EGR removal

[ninety15.0]

What you are missing is that the eec will advance timing based on the amount of inert gasses it thinks are in the combustion chamber. You have way too much timing for what is in there.

First off i think you are giving people the wrong impression. You need to read through the actual GUFx strategy book or look at the EGR tables. He does not have "way too much timing for what is in there." IF and thats a very big IF his simulator actualy does what is supposed to. The computer will just have a fault code present for the EGR system and it wont function at all. This means that the EGR vs timing advance functions/tables are not being used. I'm not sure if this is the case.

Either way the only way to do this properly is with a custom tune. good luck man

 

[strtrcr50]

While I agree with you that a custom tune is needed, I'm really curious how these good egr simulators are. And how they work. All the ones I've seen are just resistors. Can you post a link to the one you are referring to? As far as how much the egr table adds, I'd rather not add 3/4 of a point if I were on the edge. And that is assuming the EGR Multipliler isn't adding another point. 1 3/4 point advance I'd be very leary of. Especially in my case with boost. My real point is there is no reason to delete it. As the egr table shows, anything over 75% load and there is no egr added.

 

[Fox8950]

Pretty positive it was just this adaptive performance one off ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUST...ryZ33553QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) it stops the computer from logging a code 31 as it says in the auction which stops your CEL from coming on BUT it still logs a code 33 which disables the egr from making the eec advance timing. I am by NO means an eec expert so as to if this is actually doing what its supposed to ... couldn't tell ya. I just know that w/out it I get a CEL and code 31/33 and with it no CEL but still a code 33 if I pull em and A/F mixture has never givin me an issue .. mind you this is running my stuff advanced 16 deg already (off 93 gas of course) But as others before me said if you don't want to take any chances do it right and have it shut off with a tune, I'm just poor

 

[strtrcr50]

Being that I have an 88 converted over to mass air, I don't have a check engine light. I just have to pull codes to see if they are there. I'm wondering how this eliminator works. Is it that code 33 doesn't light up the c.e.l., yet disables all egr functions?

 

[Fox8950]

Yup exactly, for some reason the low voltage code (31) trips the CEL and EGR valve not functioning properly (33) doesn't but will still disable the egr advance tables from kickin in cause the eec knows egr isn't working.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Too much trickey.

Just leave the EGR functional. I don't understand the purpost of deleting it unless you have modifed the engine and eliminated the EGR plumbing down at the heads. In that case, you might as well delete it but to do so properly will require a tune. However, iwould think at that point, you have modified the engine to the point with a camshaft and other mods that you would want to get a tune.

If this engine is basically stock, then i don't see the point. It's like saying " I want to eliminate my Idle Air Control valve because it will A.) Clean up the engine bad or B.) It's giving me problems so instead of fixing it i want it gone. In the end, you pretty much should have just left it alone.

 

[Fox8950]

I'm on a tight budget with the only toy I get to keep . I snagged an explorer intake that didn't have the internal EGR plumbing (thank god for junkyard shopping or I wouldn't have a toy at all), that was my reasoning. Just tryin to lay out options not saying this is the best route.

 

[RustyFord]

I had my mechanic pull the codes for a CEL that comes on and off. He wanted to replace the EGR and a related valve for about 600.00. I bought the eliminator off of ebay only to have the car run like crap. I'm opting for replacing the EGR and not fooling with all of the mods that beget a project like that since my car is just a nice clean cruiser and not a racer. My question is, will an Auto Zone or Advanced Discount EGR do the trick? I know with 02 sensors Ford is the only way to go but I sure would like to avoid the high dollar units from FMC. I see them at the discount parts stores from 85-100 bucks. Any input here guys?

 

[strtrcr50]

I used an autozone egr valve, sensor, and vaccuum soleniod in the quest to get rid of codes. They worked ok.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I had my mechanic pull the codes for a CEL that comes on and off. He wanted to replace the EGR and a related valve for about 600.00. I bought the eliminator off of ebay only to have the car run like crap. I'm opting for replacing the EGR and not fooling with all of the mods that beget a project like that since my car is just a nice clean cruiser and not a racer. My question is, will an Auto Zone or Advanced Discount EGR do the trick? I know with 02 sensors Ford is the only way to go but I sure would like to avoid the high dollar units from FMC. I see them at the discount parts stores from 85-100 bucks. Any input here guys?

Yes, buy the parts store peices. They are simple mechanical components. No need to spend $600