Im debating I'm making my own full length sub frame connectors because the maximum motorsports once I had purchased make my clearance from the ground even lower Then it already is. my Question is do you think using half inch by 2 or 3" tubing instead of the 2 by 3 Will work just as good as long as I make the same bends
Diy full length subframe connectors
- Thread starter Whiteboy209
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CARBLDR
Member
I’m new here, and it’s been along tim since I’ve said anything as seems like I’m always working on some guys car, but 1/2” tubing will be just that. It wint matter how wide it is. The minimum you should consider for tubing thicknesss is 1”. If you can’t give up an additional 1/2” of ground clearance, your car is too low.
There are through floor subframe connectors for all the clearance in the world. There are plenty of box style subframe connectors available on the market. MM is not the only game in town.
Kurt
Kurt
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
CARBLDR
Member
Alot of guys can barely weld when the wrk is right in front of em. add in precise cutting through the floor then trying to weld .20 ga. galvanized back to the 2x3 mild steel, and you almost guarantee a non DIY sf connector job. kinda goes cross wise to the thread title.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
Well yes skill and finesse is a must
And a good welder
He could always farm it out
He did say he was thinking of fabricating them himself
To me that means at least he thinks he can weld
When I want pretty I hire a certified welder and I am a pro and can weld like woo wee
Bloom where you are planted
I can make more money turning wrenches and pay him less for the remedial work
And a good welder
He could always farm it out
He did say he was thinking of fabricating them himself
To me that means at least he thinks he can weld
When I want pretty I hire a certified welder and I am a pro and can weld like woo wee
Bloom where you are planted
I can make more money turning wrenches and pay him less for the remedial work
I've seen some diy install pictures. It's not for the faint of heart. It's a lot of work.
Kurt
Bree
Active Member
Sub-frame connectors are to add strength. Strength is something that almost always comes in numbers!
through the floor is best, if properly done.
typical tubing under-floor is fine too, as long as they're welded (not bolted) on, and welded properly.
some have concerns with ground clearance. If you have a GT, you already have ground clearance issues (ground effects) and the subframes don't hang any lower than the side skirts already do. On LX, they do hang-same as a GT, but now the sfc's are the lowest points, unless your exhaust is real low (long tube headers come to mind)
making them isn't terrible, but you should have access to a press and know how to weld. That, is the hardest part honestly-welding them on. I've done a bunch of them on fox body cars and a couple SN95's. What I learned. Straight CO2 for shielding gas works better than argon mix (75/25) for the mig. .024" ER70S-6 wire. Clean the original parts of the body as best you can. The MM connectors have great instructions on how and where to weld. They don't need to be welded everywhere either, just stitch welded in certain areas. The reason I use straight CO2 is that it is (A) cheaper than 75/25 and (B) more tolerant of dirty joints. Remember these cars are approaching 30 years old at their newest models (fox body that is), and in that 30 years oil has leaked into the frames, in between the folded/stacked sheet metal parts, there is dirt, salt, whatever-and none of it is conducive to good welding. Plus, it's galvanized, and in certain areas, paper thin.
I typically like to use MM if possible. They actually engineered their stuff rather than some chinese (or whatever) company that simply found a piece of tubing, bent it to "fit" and then said "goes right on". Trust me, they don't just go right on, and the MM instructions tell you what and where to adjust if needed.
Nobody made a set for a Fairmont back in the day so I made my own out of some scrap tubing. Through-the-floor. Came out excellent, and it's not 'that' hard to do, but again you gotta know how to weld. It's unnerving to cut a 3 foot section of floor out!
typical tubing under-floor is fine too, as long as they're welded (not bolted) on, and welded properly.
some have concerns with ground clearance. If you have a GT, you already have ground clearance issues (ground effects) and the subframes don't hang any lower than the side skirts already do. On LX, they do hang-same as a GT, but now the sfc's are the lowest points, unless your exhaust is real low (long tube headers come to mind)
making them isn't terrible, but you should have access to a press and know how to weld. That, is the hardest part honestly-welding them on. I've done a bunch of them on fox body cars and a couple SN95's. What I learned. Straight CO2 for shielding gas works better than argon mix (75/25) for the mig. .024" ER70S-6 wire. Clean the original parts of the body as best you can. The MM connectors have great instructions on how and where to weld. They don't need to be welded everywhere either, just stitch welded in certain areas. The reason I use straight CO2 is that it is (A) cheaper than 75/25 and (B) more tolerant of dirty joints. Remember these cars are approaching 30 years old at their newest models (fox body that is), and in that 30 years oil has leaked into the frames, in between the folded/stacked sheet metal parts, there is dirt, salt, whatever-and none of it is conducive to good welding. Plus, it's galvanized, and in certain areas, paper thin.
I typically like to use MM if possible. They actually engineered their stuff rather than some chinese (or whatever) company that simply found a piece of tubing, bent it to "fit" and then said "goes right on". Trust me, they don't just go right on, and the MM instructions tell you what and where to adjust if needed.
Nobody made a set for a Fairmont back in the day so I made my own out of some scrap tubing. Through-the-floor. Came out excellent, and it's not 'that' hard to do, but again you gotta know how to weld. It's unnerving to cut a 3 foot section of floor out!
There are low profile box tube subframe connectors available, and they have been available for decades.
Kurt
Kurt
Here's what I did on the '84. Wanted something stronger than just the single tube and didn't want to spend big bucks. Using powder-coating as primer:
These wrap around the sub-frames and are plug welded plus welded along the edges. They are boxed on the inside while leaving room for the sub frames.
Car is really rigid now and handles like a dream, but rides really nice too. Man did these take a while to build.
These wrap around the sub-frames and are plug welded plus welded along the edges. They are boxed on the inside while leaving room for the sub frames.
Car is really rigid now and handles like a dream, but rides really nice too. Man did these take a while to build.
