engine bay question
- Thread starter myslo50
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Those are even better to cover than the holes. just grind them down evnly as much as possible then put bondo.
o.k. my next question is, if i decide to fill the holes and hide some wiring, what color should i paint my engine bay? white to match the car, or black. while i got the engine out, i was thinking about painting it red to match my interior, or should i paint the motor black too? if anyone has a pic of a engine bay that is black and the car is a different color, please post it
Z06killinSBF
Member
SWEET!!!!!!
superstroke17
New Member
i got most of my wires hidden. the only harness i cant hide now is the one on the firewall. im not pulling the dashboard right now to hide it. ill make that a next winter project, i have to replace the heater core anyway so that will be the time to do it. its looking good so far. i bought a sandblaster and im gonna try it out tonight and blast the bay.
next question is should i use 16 or 22 guage steel to smooth some stuff with. i will be using 2 large sections on a angle so i dont want a lot of flex? dimensions are aboout 12"x10"
next question is should i use 16 or 22 guage steel to smooth some stuff with. i will be using 2 large sections on a angle so i dont want a lot of flex? dimensions are aboout 12"x10"
ALMOST STOCK
Founding Member
This guy used POR 15 epoxy to fill it. I PM'ed him yesterday and he said it has been 2 and half years since he did it and it's holding up perfectly.
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?p=6951830&highlight=epoxy#post6951830
I am thinking about going this route because I have no experience whatsoever with welding.
My process was going to be this:
-Por 15 epoxy all the holes
-sand epoxy smooth
-3 coats of all metal filler with sanding in between coats
-1 coat of rage extreme filler and sand w/ 80 grit
-prime then paint
I was also thinking about using the filler on the back sides of the holes also to help with adhesion and keep them from popping out or cracking or anything else.
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?p=6951830&highlight=epoxy#post6951830
I am thinking about going this route because I have no experience whatsoever with welding.
My process was going to be this:
-Por 15 epoxy all the holes
-sand epoxy smooth
-3 coats of all metal filler with sanding in between coats
-1 coat of rage extreme filler and sand w/ 80 grit
-prime then paint
I was also thinking about using the filler on the back sides of the holes also to help with adhesion and keep them from popping out or cracking or anything else.
ALMOST STOCK
Founding Member
You could possible get away with ..
Por 15 epoxy all the holes
1 coat of rage extreme filler and sand w/ 80 grit
2 coats of all metal filler with sanding in between coats
prime
1 coat of Ever Coat Finishing putty
Paint
Also
You could possible get away with ..
Por 15 epoxy all the holes
1 coat of rage extreme filler and sand w/ 80 grit
2 coats of all metal filler with sanding in between coats
prime
1 coat of Ever Coat Finishing putty
Paint
Also
I take it you think that would be a better process? I'm game for suggestions cause I'm totally new to body work.
ALMOST STOCK
Founding Member
I don't know if it's a better process or not since you're talking about using Por 15 and I welded all the holes up but it's closer to the process I used 8 yrs ago when I kind of started all this hiding wires and smooth out engine bays
.
In my case
Pull the engine.
Clean and degrease the entire engine bay.
Took a wire wheel on an electric drill and clean all the old paint off around near the hole you’re going to weld up.
Bought some 22 ga metal (20 ga metal is easier to find and will work also) to make some patch pieces just slightly smaller as the same diameter of the hole your weld up. Weld the patch piece into place. Weld and fill any hole larger than a dime in that manner (dime size and smaller hole you can weld closed by making a few passes to fill those small holes).
Ground down all the welds then use a body filler (all-metal ) to filled in any low spots in the engine bay due to either warped fenders, welding or grinding, spot welds, or any screw holes. When using any body filler always try keeping it to a minimum thickness by following instruction on the can or label. You’ll need to fill the low and uneven spots probably 2 or 3 times before you have enough buildup to sand the body filler smooth and flat. I used a long board and 4” sanding block to make mine as smooth and flat as I possibly could.
I found that if you buy the sand paper sheets for the body filler from any Auto Supply paint store your time spent sanding will be cut in half versus getting sheets of wet-dri course sand paper from your local hardware store, but that’s just me.
At this time you’ll also need to scuff the entire engine bay with a medium scuffing pad, and then clean the engine bay of any dust by either air or tack cloth.
Next prime:
Once the primer is dry you’ll need to sand the entire engine bay with 360 grit wet-dri sandpaper. After that you’ll need to remove any primer dust by either air or a tack rag.
Next apply finishing putty such as (Evercoat Glaze Coat) to fill in any small pin holes that the body filler or primer did not fill earlier. Sand the finishing putty with 360 or 400 grit wet-dri sandpaper, at this time if you see and small pin holes or recessed areas that you may have missed earlier or that didn’t fill properly fill with the finishing putty one more time.
Remove any finishing putty sanding dust with air and while doing that making sure at this time that you have completely eliminated all dust and any debris that could fly up during painting process.
Last and final time; tack rag the whole engine bay out, and now your ready to paint.
Believe me I'm no body man either!!
.In my case
Pull the engine.
Clean and degrease the entire engine bay.
Took a wire wheel on an electric drill and clean all the old paint off around near the hole you’re going to weld up.
Bought some 22 ga metal (20 ga metal is easier to find and will work also) to make some patch pieces just slightly smaller as the same diameter of the hole your weld up. Weld the patch piece into place. Weld and fill any hole larger than a dime in that manner (dime size and smaller hole you can weld closed by making a few passes to fill those small holes).
Ground down all the welds then use a body filler (all-metal ) to filled in any low spots in the engine bay due to either warped fenders, welding or grinding, spot welds, or any screw holes. When using any body filler always try keeping it to a minimum thickness by following instruction on the can or label. You’ll need to fill the low and uneven spots probably 2 or 3 times before you have enough buildup to sand the body filler smooth and flat. I used a long board and 4” sanding block to make mine as smooth and flat as I possibly could.
I found that if you buy the sand paper sheets for the body filler from any Auto Supply paint store your time spent sanding will be cut in half versus getting sheets of wet-dri course sand paper from your local hardware store, but that’s just me.
At this time you’ll also need to scuff the entire engine bay with a medium scuffing pad, and then clean the engine bay of any dust by either air or tack cloth.
Next prime:
Once the primer is dry you’ll need to sand the entire engine bay with 360 grit wet-dri sandpaper. After that you’ll need to remove any primer dust by either air or a tack rag.
Next apply finishing putty such as (Evercoat Glaze Coat) to fill in any small pin holes that the body filler or primer did not fill earlier. Sand the finishing putty with 360 or 400 grit wet-dri sandpaper, at this time if you see and small pin holes or recessed areas that you may have missed earlier or that didn’t fill properly fill with the finishing putty one more time.
Remove any finishing putty sanding dust with air and while doing that making sure at this time that you have completely eliminated all dust and any debris that could fly up during painting process.
Last and final time; tack rag the whole engine bay out, and now your ready to paint.
Believe me I'm no body man either!!
Thanks for the tips almost stock.
Does it need to be bare metal anywhere you use the All metal filer?? In that huge engine bay thread on Corral I see a lot guys use the all metal to smooth and fill creases where the sheet metal meets like just in front of the shock towers, and some guys smear the filler all over!
Does it need to be bare metal anywhere you use the All metal filer?? In that huge engine bay thread on Corral I see a lot guys use the all metal to smooth and fill creases where the sheet metal meets like just in front of the shock towers, and some guys smear the filler all over!
88mouse
New Member
ALMOST STOCK
Founding Member
This is the instructions from a can of all-metal.
View attachment 324355
I applied the all metal over any area that was low or showed any holes or dimples, which was almost the entire inner fender.
Take a close look at the inner fenders of the guy who used the Por 15 you can still see all the low spots left by the Por 15 and recessed area that didn't get filled and sanded properly, so if you apply all metal to all those areas you'll have almost the entire inner fender covered.
Yeah, I did notice the low spots and stuff in that guys pics - I was planning on being a little more thorough and have somebody weld plates over frame wells, the original intake hole, and box in the sway bar brackets.
Did you find a wire wheel on a drill was the best method of stripping all the paint?
ALMOST STOCK
Founding Member
I found it to be the best method and also the quickest method when it comes to removing paint in the engine bay.
a wire wheel works very well, im dong it with mine. but its a PITA, trying to fill the holes and sand everything. its a little more work than what i wanted to do, but i already started the project and now i got to finish it. im able to take the welder from my work to fill holes and to put metal plates in. i got to grind all the fiberglass off cause i did it ass backwords. ill tell u one thing, im no body man ill tell u that. it will be amazing if this turns out good.
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