EGR removal

dmeads311

New Member
Nov 2, 2005
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I just ordered a upr egr eliminator plate for an 89 Gt 5.0 and i need help on what to remove along with the egr itself. i'm not very good with all the emissions BS and need some insight.
I also got a smog pump delete kit and that seems pretty easy to put on but does anyone have a few tips to make the install easier?
Thanks for any help.
 
I did the full project on my 89 GT, in the rear of the cylinder heads where the emission tubes hook up you have to remove the pipes, (1 on each head that go to a "Y") cut the end pieces off, reverse them and install on the opposite head you removed them from so they act as caps to block off the holes.I put a billet egr eliminator plate on that was about 1/2" thick, all it was ,was a place to connect the throttle linkage.BIG MISTAKE!!!!!! the stock linkage was hitting the heater tube located above my intake between the upper and lower plenum,I eliminated the heater tube but still,the linkage throttle cable was at a confangled placement and my throttle got stuck OPEN FULL BLAST! on multiple occasions causing me to have to turn the key off and roll to the side of the road, pop the hood and pull the linkage closed.Really scared me the first 3 times HAHA.I ordered the cap off plate that bolts directly to the back of the stock EGR plate and I was so happy....also when you eliminate the heater tube you will be running all over looking for hose fittings.In my opinion.....Get the cap off plate and leave the EGR plate. It may save you a world of headaches....I hope my Horror story helps you and good luck
 
ok thanks.....i did get the cheap block off plate for like $10. hey how much hp will eliminatin the smog pump giv me? i cant get an actual number from anyone..some friends say 2-3 and one says 10 but i would like to know
 
Like 1-2HP.

It does shave a little weight off though.


I did this to my car.

Delete Smog pump and A/C completely
Underdrive pulleys
Electric fan

and i noticed a HUGE difference after all that. Individually everything is like 1-3HP, but it all adds up
 
Yeah I am running one of the "simulators" here just to keep my CEL off .. it works well but if you pull codes it still throws a 33 but don't trigger CEL (which you actually WANT because it then disables the egr from advancing your timing and causing predetonation) I disconnected all smog/egr related gear and never had a tune just run the "simulator" and have never had any issues, A/F ratio has always been great and mileage is good.
 
They also sell an EGR simulator on ebay for about 20$ that will trick your computer into thinking your EGR is intact.


That's even worse!! Don't use those.



The bad thing about tricking the computer into thinking the EGR is working fine is it will pull timing and fuel thinking the inert gas is present in the engine, but it's not. As a result, you will run dangerously lean at part throttle.

It's better to not use the simulator at all, because at least the car will know it's not working.

It's like jumping into a 10-foot deep pool thinking it's filled with water.

The ONLY way to properly delete the EGR is with a custom tune. If you are not willing to go that far, don't even bother. These $10-20 little tricks are worthless. Don't use them :nono:
 
If one has certain KOER EGR faults, the computer is supposed to have the ability to shut off the EGR function (Per the GUFB doc).
 
We must have been typing those at the same time :D lol .. the good "simulators" don't actually simulate anything they still throw a code into your computer disabling the egr function but just don't trigger our CEL ... which is why I keep putting the word simulator in quotes :)
 
The only correct way to do this is with a custom tune or tweecer/pms/moates chip type of j3 service port system. Like all the others have said...the EGR helps you get better fuel economy and shuts down at WOT so there is ZERO power loss to be gained here. Also the computer triggers "WOT" fuel/timing logic at something like 3.7 Vtotal according to the TPS. So the point when the computer shuts off the EGR system is somewhere around 3/4 throttle according to your right foot. So the EGR is out of the equation before you even get to Full Throttle.
 
What is mine doing detrimental to my car since I have deleted it the way I have? .. A/F ratio is good throughout the RPM range and fuel economy is plenty good for a v8 if you ask me ... the fuel economy you actually save w/ the egr system is very marginal, its mainly intended as an emissions lowering system which it is very effective at. Not trying to flame by any means, I know the *Proper way of doing it is to get a tune. Just wondering if I'm missing something that might be hurting stuff.