Cure me of my auto shame...

2k3gt

New Member
Apr 20, 2003
103
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York, ME
Sup stangers,

I absolutely hate the fact that my high and mighty 281 CUBIC INCH MONSTER of domestic v8 power mustang (auto) can barely hang with my friends' well modded, manual, NATURALLY ASPIRATED 4 cylinder cars. Did I get a total lemon or what? :notnice:

Anyway, reading up I've found that there are several mods I can do to lessen the disadvantage of my AODE, and even in some cases turn them into advantages over a 5spd... a few of them are:

Shift Kit
Jerry Mod (WTF is this anyway?)
Stall Converter
Torque Converter
Chip (shift points)
Tranny Cooler


Now, I hardly know anything about auto transmissions, let alone what these aftermarket parts can do for it. Which of these would be most beneficial to a N/A car? Which are most important? Or should I just forget em all and grab a set of 4.10's??

What do you guys think?
 
plan and simple 4.10's or 4.30's, and what 4 cylinder cars are beating you?/ even stock you should take any 4 cylinder car out there unless there turbo or running n2o or highly modified.

btw- I have 4.10s and an automatic and the car feels 500lbs lighter and revs so much quicker :nice:
 
get 4.30's it did amazing things for my auto pig.. and a shift kit and you will have no problems... the jerry mod is a backyard hack job way to get your auto to shift harder... basically you drill a bigger hole in one of the plates inside your tranny.. but imo a shift kit is cheap. and safer. also with the jerry mod you MUST use a tranny cooler or you will have problems.
 
Jerry Mod, is a shift kit...I've heard it's a necessity.It will firm up the shifts and make them quicker. A torque converter will enable you to launch at a higher rpm. Think of it as the equivalent of dropping the clutch at a higher rpm. Now, if you do any of these, you will need a tranny cooler b/c friction will increase and so will heat. These things will definately close the gap of disadvantage that you have.
 
Thanks for the responses guys, keep the opinions comin...

00torchGT said:
plan and simple 4.10's or 4.30's, and what 4 cylinder cars are beating you?/ even stock you should take any 4 cylinder car out there unless there turbo or running n2o or highly modified.

btw- I have 4.10s and an automatic and the car feels 500lbs lighter and revs so much quicker :nice:

2000 Acura Integra GS-R
2000 Acura 3.2 CL
1993 Honda Prelude Si 2.3L
1993 Honda Civic Si w/ swapped GS-R motor
2001 Honda S2000

They all, minus the prelude and cl.. have intake, full exhaust incl. headers... stuff they really shouldnt gain much from. Problem is they give me **** excuses like "oh man my O/2 sensor is off low end so i gotta run you in vtec... so my a/f corrects itself" Despite that, even when I win it isnt by much. I guess the problem is that I race on their terms...

I still cant beat the S2 :nonono:
 
:nono: :bs:

race em from a dig.. the 02 sensor crap is bull****.. or send em my way.. my o2 sensors are screwy from my or x pipe.. check eng light is on, and i'll whoop on them all day :rlaugh:.. they are just telling you that because they know if you race on your terms it will be a slaughterfest.

your car is faster than youre giving it credit.. they are just scamming you.

-Ryan
 
they arnt that quick.. a good friend of mine has a 96 prelude srv, and another has a slightly modded 94 srv.. and it has absolutely nothing until 4k.. 4-5500 its decent... after 5500(vtec comes on at 5500) it pulls pretty hard until the redline at 8000.. however.. from a stop its got nothing at all..


-Ryan

I still cant beat the S2
even from a dead stop?? you should... i have and my car is about a tie with stockish new GT's now... but either way.. get gears and the shiftkit and you wont have anymore problems :D
 
Green4.6GT said:
even from a dead stop?? you should... i have and my car is about a tie with stockish new GT's now... but either way.. get gears and the shiftkit and you wont have anymore problems :D

See, this guy launches at like 8-9k or something like that..... ****er takes off like there's no tomorrow.

Thanks for the kind words man... Looks like 4.10's and a stall converter w/ tranny cooler are going in next.
 
i just noticed something... i guarontee those 18's arnt helping things.. rotating mass = bad medicine... gears well definately offset that..

10 lbs of rotating mass(drive train) will usually cost you a tenth in the 1/4.. where it takes 100 lbs of deadweight to make the same diffrence.. either ditch some weight.. or soemthing.
 
kurst said:
your qtr mile time is 14.9@92?

in that case maybe you did get a lemon... you should be sub 14.5 at upper 90's worst case scenerio.


First time ever to the track, it was actually a 15.3 at Palmdale... so 14.9 corrected. My response times were high... like 1.1 hahaha... and I lost the slips or else I'd give you the 60' too. Probably @ 5 seconds knowing me :rolleyes:
 
Green4.6GT said:
get 4.30's it did amazing things for my auto pig.. and a shift kit and you will have no problems... the jerry mod is a backyard hack job way to get your auto to shift harder... basically you drill a bigger hole in one of the plates inside your tranny.. but imo a shift kit is cheap. and safer. also with the jerry mod you MUST use a tranny cooler or you will have problems.

I wouldn't exactly call the Jerry mod a backyard hack job. "Jerry" was an engineer for Ford that helped design the 4r70w.

If you want some accurate information on the Jerry Mod and even more about the 4r70w visit the following link.

http://www.tccoa.com./articles/tranny/index.html#

There is also a good thread going on over at Modular Depot regarding the Jerry Mod as well.

http://www.modulardepot.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=38282