Not much really but it would be better than throw'n money away on those bare castings, the whole point is to save up for better stuff, look, I've been agonizing over installing a set of 'p' heads or going with aluminium heads, I using the 'p' heads because they are basically new, I had them on another engine so I know how to make the spark plug angle problem work and I know I'll not be racing hemi chargers with it. But it will be 'fun'.1.7 rockers will work for a bit more fun?? Reading about it some say its good, others say way too minor. How much fun karthief?
280 is not bad at all - that's about 100HP more than stock. On a fox, that could get you into trouble in a hurry.I’d hold out for a complete set of 3 bar heads. The 4 bar (GT-40P’s) have a different spark angle that can make header and plug wire fit problematic.
As I said before, just did a GT-40, explorer intake, b cam combo on a friends car. It’s a great, proven combination. Will it make the same power as an aluminum head? Of course not. But it’s a proven 280 rwhp combo. That’s a lot of fun in a foxbody.
I’m not opposed to using the right set of GT40 heads of that will help me save some cash and throw me back in the seat a little more.Where are you at? I know of at least one set of explorer heads that need no work (already worked over) you could pickup.
In reality those bare heads are parking stops, cores. Only reason to use explorer heads would be they need no work and almost free.
If it's a cruiser and just for fun stick some 1.7 roller rocker on the e7s and save your money for some aluminium heads.
What's your ultimate goal?
I run the TFS170's just because it's a reputable head, and the canted head design would work with the stock pistons. I did have to change springs to work with my cam, so something to consider based on your cam choice. They pop up used but the issue with used heads is you should really have them gone through. At that point, you are at the price of a new set. Some will even argue that a set of heads out of the box also need to be gone through.
Once you go down the rabbithole...
People keep mentioning Pro Max heads. But nobody includes any proof of value.
Kind of mind boggling that people even suggest them when literally nobody knows how good they really are.
You're right though, I have no first hand experience with them. But if their numbers hold true they don't seem like they'd be horrible for <$1000. It's enough for me to give them a shot and I think that anyone on a budget might want to consider them as well. Financially, <$1000 compared to >$1300 for TF's seems to be worth the look. There are other options as well. FloTeks, for example, have been run in a magazine comparison and had pretty good marks there. Again, that link is also in that thread. You can get Floteks for <$1000 as well, but on paper they don't perform as well as the Pro Maxx heads. And since hardly anyone has spoken up about them to give them a "yay" or a "nay" most everything said about them is hearsay, so all we have to go from is what they've advertised.I'm more than happy with my promaxx heads. The local guy around here that ports everyones heads (not just some guy, he's a pro) looked them over and thought they were very good. Castings look much better than edelebrock heads. I was very impressed. Check your springs if you get them as we thought they were a bit light. They are performing good for me on a stock bottom end with a blower at around 10psi. I will be doing a new 347 bottom end this winter. I may have them ported a bit, although the guy said they dont need much work to improve whats already there
Ill read through that tonight @LILCBRA, thanks for attaching that. I need to read up on this stuff a little more. Way too many variables.Have you checked out that thread I linked? Page 5 contains a video about selecting the proper cam shaft. Since it seems you've already selected a cam, the video can still be relevant concerning heads, you'll want to match flow numbers to your cam. That cam has an advertised max lift of roughly .500, so you'll want good flow at that lift number on both sides. And again, as referenced in that thread and the heads I'm eye balling, Pro Maxx heads can be had for <$1k and flow well at those numbers. There is also someone here on the forums who has vouched for them so far. But those Pro Maxx's have been on sale in the recent past and could be had for around $800. I'm hoping they'll have a Black Friday special and drop to that price again now that I have the disposable income.
I have Trick Flow Twisted Wedges on my Cobra II with a cam that's meant more for low end torque (as per the manufacturer's description) and they perform well (as you'd expect from Trick Flow....). But you're going to spend more for them. The Pro Maxx is advertised to flow the same on the intake side at .500 and slightly better on the exhaust at .500 than the TW's. They are advertised to flow better than Edelbrocks as well. Just something to chew on.
This has kinda been my whole plan going along. I don’t mind the old school approach. Back in the day that’s what all the guys I’ve been around did. I don’t think there is anything wrong with that, plus, it won’t break the bank, too much. You said it best @General karthief, scootin around town and having fun with some added power is what I’m looking for. Is it me, why is that combo frowned upon these days? Probably because there is always something better, right?The gt40/explorer intake + a letter cam is old school but it works for scoot'n around town and having fun, add a 355 gear and it's a dependable combo that's fun to drive.
Engine masters has a dyno test on a sbf comparing iron vrs aluminium heads, it shows where the gains are and in reality on a street car/ mild build it's not a huge difference.
I look at torque numbers, that's what rule the streets,
I don’t mind the old school approach. ...... Is it me, why is that combo frowned upon these days? Probably because there is always something better, right?
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