Easy replacement for stock cylinder heads

Heads can be had for the $1000 figure. BUT it's all the rest of the stuff that's going to eat your budget up. New heads mean that you need new rocker arms. You don't want to put the nice high performance heads on with the cheapo stamped steel rocker arms. There goes another $100 (used)-$300 (new) for some quality roller rocker arms. Hummm... Roller rocker arms - gotta check the valve train geometry to make sure the rocker tip roller is centered over the valve stem. Cough up another $12-$40 for an adjustable push rod and low tension test valve spring to make sure it is all set up correctly. If you go with Trick Flow heads, replacement rockers and push rods are a must, because the stock ones won't come anywhere near working – that’s $200 (used) - $500 (new). Total it up and you have $1400 - $1800 worth of goodies. That doesn't include the trip to the machine shop to make sure your used stuff is in good shape. That will eat up a good part of the savings from buying a set of used heads.

Now that you have ruptured your dream about some shiny lightweight aluminum heads, think about reality. GT40 or GT40P heads are about the only thing left $200 - $350 by the time they get delivered to your door... But… right off the Explorer or someone else’s project means a trip to the machine shop to check for cracks, a valve job, knurl the valve guides, mill the heads, etc. Don't take the seller's word that "its all been done" unless he produces the paperwork to prove what comes out of his mouth! The machine shop work eats up $275-$350 for a top quality job. Going to turn some RPMS? Then plan on replacing the valve springs when you get the heads done - $100-$250. The GT40P heads flow better and have a better combustion chamber design, but require GT40P specific headers That another $150-$250 to get headers that will let you change the spark plugs. Add another $75 for spark plug wires with 90 degree boots and shorty spark plugs. Add another $50 for gaskets and miscellaneous parts and you are running $800- $1350 for the whole package

jrichker always gives great advice on here. heads are one thing but don't stick the stock rocker arms and valve springs back on, they are weak. New haeds are going to require new rockers, a must do. A set of Trick flow heads isn't too far over a grand and set of rockers won't kill you either. easier to find a good used intake and pickup new heads, used intakes are all over the place. but again I don't think a new set of heads/rockers are far of your budget ( stay away from patriot heads, far way).

$798.00 heads from tri state cylinder head we put a pair of 5.0x heads on my buddys 91 notch put them next to the gt40x heads another freind had laying around cant tell a difference in the design. they run good to stock bottom end ,b303 cam , performer efi intake and all the other boltons you usually do made 325hp at the wheels. best bang for the buck on a limited budget.

WHT306 said:

$798.00 heads from tri state cylinder head we put a pair of 5.0x heads on my buddys 91 notch put them next to the gt40x heads another freind had laying around cant tell a difference in the design. they run good to stock bottom end ,b303 cam , performer efi intake and all the other boltons you usually do made 325hp at the wheels. best bang for the buck on a limited budget.

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325hp to the wheels with a GT40X style head, B303, and Performer? I have to disagree there. I would say 290whp at best and that is assuming all of the other supporting mods are there to complete the combo.

OK 302,B303 CAM, PERFORMER INTAKE,5.0X HEADS ALL GASKET MATCHED, 31LB INJECTORS, 76MM MAF, 75MM T.B, 1 5/8 SHRTIES, U.D PULLIES, ELECTRIC FAN, NO AC, NO SMOG,1.6 ROLLER ROCKERS, SCT CHIP, MSD DIST& COIL & 6AL, 3 INCH X PIPE TO 3 INCH EXHAUST T THE BUMPER WITH MAGNAFLOW MUFFS, AND A T5 TRANS.

So just because you have never seen it doesnt mean you cant put it to the ground.

WHT306 said:

OK 302,B303 CAM, PERFORMER INTAKE,5.0X HEADS ALL GASKET MATCHED, 31LB INJECTORS, 76MM MAF, 75MM T.B, 1 5/8 SHRTIES, U.D PULLIES, ELECTRIC FAN, NO AC, NO SMOG,1.6 ROLLER ROCKERS, SCT CHIP, MSD DIST& COIL & 6AL, 3 INCH X PIPE TO 3 INCH EXHAUST T THE BUMPER WITH MAGNAFLOW MUFFS, AND A T5 TRANS.

So just because you have never seen it doesnt mean you cant put it to the ground.

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Well now it makes a bit more sense. You have a tune as well as removing all the drag off of the motor. You left those itty bitty details out.

Surf some dedicated drag racing forums, when some guys change classes they have to change their setup. I found a set of gt40x heads and everything to swap them in for 500. Heads were p&p, decked, etc and even came with gaskets and pushrods.

The "P" heads are really nice. I had mine ported with new springs and a good valve job. I also used my BBK shorty headers (unequal length). All I had to swap were the plug wires to a new set with 90degree plug boots. You don't have to buy new expensive headers to use them. It's a myth. The P heads are a great upgrade, and compared to the standard GT-40 heads, they are a lot cheaper, and actually a little better as well. They have slightly higher compression and a better (more efficient) plug angle. You can still use pedestal mount rockers as well, and they are a bolt on. I have them on my engine, and know they work great with no real effort other than the plug wires.

Vinnietbird said:

The "P" heads are really nice. I had mine ported with new springs and a good valve job. I also used my BBK shorty headers (unequal length). All I had to swap were the plug wires to a new set with 90degree plug boots. You don't have to buy new expensive headers to use them. It's a myth. The P heads are a great upgrade, and compared to the standard GT-40 heads, they are a lot cheaper, and actually a little better as well. They have slightly higher compression and a better (more efficient) plug angle. You can still use pedestal mount rockers as well, and they are a bolt on. I have them on my engine, and know they work great with no real effort other than the plug wires.

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P heads $300
valve job $200+ Port work unknown but you have to assume at least $200
Headers $200
Springs $150

No offense, but to the average guy this just isn't sensible for a set of heads that are maxed out and made of iron and cost that much.
And i assure you, it's not a myth that you need a set of p headers, unless of course you have tons of spare plug wires and like engine misses.

P heads are a cheap bolt on and go head, but they aren't worth spending any extra money on.

No, you don't need "P" headers, just 90 degree plug boots. It's not complicated. The heads can be found really cheap, and if the budget is really tight, just add new springs and use the P heads as they are. Still a great head. I have no misses or burnt wires. The engine has been for a year with no issues.

Vin, lets just say they do work (or at least for a while, nobody i know that drives alot has had it work for all that long), most good 90 wire sets are still around $100, not exactly cheap.
And the make your own wires, i'd say they are unreliable at best.

My point isn't that p's suck, my point is, don't invest too much in getting them on your car.