DCC HELP! NOT WORKING?

[gcwh02]

I installed my DCC unit and my fan does not run. I brought the temp up to 190 and the fan didnt move. This is what I did... 1. Put the temp sensor into the correct place of the radiator. 2. Connected the red wire to the Output Terminal to the positive fan terminal. 3. Connected the GND terminal with a wire going to the negative fan terminal. 4. Connected the GND terminal with a wire going to the neg. bat. terminal. 5. Connected the Input terminal with a wire going to the positive battery terminal. I ran the ignition auxillary wire ( so the fan runs with the car off) right back to the Input terminal. I dont have A/C so I can skip that step. And that should be it? Did I forget anything bc I see a diagram at the bottom of the instructions showing two pin numbers on the controller associated with temperatures?

 

[HISSIN50]

Sounds decent to me.
I chose to run dedicated grounds from the fan's - terminal, and from the Dc Controller's - terminal (each one goes to a ground point independently, instead of sharing one grounding leg in a Y-type of affair).

Ensure the probe is seated properly adjacent the driver side lower portion of the radiator (the outgoing radiator coolant). It goes in from the engine side and till the rubber lip/edge touch the fins. I put tape around a jeweler's screwdriver and pushed the fins back nice and tight around the bulb once I installed it.

Double check the connections and ensure they have power and ground appropriately.

If you connect powerto the AC input wire, does the fan run at all?

If you check power biased across pins 1 and 2, look for 5 volts.

Regarding the temperature stuff (your last comment), you might be lookin at a chart of temps and jumper positions so you can change the temp target threshold. Unless you specified otherwise, the controller probably came with a target temp of 187* ish (to accomodate a balanced 180*F T-stat).

As always, emailed Brian is the best route to go. Who knows more about this stuff than him?

Good luck.

 

[Black Sun 5.0]

Pull all the jumpers to see if it kicks in at 180*. Perhaps you jumped it incorrectly. Also, I do believe that there are two pins to avoid jumping or you can damage the unit. Check your instructions.

 

[gcwh02]

Pull all the jumpers to see if it kicks in at 180*. Perhaps you jumped it incorrectly. Also, I do believe that there are two pins to avoid jumping or you can damage the unit. Check your instructions.

what do you mean by pulling all jumpers? I have my temp jumpers on pins 1 and 2.

 

[gcwh02]

Sounds decent to me.
I chose to run dedicated grounds from the fan's - terminal, and from the Dc Controller's - terminal (each one goes to a ground point independently, instead of sharing one grounding leg in a Y-type of affair).

Ensure the probe is seated properly adjacent the driver side lower portion of the radiator (the outgoing radiator coolant). It goes in from the engine side and till the rubber lip/edge touch the fins. I put tape around a jeweler's screwdriver and pushed the fins back nice and tight around the bulb once I installed it.

Double check the connections and ensure they have power and ground appropriately.

If you connect powerto the AC input wire, does the fan run at all?

If you check power biased across pins 1 and 2, look for 5 volts.

Regarding the temperature stuff (your last comment), you might be lookin at a chart of temps and jumper positions so you can change the temp target threshold. Unless you specified otherwise, the controller probably came with a target temp of 187* ish (to accomodate a balanced 180*F T-stat).

As always, emailed Brian is the best route to go. Who knows more about this stuff than him?

Good luck.

As for the AC input wire, i did nothing with it b/c I don't have A/C on my car anymore. I have another question. There are 2 wires for the different speeds coming off my taurus fan. I connected the high speed wire as my power wire from the fan connecting to the controller, is that correct? I left the low speed wire sit there.

 

[HISSIN50]

I know you dont have AC. The point of applying 12 volts to the AC wire on the controller is to test the controller.

You got it with the low speed not being connected - you connect high and ground on the fan.

 

[Black Sun 5.0]

I just hooked my DCC up two weekends ago. If memory serves me correctly, pins 1 and 2 are for the temp sensor, and leaving all other pins un-jumped will set the unit to turn the fan on at 180*. The reason why I suggested this was to verify that you didn't have the jumpers on the wrong pins.

 

[gcwh02]

I just hooked my DCC up two weekends ago. If memory serves me correctly, pins 1 and 2 are for the temp sensor, and leaving all other pins un-jumped will set the unit to turn the fan on at 180*. The reason why I suggested this was to verify that you didn't have the jumpers on the wrong pins.

gotcha, thanks for the look out

 

[Sicarius428]

Does the fan work? Since you are down there it might not be a bad time to run a manual switch and a relay. I have been very pleased with mine but I ran a manual switch just in case.
Kevin

 

[gcwh02]

Does the fan work? Since you are down there it might not be a bad time to run a manual switch and a relay. I have been very pleased with mine but I ran a manual switch just in case.
Kevin

yea the fan works, before I wired it up I touched the wires to the battery and it spooled up

 

[Sicarius428]

1.So you have the negative wire from the fan going to the ground post on the controler and from there you have a wire from the ground post going directly to the battery.
2.The right side positive post is going to the positive wire on the fan.
3. The left positive post on the controler is going through the fuseable link to the battery. Check the fuseable link too.
4. The yellow wire is going directly to the battery for constant on when the car is off. Better have a good battery...
5. The temp probe is plugged into pin 1 and 2 and the probe is snug in the fins of the radiator.
That is how you have it connected?
For testing you can try to jump pin 13 to 14 and see if the Underdrive pully setting will kick in at 10 percent flow. Only do this for testing because if I understand this correctly since you have the yellow wire connect directly to your battery it will stay on forever.
Kevin

 

[gcwh02]

yea that is how I have it connected except.. My kit never came with a fusible link, could that be my problem? My kit also didn't come with jumpers to test the underdrive. I have been waiting for a response from brian for a few days now to see what he has to say.

 

[Shakerhood]

Sorry to hijack this Thread, but does the DCC have an option for using a Sensor instead of a Radiator Probe for reading the Temp?

 

[Sicarius428]

I would wait for Brian's response on the issue. He definately would know better in this situation.
The DCC doesn't have an option to use a sensor instead of the radiator probe. I was pretty skeptic at first but have never had an issue otherwise to prove that the radiator probe isn't just as reliable. Definately easier to install though. In a way, where the probe is placed totally makes sense though. It reads after your water has been cooled by the radiator negating all of the different cooling capabilities and capacities of people's different setups. It creates a perfect baseline in order for the DCC to ramp up or spool down the fan as needed. You wouldn't want the probe before the tstat or radiator, that will give the unit a false reading.
Kevin

 

[HISSIN50]

Nice response by Kevin.

I would add that the probe itself is very nice IMHO. It's not like one of those freon filled bulbs that come with other controllers (even the other 'soft start' controller people use has one of those as I recall). Guys have to pack around those old-school probes with RTV or styrene to make them read correctly and not fall out.

I'm actually quite impressed with the Dc Control temp probe itself (just in case that gives some perspective that this isn't like a POS controller's probe).

 

[gcwh02]

hey hissin, would not having a fusible link to the battery cause my fan to act this way? Thanks

 

[Sicarius428]

Nope. Fuseable link is only there as a sacrificial wire just in case of a spike or your fan is drawing too much power. You wouldn't notice a difference between a fuseable link or a solid wire otherwise.
Kevin