Engine Cooling system Advice?

Balancer movement is not a problem, if you are pulling the timing cover it will have to come off anyway, I would suggest replacing that gasket too, it likely will leak if you don't.
While you have the balancer in hand I would replace it.
I use anti seize on the bolts for the cover and pump, coat the entire

Oh Yeah, all seals and gaskets will be replaced. :nice:Plan to use the copper antisieze. I’ve the zinc/silver freeze steel to aluminum under heat. Not a fan. Though it was on brakes someone had done to my nephews WRX, had to heilicoil them. Wishing I ordered the harmonic balancer when I bought everything. She isn’t to cracked but I will be ordering it ASAP.
 
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No way?! Really... always the little things. I was looking at the kit too but didn’t look at the price. Planning to reuse the cover. Honestly all the bolts came out perfectly. Even torque. Guess I got lucky, that or bc the car has been garaged it’s whole life. I was seriously shocked.
Sept. 29, 2019
When you think you have cleaned all the old gasket from the engine block, think again. The surface must be shiny cast iron again.

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BTW, when reassembling the power steering pump, it puked fluid, replaced the pump, too.
Mine was more difficult because of the supercharger bracket.
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Thanks blown 88. Basically what I’m dealing with. Cleaning it then re cleaning, and triple checking. Want to do this once.

Wondering if any of you guys have reused the timing cover after cleaning. Starting to think i should have just dropped for a new one. Cleaning the hell out of it more than once. Can’t stand paper gaskets.
 
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No need for a new cover unless there is something wrong with it. I just went through this. I've changed these before but this time I had issues with water leaking into the oil. Solution was to clean the ever loving christ out of it and not be stingy with the RTV. I'm not talking gooped on, but I coated the gasket and put a film on the block and cover. Then let it sit for a bit and bolted it up. Seems to have worked so far. At least I dont have water in my oil.
 
No need for a new cover unless there is something wrong with it. I just went through this. I've changed these before but this time I had issues with water leaking into the oil. Solution was to clean the ever loving christ out of it and not be stingy with the RTV. I'm not talking gooped on, but I coated the gasket and put a film on the block and cover. Then let it sit for a bit and bolted it up. Seems to have worked so far. At least I dont have water in my oil.
Water in oil is no bueno. Yeah don’t really want to do this again. Wishing I just bought the chain. Was going to reuse the cover but I’m just going to order one now. Cleaned the hell out of it but don’t want to do this again for a while. Slight pitting, maybe from cavitation/age. Meaning gasket surface. Have other projects lined up. Trying to get SN95 coil over upfront. New rear control arms, uppers/lowers, but need custom or Tbird since mine are 1” longer than a stang. Finally attach the SN95 sway bar, but waiting to another response from maximum motorsports since my rear shocks are 3.5” longer and it will mess up the droop travel. Anyway, don’t want to put it back together and risk it.

and yeah, when I was younger I made the mistake of too much RTV. Thin coat should do. Got the water pump/thermostat specific and also old school gasket shelack which worked well for my thermostat last time. Considering it. I’ve seen some guys coat the whole gasket super thin.
 
It's electrolysis that eats the cover and bolts. Some anti seize and rtv takes care for it for the most part.
Just did my water pump, cover and timing chain but my engine only had about 40k on it so everything was in pretty good shape.
 
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general karthief

Yeah kind of what I figured. read a little about it.

On another note:
Now that I’m in there I’m deciding to do the chain. The main question I have on this is: I’ve already dissasblemed everything besides the chain and my timing marks are not at TDC.
a. Should I rotate the crank by hand and get to the tdc ? (see photo below) which is from the internet. (Showing alignment) cam at 6 and crank at 12

B. Will I damage anything I’d I do rotate the motor by hand? Should I put her in neutral?

c. Or, when installing the new chain can I align it exactly as is, ie not atTDC. I would much rather align TDC if A And B are possible.
I’ve read much on this and just need some clarification. Don’t see why I can’t align at TDC then proceed, which is definitely how I would rather do this. (Again, I’m 2 degree advanced timing and I know these run at 10 degree which puts me at 12 degree advanced all around) I do not Think that will affect TDC since TDC is TDC. I know this was supposed to be cooling system post, but I’m in too far now to NOT do this.

wish I could find my manual.
 

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Current status...
Your timing cover is fine, reuse it.
Get a set of Felpro gaskets & a tube of Permatex Super High Tack Gasket Sealant to hold the gaskets in place.
Also got a tube of Permatex Red RTV High Temp Gasket Maker to put in the corners.
You'll hardly use any of the Permatex tubes; I have enough remaining to do 10-20 water pumps.
I was able to reuse the original oil pan rubber gasket. Don't cut the front away & don't use the 3 pieces that come with the gasket kit.
Stuff old rags all around the chain to keep the gasket scrapings from getting into the oil pan.
We just dropped the oil pan just enough to get the timing chain cover on.
When all done, drain the existing oil in case any bits of gasket got into it.
Put cheap oil in, run to temp, check for water leaks, then drain oil & refill with good oil.
 
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Your timing cover is fine, reuse it.
Get a set of Felpro gaskets & a tube of Permatex Super High Tack Gasket Sealant to hold the gaskets in place.
Also got a tube of Permatex Red RTV High Temp Gasket Maker to put in the corners.
You'll hardly use any of the Permatex tubes; I have enough remaining to do 10-20 water pumps.
I was able to reuse the original oil pan rubber gasket. Don't cut the front away & don't use the 3 pieces that come with the gasket kit.
Stuff old rags all around the chain to keep the gasket scrapings from getting into the oil pan.
We just dropped the oil pan just enough to get the timing chain cover on.
When all done, drain the existing oil in case any bits of gasket got into it.
Put cheap oil in, run to temp, check for water leaks, then drain oil & refill with good oil.
Thanks, think you read my mind on some of this. Done enough gaskets to know not to use too much rtv. More so on other cars. And I’ve found it good practice to do the corners for sure. Again thanks. I did go with the Felpro kit as well. Not feeling the corner piece gaskets. An I definitely will be flushing as much as I can from that oil pan while I’m at it.
 
My pump let go about 6 months after doing the radiator. When all was said & done, the Mark VIII e-fan wouldn't fit any more. Now running the Contour e-fan. 4500 vs 3500 cfm but haven't encountered any overheating. To top it all off, the instrument panel temp sensor stopped functioning, only rose halfway up to normal. I just got the car back a week ago after 10 weeks in the shop waiting for the new transmission, custom built T5 by Promotion Performance of Ft. Lauderdale. Needs 500 mile break-in, got about 100 miles on it.

BTW, your chain looks good. There is a backlash spec, don't remember it right now. Can look it up if you need it.
 
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None better. Gave up on the Corral.
Where in Mass are you? Have a good friend in Arlington. He's stuck there, his 2nd house is across the street from me.
Southern MA on the border of RI. Pretty far from Arlington.
After lining it back up there’s less slack. I saw .50 of an inch for the slack. Wishing I knew to Check the slack degrees the before I took it as part. Oh well. Just read up on that.
 
Ok, lets check it out, first I will add that I have underdrive pulleys, this test was done on a stock 5.0 and it worked but was not mentioned was the real world, charging and cooling issues were not addressed. The real world is there can be (I say 'can be' because there are workarounds for these issues) problems when sitting in traffic at night in the summer time with the ac on.
Ok, so you don't sit in traffic at night in the summertime with the ac on. Because you can't. The temps will rise and the voltage will drop. Real world.
I mentioned workarounds, now you are installing electric cooling fans then a 3g alternator. Well you did accidentally gained a few more ponys. All's well. Most of the time.
Was the $60 bucks worth the 16hp and 17 lbft at 5k.
Real world driving is at say 3200 rpms where the gain is 7 hp and 11 lbft. Not so much now but some.
For some it works, for me it is marginal.
Now you can make an informed decision.

Interesting...I put an underdrive pulley set on my ‘86 not long after I bought it new. It’s now got 98,000 miles on it, and never a problem with charging or A/C systems.
 
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General, yes, I read the whole post, and I didn’t use any workarounds. I drove normally and used the A/C whenever needed.

I wasn’t trying to take issue with you, only reporting different results.
I know, no issues and I run under drive pulleys, not sure if I will put them back on though. Probably will.
 
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