Fox Clutch preload?

[1990fox306]

So I've seen a few forums posts about this but could never come to a direct answer.
Am I supposed to put any preload on the clutch when adjusting? I have read that they put preload on from the factory, but after burning through 3 throw out bearings and 2 bearing retainers I'm concerned that the fact that the throw-out bearing spinning all the time is the issue.

Let me know if I don't get something or if I'm stupid! Thanks.

 

[Noobz347]

Your troubles in this scenario are due to low-quality parts. Everybody makes them cheaper while quality and durability go by the wayside.

I have had the best luck with OEM TOBs but they're not what they used to be.

Our TOBs were designed to spin all the time. At rest, the TOB should be firmly against the pressure plate with a bit of "slack" in the cable at full engagement.

Based on what's in your post, I'd say that you had it installed correctly.

There is one other place where I've gotten good/beefy TOBs and heard success stories from others...

Centerforce ® Accessories, Premium Throw Out Bearing / Clutch Release Bearing, Fits Ford/Mercury/Merkur Cars and Trucks

Each Throw Out Bearing (Release Bearing) sold by Centerforce is the highest quality available. In most application the bearing is a direct Original Equipment (O.E.) replacement. INCLUDES: T.O.B. Prem

www.centerforce.com

It's been years since I had to order one so I can't guarantee they are what they used to be either. Still... Their pressure plates are pretty heavy at full tilt so it stands to reason...

 

[HotFox]

I agree with Noobz, with a diagram clutch I found with mine that there needs to be the slightest amout of free load on it. This was a centerforce dual friction. If I back off the to the point of no contact with the fingers to the throw out bearing there was to much free play.

Now on my tractors there should be a air gap, but that is a different animal.

 

[1990fox306]

Your troubles in this scenario are due to low-quality parts. Everybody makes them cheaper while quality and durability go by the wayside.

I have had the best luck with OEM TOBs but they're not what they used to be.

Our TOBs were designed to spin all the time. At rest, the TOB should be firmly against the pressure plate with a bit of "slack" in the cable at full engagement.

Based on what's in your post, I'd say that you had it installed correctly.

There is one other place where I've gotten good/beefy TOBs and heard success stories from others...

Centerforce ® Accessories, Premium Throw Out Bearing / Clutch Release Bearing, Fits Ford/Mercury/Merkur Cars and Trucks

Each Throw Out Bearing (Release Bearing) sold by Centerforce is the highest quality available. In most application the bearing is a direct Original Equipment (O.E.) replacement. INCLUDES: T.O.B. Prem

www.centerforce.com

It's been years since I had to order one so I can't guarantee they are what they used to be either. Still... Their pressure plates are pretty heavy at full tilt so it stands to reason...

Definitely makes sense, but after the second throw out bearing I was hesitant to buy an expensive one because I figured it would shatter like the rest lol

Currently not a problem considering my car is currently scattered all around my house and I bought a new transmission. I figured I should see what I could figure out before it all goes back together and I cause problems.

Thanks!

 

[85GTStangGuy]

@Noobz347 - Any opinion on the FPP part?

Mustang Ford Performance Clutch Release (Throwout) Bearing | (79-04)

Use this quality replacement 1979-2004 Mustang throw out bearing from Ford Performance to make sure your clutch is engaging properly!

lmr.com

 

[AeroCoupe]

Godo write up on proper clutch cable adjustment by Maximum Motorsports:

How to Adjust a Mustang Clutch Cable

 

[1990fox306]

Since I've got a new trans, new cable, new quadrant, firewall adjuster, and clutch fork i guess dropping a little bit of money on the throwout bearing is the best idea
At this point I'm a professional at pulling the trans I could have it out and back in within 2 hours lol

Thanks for the help guys

 

[Noobz347]

@Noobz347 - Any opinion on the FPP part?

Mustang Ford Performance Clutch Release (Throwout) Bearing | (79-04)

Use this quality replacement 1979-2004 Mustang throw out bearing from Ford Performance to make sure your clutch is engaging properly!

lmr.com

Nothing I could attest to personally. I don't recall seeing anybody bad-mouthing them though.

 

[85GTStangGuy]

..... but after burning through ....... 2 bearing retainers......

Can't actually speak for it's use personally (though I have one in my parts stash for future use), but generally I am a fan of FPP parts....

https://lmr.com/item/M7050A/83-93-Mustang-Ford-Racing-50L-T-5-steel-Bearing-Retainer

 

[AeroCoupe]

I use RAM throw out bearings (run their clutches in both cars and the TB came with the clutch kit) but I would not be surprised if all the name brand units are not repackaged from one manufacturer. I do run FPP pilot bearings in the crank and have had zero issues.

 

[LX1993]

5-7# preload on throwout bearing. I use a cheap ass hanging fish scale on the fork arm. Only use the FRPP throwout bearing.

 

[85GTStangGuy]

5-7# preload on throwout bearing. I use a cheap ass hanging fish scale on the fork arm.

Can you explain exactly how this is done?

Only use the FRPP throwout bearing.

And you've never had an issue with it, I can then assume?

 

[LX1993]

Attach the hook of the scale on the end of clutch fork arm, pull & hold between 5-7#. Tighten clutch cable adjustment nut. Helps to have more than one pair of hands. And yes, the FRPP part is the only one I've ever had any luck with.

 

[Noobz347]

For the folks new to Fox Mustangs: Do not attempt without a firewall adjuster.


I just know that somebody: " How TF "

 

[FastDriver]

I haven't spent too much time worrying about this one. I know MM's site suggests otherwise, but I adjust it to the feel of the pedal. Hopefully, the way I like it is the way it's technically supposed to be or maybe it doesn't matter as much as it's made out to. I don't seem to go through a lot of TOBs, or anything.

 

[Noobz347]

I generally tighten it until the cable stretch is gone (pump the clutch a time or two to be sure) then loosen it until I feel play in the cable.

The advantage is that I can do it solo but still have to crawl between the FW adjuster and the other end of the cable to check.

 

[FastDriver]

That's just about how I do it, too.

 

[mikestang63]

FRPP throw out bearing
Centerforce clutch
Steed or MM cable
Firewall adjuster

LMR, Steeda, others have good instructions on how to adjust the cable. make sure you put a bit of grease on the clutch fork tabs and ball in in the bellhousing, Also, i would replace the clutch fork ball as they wear and can cause mis alignment. Most people overlook that $10 part