I have a 65mm ford explorer throttle body with a new 65mm EGR spacer in my garage. The TPS looks exactly the same as my mustang's and it has the oil breather, but backwards. I've read how to modify it in t-moss. I'm just wondering, will I feel a difference in my throttle response? It already has a Pro-m 75mm mass air with k&N filter. Also have 2.5 inch x-pipes, no cats, flowmasters, air silencer delete, smog pump delete, bosch +4 platinum spark plugs, ford racing 9mm ignition wires, msd cap and rotor. I still have stock headers, but will install after market shorties in a couple of months or so and advance my timing a bit. It's a 93' gt convertible AOD with 3.27 gears. :SNSign: Any helpful technical hints or opinions are welcomed.
Explorer 65mm Throttle body.
- Thread starter 50specialist
- Start date
You may, but i doubt it. It's onle of those mods that works with other mods for greater effect.
I have an explorer 65MM TB on my car
I have an explorer 65MM TB on my car
Is it on your 88' LX?If it is, is it speed density? I'm just curious about your situation because, if your 88 lx is a speed density 5.0, when you start adding mods to allow more airflow, it won't be as accurate as a maf 5.0. The maf will start noticing more air being sucked in resulting in calculation changes. In a speed density, it won't do much. I read in the internet that a stock programmed speed density 5.0 can start to run lean when you install bolt-ons like the throttle body. That's what I saw. :search:
LiquidGT
Member
It sounds like you got lucky and got the early explorer 65mm tb like I did, the early one isnt documented on the internet. The tps mounts the same as a mustang, use the mustang tps sensor or unless you want to rewire the explorer tps connector to work for the mustang. As for the elbow I just sprayed it with some lube and turned it around with vise grips.
Then do what Tmoss did to the linkage.
You're running Bosch +4 platnum plugs?!!
Then do what Tmoss did to the linkage.You're running Bosch +4 platnum plugs?!!
Yes it's still speed density.
I have a CAI, 65MM TB, Cobra Intake, headers, off-road h-pipe and pullies and e-fan. It runs great and I don't have any lean issues.
I have a MAF conversion but won't convert until i need to. Right now I don't have a need.
skunk21
Active Member
+1 on this advise. Mike gave some good choices, doing a search and you would find that most would agree with him. Fords are picky with plugs and run the best with oem style plugs. +4's are snake oil imo.
the larger TB will give you gains after you get rid of or modify the 2 biggest pigs in the air path. the lower intake and the heads. Once you change out the intake or port the lower the next road block is the stock E7's. porting the lower or and aftermarket intake with the TB will give you gains though until you address the heads. read some more on toms web site but the reason why you don't see gains from a TB swap w/o supporting mods..
stock TB 60mm flows 580-600cfms.
stock HO intake from 87-93 flows 580cfms.
a 65mm TB flows 625-650 cfms so you wont pack the cfms a 65mm can flow through an intake that can only flow 580 cfms, where as a cobra intake can flow 638 cfms so now you have gain over the stock set up but it hits the restriction of the heads.
+1
My car is speed density, and it runs mean with my current mods. Speed density cars are programmed to run something like 15% rich at WOT from the factory so they can benefit from some increase in airflow. I've also read that after several running cycles, speed density can adapt somewhat to new modifications, too.
That's going to be hard because I spended 70 bucks on them.
The car runs smoother and stronger than with the old accel spark plugs. Next tune-up, I will use the one's you told me to use.Ok. I just read stuff in the internet. I'm a newbie, so any advice is helpful. Thanks.
That's going to be hard because I spended 70 bucks on them.
Running smoother doesn't always equal running better. Typically plats run smoother because the smark patterns aren't as aggressive as copper. Also the +4's are notorious to shielding the air/fuel mixture which robs power.
Platnium plugs are great for luxury cars because they do run smooth and last a long time and don't require frequent changes.
However, when it comes to pure performance, copper is the way to go.
There are Silver plugs which are better, but expensive and none exist for the Mustang yet.
Iridiums are good for supercharged applications, not not N/A.
$10 for cheap motorcrafts is honestly all you need
Yes, SD can adapt fine. You can ever make cams work with them if you know what you are doing.
My SD car runs like a raped ape.
Overall I just want to fill the stock intake manifold and engine with as much air as possible and free-up it's breathing and exhaling. With headers, hopefully the throttle body will do something. Because it's a stock engine with regular bolt-ons, that's why I bought 65mm instead of 70mm and in the future 1 5/8 headers, instead of 1 3/4 headers that I saw being sold in a catalog.
I want my car to be a quick-responding and fun cruiser. Because it is a AOD GT convertible, it's more of a cruiser and a chick-picker-upper than a track car.
I've seen hooked-up convertibles, but I'd rather have a coupe for that. I'm going to take care of this one, keep it clean and in great shape. 89,000 original miles. It's an original reef blue over titanium, which adds to it's value. Reef blue's are not that common Anyways I don't streetrace and the closest 1/4 mile track is two hours away in West Palm Beach, FL at moroso. (Some people will say, "why buy a V8 mustang if your not going to race?) I just find other joys in my mustang, such as keeping it looking clean, new, drive around, and while another dude rev's a 4 cylinder ricer at a hot chick, I will rev my mustang V8, making him look like a dumba*s.
I want my car to be a quick-responding and fun cruiser. Because it is a AOD GT convertible, it's more of a cruiser and a chick-picker-upper than a track car.
I've seen hooked-up convertibles, but I'd rather have a coupe for that. I'm going to take care of this one, keep it clean and in great shape. 89,000 original miles. It's an original reef blue over titanium, which adds to it's value. Reef blue's are not that common Anyways I don't streetrace and the closest 1/4 mile track is two hours away in West Palm Beach, FL at moroso. (Some people will say, "why buy a V8 mustang if your not going to race?) I just find other joys in my mustang, such as keeping it looking clean, new, drive around, and while another dude rev's a 4 cylinder ricer at a hot chick, I will rev my mustang V8, making him look like a dumba*s.
skunk21
Active Member
all the tables and flow info is in the Mustang 5.0. technical reference & performance handbook, and I have read some stuff on searches about the restrictions from the lower intake and heads.
I've seen them port the lower intake of a stock 5.0 in t-moss. T-moss has everything from wiring schematics to performance upgrades. The E7TE heads are not that bad. Compared to the E6 turbo swirl heads of the 1986 5.0 EFI engine, they are pretty good. They are known as the Ford F-150 heads. E7 heads are good for mild bolt-ons.
But, if you improve the intake manifold system, want a lot more horsepower, and on a strict budget, then you port and polish your stock E7's. If you have the money, just get afternarket heads. :SNSign:
skunk21
Active Member
I've seen them port the lower intake of a stock 5.0 in t-moss. T-moss has everything from wiring schematics to performance upgrades. The E7TE heads are not that bad. Compared to the E6 turbo swirl heads of the 1986 5.0 EFI engine, they are pretty good. They are known as the Ford F-150 heads. E7 heads are good for mild bolt-ons.
I know this.I already went through this same process and have my lower and heads ported. I was going through the steps with you showing you how to go about getting some gains step by step with stock parts on a budjet. you will feel slight if any gains from a 65mm TB on a stock intake, you will feel gains on a ported lower on stock E7's and it will be a nice gain until you either port the E7's or swap heads but until then it is a nice jump. just like going to a gt40 or cobra is a nice gain over stock with stock E7's, it allows more cfm's of air flow.
the charts I gave you where to show that you can stick a 65mm TB on it but it will still only flow like a 60mm stock TB or slighty better because the stock intake can only flow so much in it's current state, port it and it will flow more cfm's to match the 65 mm TB or swap it for an intake that flows more cfms already. basically.
just a note if you ever do pull you intake use felpro 1250s-3 gaskets(they have steel in them), permatex right stuff 1/4 inch bead across the blocks lifter valley, some blue rtv around the coolant ports to help them seal and retorque the lower intake after a couple heat cycles and you should be good to go with nol eaks.
Cool.
So the upper stock intake is pretty good, it's just the lower intake thats a bit restrictive? Also, how much will a port job cost? I have a honer, so I can port the entrance of the upper manifold to match 65 mm."Create a smooth funnel". A replica cobra manifold kit cost 349 bucks. That's the cheapest I've seen, new, not used. Check out exhaust back pressure in t-moss. Now I now how aftermarket headers add horsepower. When the headers and exhaust have restrictions, there will be less vacuum action, which sucks the exhaust gases out of the combustion chamber, so there will be as much fresh oxygen as possible. I have high-flow exhaust, but still have the stock restrictive headers, which will not help my throttle body do it's job even more. I'm going to get aftermarket shorties in a couple of months, depending on when I get the money for it. After the headers, and I have the time and money, I will get the lower intake runners ported.:Word:
skunk21
Active Member
Cool.
yes the lower is more restictive. he gets right around $200 or so but well worth it. the chinese replicas still need to be cleaned up, they have casting left in them and alot of guys complain about the distributor relief not having enough clearance. an explorer intake is a good swap also.
the stock shorties are not really restictive in a sence. they picked up 7-10hp over the stock cast iron headers from the non H.O. 5ltrs. they do have some restrictive contours persay but you got rid of the biggest restictor already, the stock exhaust and the aod cars had a more restictive exhaust than the 5spd cars. swaping shorties is a common mod because it's easy vs long tubes, but the long tubes net a bigger gain. going to the 1 5/8 tubes gains a little in the mid range but drops low end torque due to loss in flow velocity vs increase in flow volume, just like going over 2.5 inch exhaust kills your torque. you need a certian amount of back pressure and velocity, which is a whole nother thing.
get headers that are ceramic coated inside and out, like ford racing(which uses jet hot) or jba(big $$) the coating on the inside is the big thing. the coating isn't just for rust proofing but also offers hp gains, by keeping the heat inside the headers it accelerates the pulsed-vacuum effect on headers, resulting in more effective scavenging of cylinders. The increased velocity of exhaust gases produced by higher exit inertia not only clears each cylinder more quickly; it also draws in the next fuel/air charge more efficiently, vs standard headers read about this on jet hot's web site.
http://www.jet-hot.com/
have fun on your project
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