Cobra Intake Install Qaurrel.....

I just realized for the first time since owning this cobra intake for the past year that the egr port is built into the upper intake. my question is how do I go about routing the egr spacer? I just odered a 70mm bbk throttle body and spacer last night and im somewhat confused how this is gonna work. from what I see you dont run the spacer with the cobra intake but it seems like that would cause issues. Id like to know how you guys correctly bypass the spacer if needed. Also Id like to port match the intake to the tb but i dont want to blow through into the egr passage. anyone have any hints for me? Thanks for the info always appreciated!
 
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You don't run a spacer...it's built in. If you don't run the egr you need to block it off. Here is mine:
Edit: also that rubber hose coming from the nipple from the built in egr spacer in the front is NOT for the coolant hose from the hard pipes. That is not used on this intake. It is capped off on the hard pipes. That nipple is for the charcoal canister return line. I found out the hard way on that! :)

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You probably won't need to do much port matching to line up the TB, the intake opening should already be somewhat close. I wouldn't worry about breaking through the EGR passages. I had port matched my old STOCK 5.0 intake to fit a 70 without running into trouble.
 
For the rear coolant line, remove the fitting from the lower intake and install 3/8npt plug. For the front line, I cut the line short and stuck a short bolt in the line and clamped it tight. Hack, but short of brazing it closed, the only way

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Its been awhile since I installed mine but if I remember right last time I had the motor out and reinstalled I remember just running that EGR spacer coolant hose from one end of the heater tube to the other and chinch em down with small hose clamps so it just passes through. I need to do do something one day with that heater tube. I hate that thing.
 
ive read that if you simply cap off the coolant lines it upsets the coolant flow in the block
I have never heard that personally. All I know is mine has been fine so far. All I did was capped the nipples off with a rubber cap with rtv inside the cap. I let it setup a day or so before I ran the engine.
 
If you want to eliminate the hard heater lines you can run tubing from the water pump, hug the block and come back up to the heater core. some people may have clearance issues with headers. I have also seen a U with a NPT fitting for the temp sensor that goes between the feed/return on the water pump and does away with the hard line if you dont run a heater. Thread a cap into the intake to plug the hole and Bob's your uncle.
 
Im not really in a pinch to delete the hard lines but thats awesome info for future reference. I was thinking of just looping a hose from one outlet on the hard line to the other and calling it a day, ill probably just hide it by running it under the plenum for asthetic purposes of course.