Changing Things Up This Season...1st Track Outing!

Every year Grassroots Motorsports does a tire test for autocross tires to find the best grip tires. Usually the winning tire is pretty expensive, But the barely second or third place tires are often pretty inexpensive Hankook or Khumo. Autocross is 200 or higher treadwear. 260 is probably a little tougher standard to meet. A wide 15" fitment is probably not available in most performance tires though. I would think you would be better off with some sort of 18" in a non drag-radial class. Understand you are trying not to spend and working with what you have. But ... futura.
I had some form of Futura tires on my Fox when I bought it. They certainly would prevent any traction related wear and tear on your car components.
 
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This came today...

20170403_192239.webp


I also rolled my fenders in the rear and set a date for my 1st outing next month...motor only this go around.

Joe
 
I am seriously thinking about that controller. With a window switch,you still have to buy and wire relays and all you have is a window switch. That piece does so much more.

I agree. The benefits are great. No relays, no WOT switch, a lot of options for just a few hundred bucks and it keeps the wiring simple.

I like that you're starting to see more and more events like these that are geared to keep costs down and fun level high. Are you required to run all seasons?

Out of the 3 tracks, 2 do not. I really Don't know about the 3rd, but we will see.

Joe
 
I like that you're starting to see more and more events like these that are geared to keep costs down and fun level high. Are you required to run all seasons?

I mis-read your post. I thought you were asking if you had to attend every race of the Season. Yes, you have to run all season tires. No drag radials Slicks or specialty tires.

Joe
 
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So the last big purchase for the nitrous kit was the NX wet conversion (my kit is a dry kit). This retails in the $325-$350 range and I have been shopping it around for a while. The other night I happen to see that the Amazon warehouse has one on their shelf, at "strike through pricing", for the small sum of $87! I bought it thinking that it will not be the right thing, but it shows up at the house and is correct.

All I need now are a few relays, some misc wiring materials, and about 8 hours uninterrupted in the garage. I am sure you guys know which one will be hard to come by.

I do have one question about spark plugs. I currently run autolite copper 3924 plugs with my afr heads. They are 1 step colder than stock I believe. Looking at grabbing some 3923 plugs for the spray. Does this sound about right? @srtthis @mikestang63 @84Ttop

Joe
 
I would start there if you are planning on 100hp or less for the kit. That is a smoking deal on the NX kit. I actually prefer the dry kit as the wet ones sometimes lead to puddling of fuel in the upper- at least the older kits did when I messed around with Nitrous 15-20 years ago.. Does the kit come with a window swtich, purge kit, bottle pressure gauge? Also, I'm not a fan of the WOT throttle positon switches. Does this one tie into the TPS?
 
I would start there if you are planning on 100hp or less for the kit. That is a smoking deal on the NX kit. I actually prefer the dry kit as the wet ones sometimes lead to puddling of fuel in the upper- at least the older kits did when I messed around with Nitrous 15-20 years ago.. Does the kit come with a window swtich, purge kit, bottle pressure gauge? Also, I'm not a fan of the WOT throttle positon switches. Does this one tie into the TPS?

Just a recap: I bought a universal dry kit almost 2 years ago, used, for $300 (adds fuel through tuning). It came with kit, ashtray switches, bottle warmer, tps switch, zex traction switch, fuel safety switch, purge, maybe a few other things.

I sold off the zex stuff, bought a NX spray bar for my HSMII intake, NOS mini progressive and now the wet conversion kit (fuel solenoid and all lines, hardware and jets). All together I have spent just shy of $600. The spray bar will handle 2 stages, with each stage being 35-150 hp each. I plan on starting at 100 and staying there for the most part.

The mini controller has a window switch built in and is capable of using the tps or wot switch. I will go tps.

Joe
 
id go NGK while you are tuning it. if there is a mishap and you knock a strap off an autolite no chance it didnt knock the piston out in that hole. with an NGK there is a chance the piston is still ok.

you should be ok with 1 heat range... hell with 100 only you should be ok with a stock heat range.
i ran stock plugs on a 150 shot. moved to the colder plugs when i went to a 250 shot
 
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id go NGK while you are tuning it. if there is a mishap and you knock a strap off an autolite no chance it didnt knock the piston out in that hole. with an NGK there is a chance the piston is still ok.

you should be ok with 1 heat range... hell with 100 only you should be ok with a stock heat range.
i ran stock plugs on a 150 shot. moved to the colder plugs when i went to a 250 shot

The NGK's have a different heat range rating. Do you have a recommendation on what number to use?

Joe
 
I just went one colder than stock for 100-150 but went 2 ranges colder at 175. When I talked to NX last year about this he said to be safe...go colder every 75hp. I would think one would suffice at 100. I never had a problem...:shrug:
 
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The NGK's have a different heat range rating. Do you have a recommendation on what number to use?

Joe
TFS, Edelbrock, and AFR Heads:
[14mm, 3/4" Reach, 5/8" Hex, gasket seat]
AUTOLITE
1 step colder--3924 (4) [*recommended starting point]
2 step colder--3923 (3)
-----AR3933 (3) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----AR3932 (2) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----AR3931 (1) [*recessed tip, racing plug]

NGK
1 step colder--(FR5) 3686 (5) [*recommended starting point]
2 step colder--(BKR6EY) 3696 (6)
-----(R5671A-8) 4554 (8) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----(R5671A-9) 5238 (9) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----(R5671A-10) 5820 (10) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
 
TFS, Edelbrock, and AFR Heads:
[14mm, 3/4" Reach, 5/8" Hex, gasket seat]
AUTOLITE
1 step colder--3924 (4) [*recommended starting point]
2 step colder--3923 (3)
-----AR3933 (3) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----AR3932 (2) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----AR3931 (1) [*recessed tip, racing plug]

NGK
1 step colder--(FR5) 3686 (5) [*recommended starting point]
2 step colder--(BKR6EY) 3696 (6)
-----(R5671A-8) 4554 (8) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----(R5671A-9) 5238 (9) [*recessed tip, racing plug]
-----(R5671A-10) 5820 (10) [*recessed tip, racing plug]

Thanks for that.

So would you recommend heat range 6, or the racing plugs at a heat range of 8? Is that overkill for such a mild combo? I might add that I would prefer not to go so extreme on the plugs that I can't drive it around with the NOS plugs in it if I needed to.

Joe