Engine Engine rebuild suggestions

Alright, got the engine to the point where I'm ready to pull. Have a buddy with a cherry picker I need to visit this weekend to borrow it. Until then, still doing research on what I want to do. One thing that came up is Roller Rockers. So I'm planning to go with the GT40p heads I picked up. How important are the roller rockers? I know people say there's some horsepower there, but for $400, is it worth it?

Side note-- I remember when I was a teen and drove my mazda 323 hatchback. I spent $45 on K&N high flow air filter because it promised horsepower. Are roller rockers the same? :lol:
 
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One more thing-- looking at a push rod measuring tool-- it's about $18. In theory, my new push rod will be the same as the old, or withing 1-2 sizes. Each actual push rod is like $3. Makes more sense to me to buy 3 sizes of push rods and see which fits instead of learning to use the gauge and try and accurately measure it and transfer the size. Am I wrong?
 
Alright, I'm at a point where I'm ready to pull the engine. Need a little advice.
My transmission is out. Only the bell housing is on the block. I know people pull the engine by putting in bolts on the back of the heads. On the passenger side, I can get a bolt in-- but on the driver, there's a bolt there already, it's holding the grounding strap, and at the angle the engine is in I can't seem to unscrew it. My plan is to put the chains on the back using 2 bolts where the bell housing connects to the block. Once the engine is out, I can set it on the ground, carefully unscrew the back head bolt, reposition the chains and get it on the stand. Any issues with that plan?
 
Is this a normal looking clutch or is it cooked? The transmission didn't slip, but the clutch paddle was really hard to push in.

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I would say the clutch disc is not getting full engagement. Looks like the outer part of the clutch is wearing more than the inner part which could be caused by the pressure plate but. Flywheel seems to show this as well.

The clutch type will dictate clutch pedal effort and having a stock quadrant will also create more effort than an aftermarket one. The clutch cable can also start to cut into the clutch cable sheath which will then increase the effort.

The surface of the flywheel just good as it appears it was done with a grinder and not a lathe. Couple of small hot spots but nothing I would worry about.
 
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Moving along, was able to pull the old heads off yesterday. I wanted to ask what these passageways are that are blocked, and why you think they got blocked. I couldn't find anything on google.

You can see the carbon blocked holes at 12 o'clock, 11, 9.
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One more question. When I took off the lower intake manifold, the 2 first passages on the left side of the photo looked yellow. Is that the antifreeze mixing with oil? What would cause it?

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So they are not blocked. Scrape the head gasket off and you will find that there are no holes in the block at these locations. Gaskets are meant to fit multiple years of blocks that may or may not have these holes. What you are seeing is rust which is common on high mile motors. This is what the deck looks like with the gasket removed. You can see the dots around the cylinders that you are talking about but they are just stains.

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I would agree with you that oil has mixed with the coolant hence that color in the water passages.
 
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