Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
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If you're bending, look at something in the 5000 series (5052 iirc is fairly common, used for trailer walls) over 6000 series. 5000 will bend/form tighter before cracking. 6000 (like 6061) can still be bent, just needs to be a larger arc. No idea about weldability though
It's funny you mention that, I was looking at sheets of bakalite (phelonic) we removed from old switchgear today at work. It's just sitting there..... calling to me.A thought occurs to me:
phenolic material
It will work, but keep in mind that the threaded rod is low strength steel. However, if it screws into an aluminum part, it will be just as strong as the aluminum that it screws in to.
My main concern is them stretching, they will need to be torqued to the 25ftlbs for the lower manifold to head gasket. Then a sheet of 1/2 aluminum will be held in place with the remaining stud...
(I want to be able to remove the aluminum plate with out removing the lower manifold bolts.
Sounds like you may need a specific grade threaded rod, right?
Can that lowes all thread I hold my upper intake down with can't take 25 lbf of torque?
Torque yield, shear, stretch, single shear and double over under clamping force fascinate me, don't understand most for it but it is fascinating.
STUD, is that the fastener he's looking for, not all thread, but that girl that puts up with him won't be calling HIM a stud if he don't get to work on her hippie van.
Can that lowes all thread I hold my upper intake down with can't take 25 lbf of torque?
Torque yield, shear, stretch, single shear and double over under clamping force fascinate me, don't understand most for it but it is fascinating.
STUD, is that the fastener he's looking for, not all thread, but that girl that puts up with him won't be calling HIM a stud if he don't get to work on her hippie van.
This is what you need ....5/16" course threaded rod, 4140 steel, 3 foot length.
https://www.nutty.com/516-18-3-ft-B7-Thr-Rod-USS--4140-Alloy-Steel_p_13498.html
Cost is about $11 shipped to your door.
Don't like that, Google is you friend....
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=high+strength+threaded+rod&spf=1499002298170
Yesterday I was outside staring at my engine in the car. The wife came up and asked what I was doing.
"Trying to figure out how to mount a tb on the new blower"
Wife: "what?"
So I showed her what I was trying to do.
Wife: "your over thinking it, just reuse stuff you already have."
Me: ok.......
Wife "why can't you just use the elbow thingy from the intake on the car"
Me: ..... wanna go into town....
We went and got a carb spacer, and aluminum bits from the hardware store.
Then today I got to working on it. (I really wish I had a rig this mig is a pain)
It needs the final touches but overall will work and as long as I measured right everything will fit under the hood I have on the car.
we will see.
I will also note that she wanted me to put a fake carb on it to mess with people.
"Trying to figure out how to mount a tb on the new blower"
Wife: "what?"
So I showed her what I was trying to do.
Wife: "your over thinking it, just reuse stuff you already have."
Me: ok.......
Wife "why can't you just use the elbow thingy from the intake on the car"
Me: ..... wanna go into town....
We went and got a carb spacer, and aluminum bits from the hardware store.
Then today I got to working on it. (I really wish I had a rig this mig is a pain)
It needs the final touches but overall will work and as long as I measured right everything will fit under the hood I have on the car.
I will also note that she wanted me to put a fake carb on it to mess with people.
Another random thought occurs to me: 
Mock it up, measure it out, draw it (doesn't need to be perfect, just needs to show the measurements to include mating surface faces), then give one of these guys a visit:
https://www.google.com/search?q=orlando+3d+part+printing&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
Mock it up, measure it out, draw it (doesn't need to be perfect, just needs to show the measurements to include mating surface faces), then give one of these guys a visit:
https://www.google.com/search?q=orlando+3d+part+printing&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
That's a really neat idea. My only concern is cost, if I had a real budget I would have taken myself down and had the flanges waterjetted....Another random thought occurs to me:
Mock it up, measure it out, draw it (doesn't need to be perfect, just needs to show the measurements to include mating surface faces), then give one of these guys a visit:
https://www.google.com/search?q=orlando+3d+part+printing&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
Any idea what that printing costs?
I actually do not. We print parts at work pretty often and I have some idea what the machines cost but that's about it.
A lot of it depends the material type and quantity. You'd have to actually speak with them to see what the part would cost.
Hell, e-mail them some pics etc, and see what they say.
firstly, I wanna know why you are building an elbow w/ a carb plate adapter so that you can bolt another TB adapter to that?
Let me help you here.
* If,.......(Big if here)
The flange plate that bolts to the blower.........Can it be made of steel?
The plate that goes to you TB,.......................Can it be made of steel?
Remember this big giant adapter made out of steel?
All of this is made out of exhaust tubing and 16 ga plate....I bet that it doesn't weigh 20 pounds.
If I was doing your adapter, I'd do it the same way in your case...(why fck with aluminum welding when it's such a pain in the ass?) I'd plate that blower w/ 3/8" plate, then use (2) 2-2.5" mandrel bends (so you can accommodate the oval opening) to get it turned and merged into the 3" piece that I plated off as a TB mounting flange...
Then you simply "doll that btch up" w/ some wrinkle paint..
Ultimately, I had to add another 3" elbow and turn the TB 90* because it wouldn't work where I originally planned for it to go,..but it was as easy as adding another piece of STEEL exhaust tubing.
This concept is begging for you to take a version and make it work for you (provided that you can weld steel better than you can weld aluminum)...I believe that you can, so I think this is the path you should take.
Let me help you here.
* If,.......(Big if here)
The flange plate that bolts to the blower.........Can it be made of steel?
The plate that goes to you TB,.......................Can it be made of steel?
Remember this big giant adapter made out of steel?
All of this is made out of exhaust tubing and 16 ga plate....I bet that it doesn't weigh 20 pounds.
If I was doing your adapter, I'd do it the same way in your case...(why fck with aluminum welding when it's such a pain in the ass?) I'd plate that blower w/ 3/8" plate, then use (2) 2-2.5" mandrel bends (so you can accommodate the oval opening) to get it turned and merged into the 3" piece that I plated off as a TB mounting flange...
Then you simply "doll that btch up" w/ some wrinkle paint..
Ultimately, I had to add another 3" elbow and turn the TB 90* because it wouldn't work where I originally planned for it to go,..but it was as easy as adding another piece of STEEL exhaust tubing.
This concept is begging for you to take a version and make it work for you (provided that you can weld steel better than you can weld aluminum)...I believe that you can, so I think this is the path you should take.
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Mike when I did the m90 the adapters I made were done with steel. Heck I even have a dc tig I used to do them with. I went with aluminum this time because I have never been able to use the material in my fabrication projects, the part I made will be functional and pretty as soon as I doll it up. My welding skills are not as bad as they seem, I'm using a mig that is not meant for aluminum it's proving difficult but I will manage.
The reason for the adapter having the carb flange.... I may change things up and use one of these.
that's a 4150 throttle body. Pretty neat I think.
Also the need for the adapter to have so much volume stems from the m90 having an intake restriction. I made that adapter fairly large and it had a provision for 75mmtb... thing made 5inhg at wot. To avoid that same issue I am going with a large (very large) adapter this time. This is not like a turbo the m112 will want 800+cfm at full tilt, the gt500 had a massive inlet and throttlebody.
The reason for the adapter having the carb flange.... I may change things up and use one of these.
Also the need for the adapter to have so much volume stems from the m90 having an intake restriction. I made that adapter fairly large and it had a provision for 75mmtb... thing made 5inhg at wot. To avoid that same issue I am going with a large (very large) adapter this time. This is not like a turbo the m112 will want 800+cfm at full tilt, the gt500 had a massive inlet and throttlebody.
I have a 3 day weekend coming up so hopefully I will be able to get some stuff done. I am making myself a list of things I need to do. It's a really long list...
Edis8 from the JY., remove old intercooler stuff, pull the balancer to reseal it (need to order the 36 tooth wheel.....), flip the valve covers (after I weld baffles into them and an fittings), finish the inlet for the blower (bypass and vacuum fittings), drill and shape the passage on the aluminum plate the blower is bolted to, fuel injector bungs and rail mounts.
I'm sure I missed about a thousand other things that will go along with these items.
Edis8 from the JY., remove old intercooler stuff, pull the balancer to reseal it (need to order the 36 tooth wheel.....), flip the valve covers (after I weld baffles into them and an fittings), finish the inlet for the blower (bypass and vacuum fittings), drill and shape the passage on the aluminum plate the blower is bolted to, fuel injector bungs and rail mounts.
I'm sure I missed about a thousand other things that will go along with these items.