december 5.0 magazine sc vs. hci

[bubba-dough]

Forget your fears about a tune. If the engine is stock and all ur doing is boost'n. You CAN get away with an FMU and no tune. Don't push it TOO hard.. stop before you pass 10psi.

True, my pal done it for 6 yrs on his. Although, dyno time (not an all out tune) is a nice tool and cheap at $100 an hour (compared to the $2000 dollars for the charger and what not) because it can pick up a good deal of tq and hp left on the table as well as checking your A/F ratio.

 

[bynummustang]

Is the F cam a good blower cam?

 

[wgpaintballer]

good points guys//

My main reason for why im thinking of doing a sc first is because i belive im going to do a stroker.. and most likely i wont be using afr 165's on this new engine.. so i can throw a sc on in a afternoon and play with it that night.. then i can start to save for my new engine.. get what im saying.. cause lets think a cam is like 200-300 and that will dumb to swap that out then have to replace it 6 months later.. also i will def be using a sc on the new engine and most of the parts i can still use.. fuel pump.. etc.. so if either is a temporary fix i think a sc is the best move

now what kind of power can a mexican block hold 500rwhp?
also what kind of boost gauges do u recommend?

 

[poneypower89]

now what kind of power can a mexican block hold 500rwhp?
also what kind of boost gauges do u recommend?

Mexican blocks will hold considerably MORE than the stock 5.0l engine found in our mustangs. I've noted a few local racers.. one dynoed at 780HP with a 347 stroker and boost.. hes been running the same combo since I can remember.. which HAS to be at least 8 years now..

the other guy I have no idea what his power numbers are.. but he runs mid 5's in the 1/8.. so Im guessing around 700-800 hp also.. this is a street/strip car and he claimed he had over 40k on the build.

Mexican blocks are basically just a 302 with larger main caps and thicker metal all around. They are a NON-roller cam block which means you will have to go old school on the cam, tap the block for the lifters and run a custom small circle roller cam.. OR, buy a retro-fit lifter kit to run the roller cam. Its up to you what direction you decide to go.

Boost gauges? Just get a mechanical auto-meter.. its cheap and effective.. its your own personal choice on the sweep of the gauge you wish to have.






BTW bynummustang.. the F-cam isn't a great blower cam.. it kills a lot of vaccum at idle and thats not good on a blower car. If you are wanting an alphabet cam thats geared towards a blower car look at the e-cam.. its setup real well for boost.. the stock cam is also a good blower cam believe it or not.

 

[DRock9]

What is the difference between the V1 and V2?

 

[Aliate X]

V1 is s-trim (louder) v2 is sq trim (quieter)

Id take h/c/i over a s/c any day of the week. H/C/I is 10x as fun on the street, the difference is beyond night and day. You feel the difference more than you would bolting up a supercharger to the stock motor, because you move your powerband up, the car no longer hits that "wall" after 4800rpms, it sounds 1000x better, and theres nothing more fun than sitting at a light loping away. Theres nothing more satisfying than the first start up and you hear the car which you are so used to hearing, sounding so much different. Its not only the lope, the car is much louder and SCREAMS up top, for example, stock with 4.10s, you nail the gas, the tires are spinning then they catch up top. after h/c/i, you mash the gas at 2k rpms, the tires stick, hit 4500rpms and they start spinning, lol its so much fun, makes me smile just thinking about it. I dont regret anything at all about a h/c/i swap. And as far as streetability, if a TFS stage 1 cam isnt streetable, I dont know what is.

btw yes, I have the TFS top end kit.

 

[millhouse]

BTW bynummustang.. the F-cam isn't a great blower cam.. it kills a lot of vaccum at idle and thats not good on a blower car. If you are wanting an alphabet cam thats geared towards a blower car look at the e-cam.. its setup real well for boost.. the stock cam is also a good blower cam believe it or not.

That's strange....everyone always seems to talk up the F303 cam as the preffered alphabet choice. You sarafice a tiny bit of tq down low in exchage for power where the supercharger shines...up high.

I currently run the f-cam with 1.7 rr's and pull between 14 & 16 inches ad idle. I wouldnt consider that to low by any means.

 

[poneypower89]

That's strange....everyone always seems to talk up the F303 cam as the preffered alphabet choice. You sarafice a tiny bit of tq down low in exchage for power where the supercharger shines...up high.

I currently run the f-cam with 1.7 rr's and pull between 14 & 16 inches ad idle. I wouldnt consider that to low by any means.

point taken...

but there are other things to consider than just where tha powerband is put.. like duration and overlap...

IF i had to get an alphabet cam for a blower car.. the e-cam is better on paper and tends to be market and used more often for blower cars..

Im just ordering a custom grind for my build as I don't really wanna think about it too hard.