Do you have any pics? And maybe a ballpark cost for the swap.
I don't have any pics, but I was going to do this swap, and changed my mind because:
* I am going with a stock-width 8.8 out of a '94 Mustang because I am using '03 Mach 1 wheels, and they have a lot of offset/backspacing.
* The Mustang rearend is much lighter than the Explorer rearend
* The Explorer rearend I got has a tone ring for the ABS attached to the differential, so it's a bit non-standard, and I wanted to have the coicke of adding ABS at a later date
Here is what I came up with as far as cost:
Used 1997 Explorer rear axle assy, 3.73 locker, 31-spline, disk brakes $213.50
New Right side axle shaft from E-Bay $93.02
Labor to shorten the left side axle tube $100.00
M-4210-C Axle rebuild kit, side, pinion, axle brgs, axle seals, shims, sleeve $99.95
M-4700-C Differential Rebuild Kit $101.99
Rebuilt Calipers, R & L, Loaded $167.58
Rotors, R & L $57.78
Adjustable brake proportioning valve $60.00
LPW Racing Ultimate Axle Girdle $120.00
Ford Racing M-4209-F373N 3.73:1 Ring & Pinion gearset $149.00
New Rear stock ride height, stock rate leaf springs $157.95
Urethane Leaf Spring Bushings for new springs $39.95
Cal-Track traction bar kit $383.15
New Master Cylinder for 4-wheel disk brakes $45.04
U-Bolts, Shackles, Front Bolts, Spring Perches & Shock Plates $119.25
FRPP Friction Modifier $6.26
TOTAL: $1,914.42
Of course, you could probably do it a little cheaper, if you don't rebuild the traction lok, use whatever existing calipers, pads & rotors came on it and don't install new rear springs with urethane bushings and a set of Cal-Tracks on it; that would lower the total cost by around $900, but you
WILL have to disassemble it to have the tube shortened (meaning you will need the crush sleeve, and while it's down, it's not a bad idea to replace the bearings).
And then there's the issue of the pinion flange--the Explorer comes with a large round flange, so you will either have to replace that with a standard one, or you will have to purchase an adapter to mate your existing rear U-Joint to the flat round flange. You may also have to have your driveshaft resized as well . . .
You also might not be able to find as good a deal I did (I'll be selling the one I have soon, hopefully for what I have invested in it thus far).