Do these tricks really work?

Boss 351

Here sthhhhhhhheeeve take a picthh of my man flowe
Jul 13, 2003
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Adjusting the throttle position sensor (TPS) to .98 volts instead of the stock .75~.85?

Using a 70mm MAF from a 4.6L Cougar or Thunderbird (I have a 55mm MAF currently) as long as I use the stock sensor from my 55mm MAF.

Also bumping my base timing from 10 to 12..14 or whatever doesn't ping with 94 octane gas.
 
I adjusted my timing to about 14* a few years ago, then gas got so expensive, I dropped to 87 octane and took it easy and put a little more load on here and there, until I just floored it and I get NO knock. Does that mean if I use 93 octane I should be able to get like 18* of timing? Maybe even 20*?
 
Boss 351 said:
Also bumping my base timing from 10 to 12..14 or whatever doesn't ping with 94 octane gas.
I would run the least octane you can and then run about the most timing you can on that octane. But if you ping with little timing on low octane, then I would step it up.

Good luck.
 
Thanks... would there be any difference going from 55 to 70mm MAF? Currently I have the stock intake manifolds (like a 94 GT Mustang).

I'm going to bump the base timing this weekend.
 
Boss 351 said:
Thanks... would there be any difference going from 55 to 70mm MAF? Currently I have the stock intake manifolds (like a 94 GT Mustang).

I'm going to bump the base timing this weekend.


I second that question!!!
 
thats a yes, one of the older tricks works well.use your stock electronics and if you can find a wrecked 94-95 liter use the maf from that.used to do it to the foxs i used to own,and just hooked my budds 90 up w/ my stock maf of my 95.he loves it.
 
As long as the TPS is at ~0.4v and ~1.2v at idle, the exact voltage of the TPS at idle makes no difference at all - none!. :)

Now, if you have an aftermarket TB or you adjusted your idle, then you MUST makes sure that the TPS is within that range.

Every Stang EEC-IV made on this planet (sorry, I don't give a rat's *** about EEC's that people get from aliens :)), reads the TPS voltage at start up and uses that voltage as the "idle reference voltage". The EEC also then adds some pre-defined voltage (like 2.7V) to that "idle reference voltage" to determine the WOT set point.

The main purpose of the TPS is really for the first indication of accel/decel. It's the rate of change of the TPS that the EEC cares about.
 
TPS voltage will do nothing for power - it will however, in most cases, give you a better idle if set properly.

Bigger MAF means better power in most instances, but in terms of what you will feel or see on a dyno...depends on your combo and if your setup was begging for more air and a better reading.

Pumping your timing will up your power - too high and you will have detonation and ruin components. Too low and you will have ****ty idle and low power. 10* is stock, although any tuner will tell you that the Mustang is notorious for coming from the factory with timing set above or below that, hardly ever dead on.

Also, with the higher timing you need to run higher octane fuel. You may be able to get away with 87 and not ping, but to get the full advantage jump up to over 90.
 
Personally thoughts: when using pump gas, if one has to use higher octane to accomodate increased timing, that is a waste of money - very very small return for the extra 10-20 cents/gallon.

Run the highest timing (without being on the ragged edge of detonation, esp since power can go down before the onset on detonation) that one can on a given grade of gas.
 
slow5poh said:
i fell for that tps crap. it didn't do diddly **** for me. oh well, live and learn.

:nonono:
You just made Stang&2Birds very happy. :)

Criticman, I guess we will have to agree to disagree on this. :cheers: Race gas is a totally different animal and can allow one to really pick-up some gains. During the use of Race gas is where I have seen dyno-sheets which show a difference. But IMHO, the extra 3-5 octane points at the pump (non-race gas) are not going to do much.

And like Speeds8er said, running more octane than needed (without an accompanying timing increase) can diminish performance. It is all about optimum spark timing in correspondance with a given volatility of fuel (higher octane being slower to ignite than a lower octane).
 
95opal said:
thats a yes, one of the older tricks works well.use your stock electronics and if you can find a wrecked 94-95 liter use the maf from that.used to do it to the foxs i used to own,and just hooked my budds 90 up w/ my stock maf of my 95.he loves it.


Can you go into more detail on this whole matter??? I'm not quite sure what you mean.
 
basically a cheap way of upgrading to a bigger maf,since foxs ome stock w/ a 55mm or 58mm (not pos.) and 94 -95 use 70mm.only diff is the square flange and electronics.only works if your still running 19lbers.
 
HISSIN50 said:
Personally thoughts: when using pump gas, if one has to use higher octane to accomodate increased timing, that is a waste of money - very very small return for the extra 10-20 cents/gallon.

Run the highest timing (without being on the ragged edge of detonation, esp since power can go down before the onset on detonation) that one can on a given grade of gas.




yup...to run the same power level w/ incresed octane you HAVE to increase timing.
higher octane causes (something along these lines..i'm no physicist) the need for higher combustion chambers temps for proper burn.

ex: if you used 12* timing on turbo blue 110 octane.......you would run slower than on 89 octane an 12* timing.
 
Boss 351 said:
Thanks... would there be any difference going from 55 to 70mm MAF? Currently I have the stock intake manifolds (like a 94 GT Mustang).

I'm going to bump the base timing this weekend.
In your case....No. For one, you've got a more restrictive intake than the '87-'93 Crowd, which isn't really going to be able to take advantage of the additional airflow in the first place and two, you've got a small restrictive 2" 2-1-2 exhaust that it's moving enough air from the other end. You want to make a little more power with that Cougar, address the exhaust end first. :)