CHP motor ordered up.

Most if not all of the stroker cranks I am aware off were made to go 28oz, not 50oz. It all comes down to what rod and piston you are using also. A heavier piston/rod combo will need less taken out of the crank.

From what I know about the parts in the CHP motor I would go 28oz, with a good flywheel and balancer.
 
thanks aaron.


Like I said I am sticking to my guns and not looking back. I called up my guy again and had him change the plans to have the motor balanced to 28 oz. As well I picked up billet flywheel thru them for $150 and a new harmonic balancer for $120 (and spacer). Next is getting in contact with FTI and have them make up a cam for me now :uzi: I sent out the worksheet today so maybe they'll get back to me soon.
 
what is the going rate to fix my heads rick? Just a little history, I originally had a 306 built along with these heads. I assembled the motor by myself but, when it came to checking the p/v clearance I had a "professional" engine builder help me when it came to the clearances. Lets just say I followed his advice and ended up bending the valves. Not bad though since the motor ran actually, It ran for 6 months. The whole time the motor was running I had a constant "chatter" noise. I figured it was the roller rockers and that I'd just have to live with the lil chatter. Well here we are now, I have a busted 306 that needs 800 in repairs and Now I'm getting a 347. And NO I'll never go back to that "professional" engine builder ever again.
 
Well your going to need a valve job $125-$250, most likely guides $120+ w/ installation, and seals $30, setting up the heads could be $50-$100 (springs, retainers, pressures, etc)

Don't be surpirsed to put $600+ into those heads, I just re-did a set of Holleys for a customer and I have over that in them...same deal lots of damaged valves, guides, etc...

A local machine shop that does head work should be able to fix your stuff with no issues...
 
Well luckily for me, I just recieved my FTI PS3 spring kit And I already went directly to AFR for some new valves which I have in my pocession. I guess all I need is the guides if necassary, machining and assembly. Well Rick I know I did damage but, it wasn't to the point the motor didn't run right and the valves didn't go back into their original position. Well I am running low on funds for now so I might just stick with my cheapy MAC 1 5/8 shortie headers. I know the motor will be "ok" for now but I plan on some 1 3/4" long tubes, you think they'll help greatly??
 
OKAY this thread is back from the dead. AND let me tell you the motor is up and running. let me give you the run down of what it consists of.
CHP street fighter 347.
10.5:1
ed curtis custom cam
AFR 185s
track heat intake
1 3/4" long tube headers 2 1/2" pipes all the way back
36 lb injectors
76 MAF
70 TB
255 fuel pump
T-5
3.73 gears
have I missed anything?
waht do you guys think this motor will put to the wheels? I'm guessing 350-375 ish to the wheels. ???
 
2600-6200.

I wanted a weekend warrior kind of car (raced on the weekends). I know you are going to say why such a weak power range?? and it is due to the pedestal mount heads. That what I had to work with and i was not going to change any parts out for new ones. I'd be losing money and I was already spending crap loads as it was.
 
tony91723 said:
2600-6200.
I know you are going to say why such a weak power range?? and it is due to the pedestal mount heads.


I wasn't going to say that at all. Don't ASSume :) You'll be shifting around 6500 which is cool.

I say you'll hit around 375.

I'm doing my rear as we speak.
 
cool. didn't mean to get defensive on you. it's just I've been hearing it from everyone on "how" it should be done. sorry man. I'll be real happy with 375 then some go go juice I'll be flying.
 
Yeah tony...do what you want...some people like it done their way or the highway...do some research (as you did)...follow pros like Ed, and you'll get what you want...glad it is running!
 
this back from the dead. just to let you guys know I just dynoed my car today 6-4-06 with no computer tune tune and me tuning what I could ie; fuel pressure, timing etc. Well my best pull was 322 HP and 343 torque. On all three pulls the car ran super rich, to the point the lines fell off the graph (starting point 10:1) ::lol:: the tuner told me with a good tune and adjustments I'd easily see an additional 40HP or so.

As for my vibrating issues, pretty much CHP royally screwed up on my balancing of the motor. they tell me it was balanced to 28oz and sure enough they balance it to 50 oz. . In the end I lose out on a 150 dollar flywheel since I can't even use it and the shop I bought it from would not exchange it since it was installed and ran. my problem was solved by stuffing a stock flywheel and new weight on the dampner. and as for CHP on recommendations I don't think I'd recommend them due to their communication skills. thats it the end.

customer service: F
Eric (sales Manager) needs to communicate alittle bit better with his employees.

quality: A
 
A PMS or any other good tuning device will fix that rich issue very easily. Theres a lot of power to be gained if its that rich! You will also need to bypass the stock rev limiter so you can shift it where it needs to be shifted.

I wonder if you hurt the short block at all running the wrong balancer and flywheel?

Those numbers will skyrocket once you tune it. When I first got my 347 running and I put the wideband on it I did a few quick pulls on the street and saw my a/f was in the 11's. I dialed it all in perfect with my PMS.
 
I am not sure if the motor was hurt. I only ran it for about 15 minutes or so. the motor feels fine though. only time would tell I guess. but yeah I see huge room to grow, I'll keep you guys updated.