Engine Engine rebuild suggestions

Yes, have a professional do it for you....
 
If I bought a set of used heads, unless I got them from a machine shop, that'd be what I'd do, now a trick a guy taught me was to take brake cleaner or some alcohol and spray on the back side of the valve, we did this with the head off, and looked on the combustion side for wetness.
Just spit-ball'n
 
I wasn’t talking about the preload. I mean completely back the rockers off so all of the valves are closed. This is where the springs are exerting all of the closed pressure they have on the valve. Pressure up each cylinder and listen for leaks at the intake and exhaust ports of the heads. If any of them leak then you have a problem. The used heads I bought had six valves that leaked at the seat and another three or four that leaked up through the guides. Several hundred dollars later they were good to go.

Moral of the story is take used heads to a shop and get them checked before you install them.
 
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Just a quick update. I did end up pulling all the rockers off and re-doing the leak down test. The air was still leaking out on the intakes on all cylinders.

Unfortunately, I don't have the money to take the heads to a shop. My wife would kill me as is if she knew how much this is costing me. Anyway, I took the head with the worst reading off, and after doing more research online about valve lapping, I re-lapped the valves. This time I used a drill (online opinions differ on the goods and bads of this approach). I also decided to spend $50 and get new intake valves. Alex's store online is great. They had the lowest price, fastest shipping and all the info I needed to choose the right valves. http://alexsparts.com

Anyway, I used an old valve from each cylinder and lapped it about 20 times in one direction, 20 times in the other. Then, I'd put the New valve in with spring and spacers, flip the head, spray wd40 over the valve face and cover the intake port with a towel and blow 100psi air in. At first, I saw big bubbles. I'd repeat the lapping. After a 2-3 rounds, the bubbles were small. I figure I shouldn't push my luck and I'd stop there. 1 cylinder even fully sealed.

To be sure I'm on the right path, I took the old head that I took of the mustang in disassembly, still covered in oil and carbon, and ran the same air test on 4 cylinders. 3 out of 4 had bubbles coming out. Again, this is from a running mustang. So, I figure the new heads should do ok. Maybe later I'll have some money for the AFR heads, or decide to get the gt40p ones to a shop, but for now, they should run.

For comparison, the new leak down test numbers are in black:


Here's and example of the old valve and seat after lapping:
 
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