Thanks for the more detailed explanation. Going to test the horns in the morning.
So I was just looking through the thread and noticed this pic again....and just realized I don’t understand how the horn bracket is mounted to the car exactly. There appear to be no screws in these holes. Is the bracket supposed to welded to the frame or are the screws just not visible in this photo?
Thanks for confirming. I don’t have any sort of welding tools (or experience) so I would have to have that done by someone else.
I did see a video with a fox body build last night where it appears as though the car’s horns are just directly attached to the apron with no bracket. Any idea if I could get away with something similar or should I just pay to have the bracket welded back in?
It’s a screen shot so might be hard to see but it’s from this video (you can see the horns around the 2:15 mark):
Thanks. Good to know. Going to test the horns with the battery in a little bit. The saga continues, lol.
It wasn’t too bad actually...I was prepared to scream though, lol.
So my buddy and I tried the horns again, using both connections with them grounded, and it didn’t work. It seems maybe the connectors (not sure exactly what they are called, pic below) that the horns “plug” into could be the issue. Is there a similar way to test that those are functional, with a battery or something?
I still don’t have a multi-meter tool yet but will try to get one this coming week.
I absolutely hate putting those inner wheel wells in and out!
I will get an MM before the weekend when I can get back to the car. So when you say I need to check for power at that wire, does it need to be at the piece that connects to the horn or can it be anywhere on the wire?
If the wiring is damaged, any idea if I can buy just the replacement wire without having to get the whole horn kit?
On the horn relay note - I was getting a clicking when I pressed the horn button after replacing the pad. Should I assume the clicking is not any sort of confirmation the relay is functional, and may still need to be replaced?
Another thing that hasn't come up yet that I wanted to ask about, is it possible the wiring that connects behind the horn button could also be an issue?
Theoretically you "could" check for power anywhere along the wire but you really should check at the connector.
If there is no power there trace the wire back and look for breaks/damage.
If you have a cut or something in the wire you could splice in a new piece of SAME gauge wire with solder and shrink wrap.
Clicking is usually a good sign of a functioning relay.
Circuit could be damaged anywhere.
Keep at it you'll figure it out !