST HAPPENED! For over a week it hasn’t wanted to crank up and now bang. He is mad bc now it’s that game of wtf was it and I’m happy bc the car started. Strange!!! I decided to pull out the A9L and take a look at it. First off I’ve never really seen a chipped computer but seems like weird fitment how it bangs into the capacitors but maybe that’s just normal. So I’m looking at the board and the capacitors seem a little beat especially the one that the SCT chip is pushing forward and has some black gushy crap coming out the bottom of it. I don’t know crap about what I’m looking at or what all these things do but do you guys think this could be causing issues with what’s going with the car? Is this board still looking ok? Appreciate everyone’s help! At this point I closed everything back up and plugged the harness back up and gave it another start after that last night and it cranked up.
