SJF92

Member
May 19, 2020
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Maryland
2007 v6 model. The e brake light on the dash won’t go out. The master cylinder is full and not below the sensor. The parking brake switch in the center console works fine and makes repetitive ding noise when you try and drive it with the e-brake up. I pulled the center console apart and used a small piece of wire to close the circuit on the pigtail and that didn’t work, so I know it’s not the switch and may be the actual breaks themselves. Plenty of meat left on the pads. Pulling the e brake doesn’t engage the rear passenger mechanism, but that’s a mechanical issue and I just need to tighten and adjust the cable on that side (it actuates fine, I tested it by tapping it with a hammer to make sure it wasn’t seized). Not sure what it is. Damaged sensor maybe? Just did a break flush about about a month ago with fluid that was purchased a year ago but was sealed so I doubt water got in it. The master cylinder did run out of fluid during the flush but i filled it and flushed the air. Maybe bad fluid or I damaged the sensor? I jacked the car up yesterday and bled the rear passenger break to make sure there wasn’t any air in the lines and when I turned the car on the light was out but came on after maybe 30 seconds of letting the engine and everything adjust. Do I need to bleed the other three as well and put in new fluid again? Any advice on what to check next? All I keep finding online is 1)fluid below the sensor or 2) broken e-brake switch. Frustrating.

Update: I used a multimeter to check the continuity of the sensor on the master cylinder and the circuit is closed. Bad fluid or bad sensor. Guess I’ll flush the breaks again and find out.
 
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MustangIIMatt

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2007 v6 model. The e brake light on the dash won’t go out. The master cylinder is full and not below the sensor. The parking brake switch in the center console works fine and makes repetitive ding noise when you try and drive it with the e-brake up. I pulled the center console apart and used a small piece of wire to close the circuit on the pigtail and that didn’t work, so I know it’s not the switch and may be the actual breaks themselves. Plenty of meat left on the pads. Pulling the e brake doesn’t engage the rear passenger mechanism, but that’s a mechanical issue and I just need to tighten and adjust the cable on that side (it actuates fine, I tested it by tapping it with a hammer to make sure it wasn’t seized). Not sure what it is. Damaged sensor maybe? Just did a break flush about about a month ago with fluid that was purchased a year ago but was sealed so I doubt water got in it. The master cylinder did run out of fluid during the flush but i filled it and flushed the air. Maybe bad fluid or I damaged the sensor? I jacked the car up yesterday and bled the rear passenger break to make sure there wasn’t any air in the lines and when I turned the car on the light was out but came on after maybe 30 seconds of letting the engine and everything adjust. Do I need to bleed the other three as well and put in new fluid again? Any advice on what to check next? All I keep finding online is 1)fluid below the sensor or 2) broken e-brake switch. Frustrating.

Update: I used a multimeter to check the continuity of the sensor on the master cylinder and the circuit is closed. Bad fluid or bad sensor. Guess I’ll flush the breaks again and find out.
Have someone with a scan tool that can read ABS codes scan the vehicle. If that light's on, there's a code stored.